Red paint - no clearcoat

imported_FJF

New member
I recently purchased a new car with non-clearcoated red paint. I've only had the car for about a month and I'm about to detail it for the first time. Truthfully, I didn't know anything about detailing until a few weeks ago, when I began to search the web and read almost every guide I came across. Of course, none of that can possibly replace actual experience and that's why I'm here asking for guidance.



My plan is to start with a clay bar, then glaze the finish with Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, then wax with One Grand Blitz or P21S (I have both). I thought that I might wax with Blitz at first and after it cures rewax with P21S. I decided not to use a polish, as the paint is basically brand new.



Does this sound like a solid plan?
 
i think the reason why you recieved little response is, There are no photo's. It is difficult to assess a situation or a plan of attack with out a comprehensive photo base.



So you have a red single stage, Okay.. go for it.



where if we saw a photo of a red in a good state but with some minor points we could hlp address those.



as it stands now, i wish you the best of luck.
 
Just to inform you KSG is not a glaze for a sealant. You want to make sure the paint's condition is where you want it (no swirls defects, etc.) before you apply KSG. Make sure you let the KSG cure before applying the Blitx Wax or P21S. What kind of car is it?
 
Thank you for the reply. The car is just about a month old. It's been garaged other than the time it spent on the road and the paint looks almost exactly like it did when I drove it home from the dealer. I've washed it twice and this will be its first wax. There are no swirl marks that I can see and no discoloration.



Please excuse the noob question, but what kind of photo should I upload? The paint has no apparent problems. I'd love some guidance, but I'm really not sure what I need to post in order to get it.
 
01bluecls said:
Just to inform you KSG is not a glaze for a sealant. You want to make sure the paint's condition is where you want it (no swirls defects, etc.) before you apply KSG. Make sure you let the KSG cure before applying the Blitx Wax or P21S. What kind of car is it?



I appreciate the kind advice. Approximately how long should I let KSG cure?



As the paint has no apparent defects, I assume it would be best to skip a polishing/cleaning step. Or, would the finish still benefit from a light polish?



<blush> I should have mentioned the exact car. It's a '06 Mitsubishi Evolution RS
 
After claying and polishing to remove any defects, I would use either AIO or Prime/Prime Strong which will put down an acrylic base (similar to clearcoat), then final wax or SG.
 
kpounds said:
After claying and polishing to remove any defects, I would use either AIO or Prime/Prime Strong which will put down an acrylic base (similar to clearcoat), then final wax or SG.



It took me a little while to find out what Prime/Prime Strong were. Figures JW isn't shipping orders until the 24th. I'm going to have to do without, but I'll pick some up for next time.



Having read all the clay bar warnings, I'm becoming a little nervous about using it without practice. I can pick up some S100 Shine Enhancing Cleanser at the HD dealer. Is that something that I should consider using instead of the clay bar?



Too, how long should KSG cure before I wax? Are we talking about 12-24 hours or longer?
 
FJF said:
Too, how long should KSG cure before I wax? Are we talking about 12-24 hours or longer?

Newbie myself and I can't help with the other questions. However, the recommended curing time for SG is at least 24 hours. I'll be using the Klasse AIO and SG on my car so I've been reading up on them.
 
Well KSG cure times are gonna vary. Lot depends on the dewpoint, humidity, and temperature in your area. After you applied KSG to the finish in a thin layer, you should let it sit for prolly an half hour to full hour or more (like I said depending on your environmental conditions.) before you remove the hazed KSG. KSG can layer, so after the removal of the first coat I would recommend applying another coat right after, wiat an hour or so then remove. After both coats are removed, wait 24 hours roughly then you can apply P21S or whatever wax you decide on. This ensure that KSG is bonded to the paint and wont "move around or deteriate from wiping waxes on in it since waxes have "very SLIGHT" amount of solvent in them. As long as the paint is clean of contaminants, AIO since its so new is prolly not needed. I have found when I have used AIO under Zaino, it hurt the durability more than if I had applied Zaino strictly to the paint. Hope this helps
 
Guys, thank you for the pointers. That's exactly what I was looking for. I broke down last night and purchased a PC 7424, which I hope will make my life easier. As I've never used one, I'll most likely practice on one of our other cars before tackling the Evo. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Back
Top