Removing Wheels

C

Chuckmotor

New member
Ok, it's time to start over on the black BMW 325i. Here are my conditions: it's a 1992 car with lots of little scratches and pretty good oxidation. I'm going to stick to using some Meguiar's waxes for now. I've actually been very very pleased with the results I've gotten from the #26 (and I have some unused Gold Class Liquid Wax, too). When I run out in the weeks to come, I will go with Zaino, I think... but for now---



-Dawn wash

-Gold Class wash

-Clay bar

(never used clay bar-- should I wash after using it?)

-Paint cleaner-- haven't bought it yet, so I need some ideas. Preferably something I can get at a car store or car paint store, such as Meguiar's or 3M. Is the paint cleaner neccessary?

-FI-II-- using PC

-Meguiar's #7 (I have this already, it's worked well for me, so I'd like to use it. But if it will not be good enough to follow the FI-II, then I will need some suggestions for a FI-II follow-up.)

-Meguiar's #26 or Gold Class liquid (Haven't decided yet. I have them both. What do you think?)



Do I need any washings between using these products?



I would really like to find some Forever Black for the trim. Just like the tire dressing failures, everything I put on the trim washes away, drips, and looks crummy. Forever Black is supposed to last for months and months because it's permanent. Also, can I get P21S locally? I want the wheel cleaner.
 
No to washing after the clay.



No to washing after any of the other applications as long as the car is not outside. I will wipe my car with a MF towel if it sits during the week in my garage prior to any add'l coats.



I like Pinn Paint Cleanser. I'm not sure after claying you still need to do it, I would base it on how the paint felt after the claying.



Have used and liked #26, but not GCL.
 
Honestly, Chuck - I'd take advantage of that CMA discount and get myself some Klasse.



CMA's in Florida, so you should get it in a day with ground shipping (CMA is great with shipping - they've usually sent it within a day).



Pick yourself up some AIO and SG. AIO's the paint cleaner you were looking for, and SG will fit in right before the #26 (I've used #26 and SG - worked pretty darn good! Just got some P21S wax, and it worked even better! I'm not dumping the #26 I have though).



Use the AIO and SG on the rims as well, and the brake dust will fly right off! That alone is worth the price - because German brake dust (on my MB at least) would be impossible if not for the Klasse. I can literally wipe it off with a wet rag, if it hasn't set in for a month.
 
I'd go with the Gold Class wash <em class='bbc'>after[/i] the clay. I use the clay with diluted Z7, and I wash after to make sure I've removed any residue.

Oh, and go with the Zaino now, not later. You won't regret it.:D
 
For your black car, I would really lean towards giving Klasse a try as well. It will look absolutely killer on black.
 
How many of you remove the wheels when doing a detail to really get the inside of the wheels clean?

I usually don't, but I am curious how many of you do.
 
I never have. My barrels are 95% and its a DD so i am kool with that. The wheel woolies have made cleaning the barrels much easier. I would like to take them off 1x per year but that would involve a lift or jack neither of which I feel like dealing with! 95% is good enough for my barrels.
 

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The only time I have done is when I have removed the tires to rotate them (when I do it myself). I also clean the inside of the wheel too.
 
bmw5541 said:
How many of you remove the wheels when doing a detail to really get the inside of the wheels clean?

I usually don't, but I am curious how many of you do.
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I think you're actually curious about how many Kahuna points you just got :biggrin:
 
I do take them off if I'm paid to do it.

Take them off, clean+seal, put them back at the exact lug nut location and re tighten them with a torque wrench.
 
TimG said:
I do take them off if I'm paid to do it.

Take them off, clean+seal, put them back at the exact lug nut location and re tighten them with a torque wrench.
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After my experience this week with lug nuts that have factory "caps" on them, I would have be explicitly told to remove them and clean them at the customers request. At least until I get over what a PITA stockers can be :banghead:
 
I don't, simply for the reason that I don't have a way of knowing what the torque specs are for all the vehicles and wheels out there.

Now, if a client wants to take the wheels off before I get there, and put them back on themselves, that's an entirely different situation.
 
CH.Detailing said:
I don't, simply for the reason that I don't have a way of knowing what the torque specs are for all the vehicles and wheels out there.

Now, if a client wants to take the wheels off before I get there, and put them back on themselves, that's an entirely different situation.
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There are wheel & tire trade books with torque specs/PCD/offsets/stock overall tire & wheel diameter for all passenger vehicles and trucks. Also the vehicles manuel will have this information(except Ferrari & Maserati)plus tirerack has a way to calculate torque based upon lug diameter ie:12x 2.5 for example which will give minimum thread engagement etc..
 
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