refinishing headlamps - what pad and compound to use after wetsanding?

P

paradigmGT

New member
I have refinished headlamps for years now, by using 400/800/1200/1500/2000 grit wetsanding, then finishing off with a wool pad on a drill with a 3M compound. I have burnt lenses many times with this wool pad and was never too good at it.



Can anyone advise the proper finishing compound and proper pads to use? I recently got a porter cable DA that I would use instead of a drill. Also is there any sealant I should use after compounding?



Thanks
 
Opti-Coat is a fair substitute for a true headlamp coating.





Two important things to remember when polishing plastic.



1. It is often much softer than paint so it takes less pressure to correct. Let the machine do the work and don't apply too much pressure. Check frequently.



2. Plastic melts at a much lower temp. than paint. Friction created by polishing/compounding can quickly heat it... thus the reason you have burned them in the past. Also, once the plastic starts to heat up it does not dissipate the heat easily. Plastic insulates, so a hot spot will remain localized. When polishing paint that is on a metal surface the metal conducts the heat and allows it to dissipate more easily. Polishing painted plastic and/or fiberglass panels such as bumpers poses the same problem. Slower speeds and constant movement is crucial to avoid damaging these materials.
 
I used the following process on my wife's 2003 Jetta.

They look new.

From Auto Geek Forum:

"My process is basically already well known:



Wetsand-400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000

Buff-System one polish or equivalent with a high speed drill with small wool pad attachment

But here is the "new" part......

UV Sealer-Helmsman Spar Urethane(Indoor/Outdoor)Clear Gloss mixed with Mineral Spirits(1part urethane to 1 part mineral spirits).



After you buff the lights out with your polisher, you wipe down the headlight with denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol (to eliminate any compound residue).

Mix the urethane and mineral spirits in a plastic disposable cup. Remember the dilution ration- 1 part to 1 part.

Then, take a blue 'scott' shop rag and fold it up into a 1 inch x 1 inch square. Then dip the rag into the mixture and wipe it on the headlight. Don’t use too much or it might run, but start at the top of the light and work side to side. It took me a few times to get my method down, so if you mess up with application, wipe it off with mineral spirits and start over.

This UV sealant dries in 10-20 mins usually and is far superior to any average detail product(paint sealant, wax etc.......)

Its like a clear cote, but you don’t spray it, not as messy.

Longevity-The original "creator" of this method told me that he did a headlight restoration with this method about 2 years ago for a customer, and he said it still looks good."
 
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