removing scuff marks from rear bumper
- Thread starter jlwca
- Start date
Brad B
New member
"Feeling" them is probably the tipoff that they are likely not to come completely out with buffing. You need to try any mild abrasive at your disposal. I would first use 3M Finesse It then if that did not work advance to a more aggressive 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound.
What products do you have available to you?
What products do you have available to you?
I don't really have anything aside from wax, but will look into and purchase whatever you recommend.
With the 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound, is there a special way to apply that stuff?
Being a novice at this stuff, I wouldn't wanna do any damage or anything.
Which should I purchase?
Thanks for the info
With the 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound, is there a special way to apply that stuff?
Being a novice at this stuff, I wouldn't wanna do any damage or anything.
Which should I purchase?
Thanks for the info
Brad B
New member
First, are you doing this by hand or buffer?
The goal is to "flatten" the surface again. You want to use the least agressive abrasive to do the job. Fine Cut Rubbing Compound , FCRB, is probobably going to be the best place to start. Unfortunately, it can also be a dangerous product because if you buff too long in one spot you can easily take off too much paint. ( Any abrasive product can do so but the MORE abrasive they are the FASTER they do so. EXPERIENCE teaches you how to know when to stop and how hard to rub.)
And also, the scuff you have may have already taken off so much paint that it may be dangerously thin in that spot so that no matter what you use that when you flatten the surface to get it smooth again you may risk going through what paint surface is left. Those are the risks.
The goal is to "flatten" the surface again. You want to use the least agressive abrasive to do the job. Fine Cut Rubbing Compound , FCRB, is probobably going to be the best place to start. Unfortunately, it can also be a dangerous product because if you buff too long in one spot you can easily take off too much paint. ( Any abrasive product can do so but the MORE abrasive they are the FASTER they do so. EXPERIENCE teaches you how to know when to stop and how hard to rub.)
And also, the scuff you have may have already taken off so much paint that it may be dangerously thin in that spot so that no matter what you use that when you flatten the surface to get it smooth again you may risk going through what paint surface is left. Those are the risks.
Interesting! I'll be doing this by hand the spot is about 2inches by 2inches I'd say at the very max.
Do you really think that'll work? I'm actually worried about taking some of the paint of and then it would really look like you know what.
You're obviously very knowledgeable in this category and I would feel comfortable taking your advice.
Do you really think that'll work? I'm actually worried about taking some of the paint of and then it would really look like you know what.
You're obviously very knowledgeable in this category and I would feel comfortable taking your advice.
Brad B
New member
You first want to start with the LEAST aggressive abrasive that will do the job. FCRB is pretty abrasive but I am betting that you would need that to start. You will likely need Finesse It II (FI) to complete the job so perhaps to play it safe you may want to get FI to start with since it's safer to experiment with and you can also use it for a host of other things on your car. Swirl removal, light scratches, etc.
I normally take care of 99% of the paint defects with just two products, 3M FI and 3M Swirl Mark Remover (SMR) which is one step finer.
You have unfortunately encountered the worst scenario that requires the third product which is the FCRB for the tough stuff. You might want to start with the FI, see what you can accomplish with that first. You may get really far. It just may take more rubbing and more time since it's a finer abrasive.
Use a pure foam applicator, not a terry covered one. Those do not produce as good of results. Use back and forth motions only. Go from different directions with firm pressure and PLENTY of material on the applicator. Repeat as often as necessary but keep an eye on the tiny scratches in the clearcoat. Look for ones that are faint and obviously NOT all the way through the clear. Use these as barometers. They should be reducing in size and should be the ones you can remove. The ones you can "feel" cannot be removed but can be reduced.
I normally take care of 99% of the paint defects with just two products, 3M FI and 3M Swirl Mark Remover (SMR) which is one step finer.
You have unfortunately encountered the worst scenario that requires the third product which is the FCRB for the tough stuff. You might want to start with the FI, see what you can accomplish with that first. You may get really far. It just may take more rubbing and more time since it's a finer abrasive.
Use a pure foam applicator, not a terry covered one. Those do not produce as good of results. Use back and forth motions only. Go from different directions with firm pressure and PLENTY of material on the applicator. Repeat as often as necessary but keep an eye on the tiny scratches in the clearcoat. Look for ones that are faint and obviously NOT all the way through the clear. Use these as barometers. They should be reducing in size and should be the ones you can remove. The ones you can "feel" cannot be removed but can be reduced.
Brad B
New member
Just go to WalMart and ask the Greeter for FCRB! 
lol! (And after they slap you silly check these urls...)
http://www.properautocare.com/3mperrubcom.html
http://www.properautocare.com/3mfiniimacpo.html
http://www.properautocare.com/3mperpolforl.html
These can be had locally at many pro auto paint suppliers that carry 3M products. You have to call around. Yellow Pages.:up
lol! (And after they slap you silly check these urls...)http://www.properautocare.com/3mperrubcom.html
http://www.properautocare.com/3mfiniimacpo.html
http://www.properautocare.com/3mperpolforl.html
These can be had locally at many pro auto paint suppliers that carry 3M products. You have to call around. Yellow Pages.:up
atravis149
New member
Given the damage is confined to such a small area (2"x2"), another product that I hear works pretty well is Meguiar's Scratch X. It is sold in a small tube and seems to have a wide retail distribution. It is generally available at local car parts stores.
I use the 3 3M products Brad B has suggested. They work well but would agree they are harder to find and you may have to buy 32 oz bottles. Brad's tips are right on.
I use the 3 3M products Brad B has suggested. They work well but would agree they are harder to find and you may have to buy 32 oz bottles. Brad's tips are right on.
Thanks again guys!
Last question on this subject before I drive you guys nuts
Ok, so out of the 4 including the Mcguires X that you recommended, keep in mind that I'm a novice at this and don't wanna strop off my paint(lol), also that I'll be doing it by hand.
Which of the four would you get.
After I apply whatever you recommend, is it a good idea to wax the area?
Drumrolllllll please
Last question on this subject before I drive you guys nuts
Ok, so out of the 4 including the Mcguires X that you recommended, keep in mind that I'm a novice at this and don't wanna strop off my paint(lol), also that I'll be doing it by hand.
Which of the four would you get.
After I apply whatever you recommend, is it a good idea to wax the area?
Drumrolllllll please
Brad B
New member
Absolutely wax afterwards.
As far as which to get. 3M makes the better quality abrasives, no question. But they may be harder for you to find and they come in larger bottles. That's David's point.
As far as which to get, read the descriptions and the what we have discussed and choose. You can't go wrong.
As far as which to get. 3M makes the better quality abrasives, no question. But they may be harder for you to find and they come in larger bottles. That's David's point.
As far as which to get, read the descriptions and the what we have discussed and choose. You can't go wrong.