Re: Most effective polishes

Get the tuf buf wool pads for the pc/gg. Their cutting abilities are superior to foam. Use wool to eliminate rids/other imperfections. Don't worry about how the paint looks at this time. Now get your orange pad out and "clean up" after the wool pad. Take your time to get the finish as good as possible. After the orange "I" would do a polishing step before using a finishing pad with your choice of finishing polish. These steps will get the paint perfect.



Please remember that proper "polishing" takes time. The last c5 black took 27 hours for me, although the paint was pretty bad. I am sure yours is no exception.



Good luck.



Post some pictures of your car's condition.
 
Bill D said:
Remember to use a isopropyl alcohol:water mix to wipe the paint between polishing steps to check on your progress so you know the true condition of the paint as you go along.
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Bill - What ratio's are you using? I'll definitely be using this step the next time around.



tdekany said:
Get the tuf buf wool pads for the pc/gg. Their cutting abilities are superior to foam. Use wool to eliminate rids/other imperfections. Don't worry about how the paint looks at this time. Now get your orange pad out and "clean up" after the wool pad. Take your time to get the finish as good as possible. After the orange "I" would do a polishing step before using a finishing pad with your choice of finishing polish. These steps will get the paint perfect.



Please remember that proper "polishing" takes time. The last c5 black took 27 hours for me, although the paint was pretty bad. I am sure yours is no exception.



Good luck.



Post some pictures of your car's condition.
Click to expand...



I was originally shying away from the wool pads because of the slight scratches it would leave...especially on black, but after reading your post, it certainly makes sense. The heavy cut would have to be cleaned up away. I could then follow that up with M205 and my orange pad afterwards, or use my 3M polish/cleaner that's specially designed for black cars.. I forgot the name of it. I can't send pics right now as I'm away at work abroad. Even though I have a long way to go, the paint looks noticably better. I always have to get people to look at the car from sharp angles to find the damage. I'm not sure when I'll be back stateside for round 2..it'll probably be a few more months. I usually try and learn as much as I can about products, systems and techniques while I'm abroad and buy what I plan to use before I get home...and then get to work. I'll be sure to post some before and after pics, along with a list of supplies and methods used.
 
The IPA to water ratio isn't super crucial but I personally buy 91% since that's the highest you can get, and then eye ball it to make an approximate 50:50 mix. I keep it pre mixed in a gallon jug so I can easily refill my spray bottle on the fly.
 
Don't jump from wool to 205 - use 105 and orange.



On another note, if you want to see how your paint looks, use a paint cleaner instead of IPA. Many time IPA can't do what a quality pre cleaner can like Ez Creme or Lime Prime can.



CRUSHAH said:
Bill - What ratio's are you using? I'll definitely be using this step the next time around.







I was originally shying away from the wool pads because of the slight scratches it would leave...especially on black, but after reading your post, it certainly makes sense. The heavy cut would have to be cleaned up away. I could then follow that up with M205 and my orange pad afterwards, or use my 3M polish/cleaner that's specially designed for black cars.. I forgot the name of it. I can't send pics right now as I'm away at work abroad. Even though I have a long way to go, the paint looks noticably better. I always have to get people to look at the car from sharp angles to find the damage. I'm not sure when I'll be back stateside for round 2..it'll probably be a few more months. I usually try and learn as much as I can about products, systems and techniques while I'm abroad and buy what I plan to use before I get home...and then get to work. I'll be sure to post some before and after pics, along with a list of supplies and methods used.
Click to expand...
 
RaskyR1 said:
Your best bet on the DA for hard Corvette clear is to get some Surbuf or Meguiars MF cutting pads. Which to use depends on how deep the defects are, but the Surbuf will offer more cut. I do not suggest using a rotary unless your well versed in using the tool, and correction can be achieved on these cars with a DA and proper pads, polishes, and technique. Be sure to tape off all the edges, as Corvettes have some very sharp ones that you can rub through very quickly (gas door, bumper covers, and rear hatch especially).



I was able to remove scratches on this C5 last weekend, which appeared to be from the previous owner washing with a green Scotch Brite pad! I used Meguiars M105 on my DA with 6.5" Surbuf pads. Some of the deeper ones required a few passes though. Light swirls should be a snap using D300 or M105 on the MF pads, but water spots may require some effort depending on how deep they've etched and Surbuf and M105 may be the better route.





_MG_5529.jpg




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_MG_5522.jpg




All Done



_MG_5561.jpg








Rasky
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[/QUOTE]



This ^^^



Also this:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-...ail-2009-red-corvette-extreme-correction.html



See the video at the end of the first post on how to compound with surbuf/m105.
 
tdekany said:
On another note, if you want to see how your paint looks, use a paint cleaner instead of IPA. Many time IPA can't do what a quality pre cleaner can like Ez Creme or Lime Prime can.
Click to expand...



Traditionally I always followed the IPA wipedown with KAIO. I think the same principal applies with the Ez Creme or Lime Prime.
 
Paint Cleaners and (or should I say "vs."?) IPA/PrepWash/etc. wipedowns could be a good topic all in itself!



Note that many paintcleaners leave stuff behind..sometimes good, other times not.
 
Bill D said:
The IPA to water ratio isn't super crucial but I personally buy 91% since that's the highest you can get, and then eye ball it to make an approximate 50:50 mix. I keep it pre mixed in a gallon jug so I can easily refill my spray bottle on the fly.
Click to expand...



Thanks Bill!



tdekany said:
Don't jump from wool to 205 - use 105 and orange.



On another note, if you want to see how your paint looks, use a paint cleaner instead of IPA. Many time IPA can't do what a quality pre cleaner can like Ez Creme or Lime Prime can.
Click to expand...



Just want to make sure I get it right...start with the 105 and orange first? then if needed, go to wool and 105? I'll probably go with one of the cleaners you mentioned. I take it that it wouldn't hurt to do an IPA wipedown afterwords?



chrisguga said:
I too use a PC and Adam's products. They're very weak and I was initially very disappointed. I added Tuf Buf 5" wool pads and Meg's 105 and this combo rocks the house. Get a cheap wool spur and a 5" backing plate off of amazon and you're good to go. 1 set with this combo is equal to about 4 sets of SSR and the green pad.



I love a lot of my Adam's products, but their pads and polishes leave a lot to be desired.
Click to expand...



I'll be buying some of Tuf Buf wool pads really soon.






This ^^^



Also this:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-...ail-2009-red-corvette-extreme-correction.html



See the video at the end of the first post on how to compound with surbuf/m105.[/QUOTE]



Impecable work!
 
wool 105

orange 105

polishing 205

finishing 205



I really doubt orange will correct vette paint. Use wool first, very safe and effective. Surbuf is fine as per Brian, I just get much faster results from wool. You try and what works best for you, stick with.
 
Just recently, Menz 106 and 85rd left a beautiful finish after 105/orange pad with the rotary. Cleaned the paint with lime Prime and hologram city here we come. I don't use KAIO, although I still have 32oz of the original formula. LP and EZ Creme are 2 great products that will show you what is on the paint for me.





Accumulator said:
Paint Cleaners and (or should I say "vs."?) IPA/PrepWash/etc. wipedowns could be a good topic all in itself!



Note that many paintcleaners leave stuff behind..sometimes good, other times not.
Click to expand...
 
Okay, I'll check out EZ Creme or Lime Prime some time. They sound like they can be more economical than spraying something like CarPro Eraser for the last paint inspection.
 
There are many ways to achieve the same result. For me, this route makes more sense. One application and not only am I done (or go back and fix filings LOL) but both products improve the look. LP is more like a carnauba look while Ez is more shiny.
 
tdekany said:
wool 105

orange 105

polishing 205

finishing 205



I really doubt orange will correct vette paint. Use wool first, very safe and effective. Surbuf is fine as per Brian, I just get much faster results from wool. You try and what works best for you, stick with.
Click to expand...



Sounds good. Though I was thinking of finishing with Lime Prime (Reg), and sealing with Black fire wet diamond and topping it off with their Blackfire Midnight sun carnauba wax just for GP.



As for ISA wipedowns, I plan to wipe between polishings up until I'm ready to seal.
 
Just do lime prime after your 1st test spot is IPAd. You don't want surprises at the end!!! :D:D:D



CRUSHAH said:
Sounds good. Though I was thinking of finishing with Lime Prime (Reg), and sealing with Black fire wet diamond and topping it off with their Blackfire Midnight sun carnauba wax just for GP.



As for ISA wipedowns, I plan to wipe between polishings up until I'm ready to seal.
Click to expand...
 
tdekany said:
Just recently, Menz 106 and 85rd left a beautiful finish after 105/orange pad with the rotary. Cleaned the paint with lime Prime and hologram city here we come. I don't use KAIO, although I still have 32oz of the original formula. LP and EZ Creme are 2 great products that will show you what is on the paint for me.
Click to expand...



If I'm reading this right, you're saying you use EZ-creme glaze and/or LP to clean polishing oils and reveal filling? In other words, these products can be used in place of an IPA wipe on finishing steps? I'm just curious since I didn't realize EZ's cleaners were strong enough to remove those oils. If that's the case, I may bring it out of retirement because I never cared much for it. I also have the regular LP (abrasives) but have never used it.
 
tdekany said:
On another note, if you want to see how your paint looks, use a paint cleaner instead of IPA. Many time IPA can't do what a quality pre cleaner can like Ez Creme or Lime Prime can.
Click to expand...



Hmm, never mind, I didn't read through the whole thread. Sorry!
 
You are reading it right. Now of course you have to use both sparingly, and not use too much product. 2 tiny dots per panel is all that is needed in most cases.
 
tdekany said:
You are reading it right. Now of course you have to use both sparingly, and not use too much product. 2 tiny dots per panel is all that is needed in most cases.
Click to expand...



Thanks, I'll have to try it. On another note, have you ever noticed ANY filling from EZ-creme? To me it looks like the name "glaze" is a bit of a misnomer, as I've never noticed any real filling.
 
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