Rasky's Auto Detailing: 1964 Impala full wet sand, buff, and interior fluff

Blackmirror

New member
I was looking for the Charisma brand but couldn't find it so I settled for royal velvet. I used the towel with my quick detailer(Eagle One) and after that the towel left a lot of lint. Is this normal because its a new towel? Will the lint go away when the towel is washed frequently?
 
get mine from fieldcrest.com....but there's lots of sales around the net...especially when you get the irregular ones....but try the Charismas...they are so much softer.....i usually wash them once or twice to stop that linting prob....the velvet ones are very nice too...it depends how insane you want to be..:D
 
Have you tried micro-fiber towels?



They work SO much better, and they're way cheaper. I have a stack of expensive terry towels. But since complaining to an "expert" about having trouble buffing the last of my wax off the car, I tried MF and I was AMAZED at the difference. About the only thing I ever use terry for anymore is interior stuff like buffing out leather protector, or washing the wheels (for which I don't NEED expensive terry). Especally with products that leave any oils on the car, the micro-fiber remove the residue so much easier, so you don't rub as much, so you don't scratch as much. I won't touch my paint with anything else.



(Actually, if you need to use an aggressive cleaner/rubbing compound, the terry cuts better. But your paint probably doesn't need this!)



The "conventional wisdom" has been "100% cotton terry, made in the USA, high quality" for years and years. Micro-fiber towels have only been on the scene for about the last year - so a lot of the published "recommendations" were made before they were an option.



I am a total MF addict. I'm curious if there are people out there who have tried MF towels and have switched BACK to terry? If so, why?
 
I too like MF better than terry, and mainy use some cheap assortment of cotons on the interior. I do use quality Feildcrest towels for wiping out 3M polshes as MF grabs the especially sticky surface too much making it hard to buff out. Cotton will buff out eisier albiet a few streaks here and there which are nicely cleaned up with the next aplication of AIO, wax, ect.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Blackmirror [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I was looking for the Charisma brand but couldn't find it so I settled for royal velvet. I used the towel with my quick detailer(Eagle One) and after that the towel left a lot of lint. Is this normal because its a new towel? Will the lint go away when the towel is washed frequently? [/b]</blockquote>
Blackmirror,

To answer your question, you have GREAT towels. Just wash them three or four times in warm water, with a touch of detergent and then dry them with NO softner. The lint issue with correct after the towels get broken in.

I find that there are a lot of biased members on this board. Micro Fiber towels are nice for painted surfaces, door jambs, interior cleaning, and wheels, but they lint the hell out of windows.

As for cotton towels, I keep hearing about Charisma towels and they are just plush, but nothing out of the ordinary. The towels you have are 100% cotton and very plush and dense, that is the most important thing about a towel used for drying or detailing a car finish. The ability for the towel to wick away any dirt that was missed during the wash process of the car. Also the towels cotton fibers need to be soft enough to not cut into the clearcoat of the finish. Just about all upper end towels on the market in department stores will fill the needed job. Just make sure they are 100% cotton, not to repeat myself, but that's the big thing!

You've done just fine!!! Happy detailing :)
 
Thanks for the replies guys. appreciate it.:up Unfortunately, my GN doesn't have clearcoat as it is only a stage 1 paint. I will use the velvet towels for removing wax and polishes.
 
Black,



It also took me about 4 washings of my RV's before the linting subsided. I made the mistake of using one of them to dry after only one washing and I started getting a sneeze-attack.



I go back and forth between MF's and RV's for buffing and drying.....it all depends on my mood. :) :( :D
 
I'm always amazed by claims that high quality microfiber towels lint like crazy. I don't seem to have any linting worries or problems at all with my Miracle (Magic Towels) or neatitems towels. Very good towels. As for Charismas, I do like them as well. I use ones that have been cut and serged by Kevin Overall. No complaints so far. Laters.
 
Me too! I can't understand why some people don't like them. Works great for removing SG because of all the fibers per square inch. With most cotton towels, when you push hard it flattens and causes some micro-marring. Charismas, while not as soft as RV IMHO, have more cotton per square inch and are the only exception.



I would pick microfiber over cotton any day!
 
I think that both MF's and Charisma's both have a place. I can't quite put my finger on it, but I do prefer a Charisma with Z6 and an MF with Crystal Mist. I buff off Zaino with a Charisma, but use an MF for Souveran or Blitz. I do a final dry with Charisma's, and a final buff with MF.... Maybe I have a split personality! Maybe not! Maybe....



H
 
This car was brought to be by my mentor who now buys and sells cars?.some of you may recall the red 1963 Austin Healey that I did for him last summer. This car is a low mileage car with on 48,XXX original miles and has not been driven or registered since 1987! The car had received an amateur paint job and apparently it was done is some guys garage. Overall the car was pretty nice but the paint itself needed some help and I was asked to do whatever I could to make it look better. Originally I was just told to do the outside but then he asked me the day it was to be delivered to also do a quick touch up of the interior and address of few areas on concern.


Before pics


The tops of the car had sort of been wet sanded once already but was done very poorly and several areas were missed and the sides appeared to be untouched. Being white it was hard capturing the texture and defects in the paint so I didn?t spend a lot of time taking before pics?you should be able to get a good idea from these pics though.












Here are a few pics of the sanding in progress. I chose to do most of the sanding by hand using Meguiars 2000 grit paper and then followed it with their 3000 grit paper. For the large flat areas I sanded by hand using the 2000 grit but followed it up using 3M Trizact 3000 grit disk on the DA.

Half hood sanded






In these pics I tried to show the benefit of finishing down with a 3000 grit or higher paper. Even though M105 and other aggressive compounds are capable of remove 1200 grit scratches, the job is much, much easier when you finish with higher grit paper.

After I sanded the left side of the hood with 2000 grit I tape off a section and then sanded it with 3000 grit.


As you can see the 2000 grit left the finish very dull and there is little to no refection



After sanding with the 3M Trizact 3000 disks you can see a slight gloss to the paint again.



With the tape removed you can see a distinct line in the paint, especially where the florescent light is reflecting on the paint,




Sanding scratches were removed effortlessly using M105 and a PFW in this test spot.






Though they are expensive but they are definitely worth it IMO.






Some more sanding pics?.I think these were all after the 2000 grit step












Some before interior pics






Low mileage!



Paint over spray?this was easily removed with some lacquer thinner. (Interior materials of older cars like this seem much more durable and can usually withstand strong solvents like this)



I received some new pads to play around with which worked nicely on some areas of the car. 5? and 3? wool pads.



5?


3?






My actual buffing process was as follows:

  • Meguiars M105 on the rotary and various wool pads
  • Meguiars M105 on the rotary and a foam Meguiars W8207 pad
  • Meguiars M205 on the rotary and a foam Meguiars W9207 pad


I tried a few spots after the M205 with PO85RD and UF but saw no noticeable improvement. Glass was done using Meguiars D120, Chrome polished with M105 and Optimum Metal Polish, paint was sealed with Menzerna Power Lock sealant, carpets cleaned using the LGM and Folex, interior wiped down with 1Z Premium Cockpit Cleaner.
 
Now for some after pics?.I apologize for not having pics in the same lighting and I also forgot to take after pics of some of those nasty areas. Unfortunately I was forced to do all the polishing in my other garage as we were doing some painting on another car in my shop. I was also pretty pressed for time and I needed to deliver the car immediately after I was done with it. LMAO?I drove the car about 5 miles to the auction where it was to be sold and the license plates on the car still had the registration from 1987 on it! I can only imagine what I would have told a cop had I been pulled over! :D


After pics!










































Engine pic?though I did nothing to the engine bay



Interior









Just before I headed to the auction rollin? in my ?64! :D




As always, that you for taking the time to view my work! :)

Rasky
 
Looks great, that's a classic, for sure!

Every time I see a speedo like that I can just picture it moving up and down, bouncing from 10-30 mph all the way up and down until you get up to speed. It seems like all of those old speedos did that. :rofl:
 
Looks great, that's a classic, for sure!

Every time I see a speedo like that I can just picture it moving up and down, bouncing from 10-30 mph all the way up and down until you get up to speed. It seems like all of those old speedos did that. :rofl:

Thanks Zack! LOL, it definitely had the bouncing needle! ;)

Very nice detail !

Thank you! :)

Excellent work on a classic. I'm sure it will fetch a good price at auction. Thanks for sharing :clap:

Thanks Steve! I hope it brings good money too! The low mile should really help it. :)
 
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