Quick Review: Finish Kare FK1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax Review

I'm glasd you cleared that up Todd from your initial post you said it looks like an extra coat of clear and I instantly thought of a candy/plastic look. Although some do like that look and the purist seem to like the nuba look more. Price and durabilty wise it looks to be right inline with 845.
 
Makes you wonder why the pad manufactures only make certain colors in certain sizes. Seems the smaller pads are falling behind.
 
Definitely going to put this on after using Dura 105; I'll try using a DA with a 4 inch pad as well. Thanks for the tip on how much to use!
 
Todd Helme said:
I was thinking about putting it on my car with a DA and small gold pads to see how it applies via machine.
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Hey Todd, did you ever get around to apply the FK1000p via a DA? Thinking of doing that this weekend and was wondering which application method you would recommend, DA or form pad by hand?
 
addysdaddy said:
Hey Todd, did you ever get around to apply the FK1000p via a DA? Thinking of doing that this weekend and was wondering which application method you would recommend, DA or form pad by hand?
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I know you are asking Todd but I wanted to mention I have applied by PC using a white polish pad. It spread very well but was a b*tch to remove from the pad. All things considered, I found it just as easy to to apply by hand.
 
Yes I applied it to a friend's car with a four inch red Spot CCS Ultra Soft Red Waxing Pad. It was very easy to get a thin even coat and, at least IME, made the removal a little easier as well (since the coat was so even).

For me personally, this is how I will apply FK1000P in the future.
 
Great, just bought the 5.5" hydro tech crimson pads which I'm planning on using for this product. BTW, how did u scoop the sealant out of the tin and onto the buffing pad? Was thinking of a butter knife or plastic razor to skim it out of the can and schmear it onto the pad - do u think that will work? Another thought is to use a foam pad and apply a small section by hand to the paint, then take the DA & spread it out nice and thin over the surface. Not sure the best way to go - your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 
TID10 said:
I know you are asking Todd but I wanted to mention I have applied by PC using a white polish pad. It spread very well but was a b*tch to remove from the pad. All things considered, I found it just as easy to to apply by hand.
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Thanks for the heads up TId10, the dreaded pad cleanup. Oh boy, it's the one thing I really really hate about detailing the car. Major p.i.t.a. Just don't think I can get the sealant to spread as evenly or thinly by hand as by DA. But your comments are on point. Thanks.
 
Fk1000P is a mold release product that produces a super smooth finish on the casting even when used at High temps up to 275 degrees. In order to get a cast with a super smooth finish the releasing agent has got to be slick and level. 1000P allows for repeated releases of a mold so its very durable.

When we put it on cars it gives a durable slick level finish that reflects light in such a manner it appears to look like thicker clear coat.....the glossed gum ball effect.

If you apply it to paint using the PC/foam method, IME and IMO this facilitates a bond to the paint that last much longer than applying by hand. A second coat is wise, but you need to wait till the curing has off gassed most of the carriers, often solvents, or you will remove the first layer. In addition, application of the second or subsequent layers is best by hand to reduce "picking up" the first layer by the solvents. I give 48hr between coats, and I like to wipe down between each coat with FK425. If the conditions are warm and arid you can give 24hrs between.

The most common complaint is that Pseudo halos can show up when using this sealant. Cause is too thick of an application. Fix: allow to cure and then wipe down halos with FK425, or use a clean MF and wipe down at that time.

Its a great winter wax for many of my clients here in Utah. The clients like to use the touch free washes and the touch free, wash with harsher detergents than I use, and they get close to 5 months before the fk1000p no longer easily releases the dirty build ups. By then its time for me to spruce up the car for spring.....

Cheers,
Greg
 
Greg Nichols said:
Fk1000P is a mold release product that produces a super smooth finish on the casting even when used at High temps up to 275 degrees. In order to get a cast with a super smooth finish the releasing agent has got to be slick and level. 1000P allows for repeated releases of a mold so its very durable.

When we put it on cars it gives a durable slick level finish that reflects light in such a manner it appears to look like thicker clear coat.....the glossed gum ball effect.

If you apply it to paint using the PC/foam method, IME and IMO this facilitates a bond to the paint that last much longer than applying by hand. A second coat is wise, but you need to wait till the curing has off gassed most of the carriers, often solvents, or you will remove the first layer. In addition, application of the second or subsequent layers is best by hand to reduce "picking up" the first layer by the solvents. I give 48hr between coats, and I like to wipe down between each coat with FK425. If the conditions are warm and arid you can give 24hrs between.

The most common complaint is that Pseudo halos can show up when using this sealant. Cause is too thick of an application. Fix: allow to cure and then wipe down halos with FK425, or use a clean MF and wipe down at that time.

Its a great winter wax for many of my clients here in Utah. The clients like to use the touch free washes and the touch free, wash with harsher detergents than I use, and they get close to 5 months before the fk1000p no longer easily releases the dirty build ups. By then its time for me to spruce up the car for spring.....

Cheers,
Greg
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Great info Greg, thanks for sharing!
 
Greg Nichols said:
Fk1000P is a mold release product that produces a super smooth finish on the casting even when used at High temps up to 275 degrees. In order to get a cast with a super smooth finish the releasing agent has got to be slick and level. 1000P allows for repeated releases of a mold so its very durable.
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Just wondering, what does mold release mean???
 
Addicted2Bling said:
Just wondering, what does mold release mean???
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In the plastic injection business, a mold release is a lubricant that is applied to the injection molds that helps the molded part to be ejected out of the tool easily. This is critical for parts (like complex ones) so they do not bind and deform (since they are still hot) as they come out of the mold. You can see it sometimes as splatter on molded parts.
 
Greg Nichols said:
Fk1000P is a mold release product that produces a super smooth finish on the casting even when used at High temps up to 275 degrees. In order to get a cast with a super smooth finish the releasing agent has got to be slick and level. 1000P allows for repeated releases of a mold so its very durable.

When we put it on cars it gives a durable slick level finish that reflects light in such a manner it appears to look like thicker clear coat.....the glossed gum ball effect.

If you apply it to paint using the PC/foam method, IME and IMO this facilitates a bond to the paint that last much longer than applying by hand. A second coat is wise, but you need to wait till the curing has off gassed most of the carriers, often solvents, or you will remove the first layer. In addition, application of the second or subsequent layers is best by hand to reduce "picking up" the first layer by the solvents. I give 48hr between coats, and I like to wipe down between each coat with FK425. If the conditions are warm and arid you can give 24hrs between.

The most common complaint is that Pseudo halos can show up when using this sealant. Cause is too thick of an application. Fix: allow to cure and then wipe down halos with FK425, or use a clean MF and wipe down at that time.

Its a great winter wax for many of my clients here in Utah. The clients like to use the touch free washes and the touch free, wash with harsher detergents than I use, and they get close to 5 months before the fk1000p no longer easily releases the dirty build ups. By then its time for me to spruce up the car for spring.....

Cheers,
Greg
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Here's an alternate view: you can apply the 2nd coat right away according to Ron Ketcham...former FK employee.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/138659-use-winter-lsp.html#post1475522

He says to let it cure for 30 mins. He says you'll then "break" the layer of wax on the entire panel, then go back and polish remaining residue away. Essentially 2 steps to remove it.
 
Todd, when you buffed this wax off does it just buff off or does it kinda smear off? I used this on my car today and I have a feeling I didn't do it right
 
I didn't seem to have a problem removing the fk1000 and it was a little on the humid side when I did the car. Per Ron's instructions, I applied a thin coat by hand with a foam applicator and then took my DA and spread it thin all over - let it sit for 30 minutes. Wiped it off but wasn't particular about it and re-applied a second coat using the same method. Waited another 30 minutes and this time wiped completely off by hand. I know some have had issues but it work just fine for me. Finished great - no complaints in fact it was part of a test I'm doing and so far, I prefer the fk1000 but it's still early on. Did the whole procedure inside of my garage but again, it was rather warm and humid that day - low 80s in south FL.
 
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