Moe said:
usdm: I used a clean LC yellow pad and LC orange pad with PG for serious marks, scratches and 1500 and 2000 grit sand mark. The issue I am seeing is the compound broke down much earler than expected and required constant misting. Otherwise, it would residue that is hard to buff off. Is that normal?
Interesting.. What I experience with PG may be the similar, but I'm not sure.
I usually use it with a wool pad for heavy oxidation, and either a black edge
pad or yellow edge pad for removing sanding marks. When I use the wool, I
do get swirling that has tothen be followed up with IP and or FPII. When I
use the black pad, swirls are kept to a minimum, but I do find a lot of
hazing. When I use the yellow pad, I also get hazing, but it's not as severe.
I have also found positive results when using it with a green Edge pad,
but I don't do it often since most of the work involves fresh paint
repair and wet sanding. I only risk the PG with a green pad, if the paint
is factory, cured, or slightly weathered older paint, and I need more omph
than IP will offer.
First, I prime the pad with some FI or some water. Then, I apply a 6' line
of PG over the area, pick up the product with the machine set at 600rpm,
and do a very quick smearing of product over 2x2 area to be worked.
I usually run the compound at about 1k-1200, and apply a little pressure on
the machine to do the work. I rarely run at any higher speed when using
compounds, and I also make slow even passes. I just make passes until I
can only see a slight wet haze, then I let off and let the weight of the
machine take over for the final few passes. I run until I can no longer
see any more of the product, or I start to see some dusting. I know there
are some that do not continue to make passes up to the point of dusting,
but that's just one of the ways i do it.
After that, I wipe off with either some Final Inspection or HT Prep Wash,
and look over the section to see if I need to do another pass. The
whitishness when I do see it, is usually from marring and leftover residue.
The residue pretty much comes off complete after the wipedown, but
some of the marring it's still there (this condition is also seen when I
have used PI II FCRC, and MG). I only concern myself with the hazing on
dark colors since that is where I will see most of the marring if any.
When doing light colors, I follow up with IP via a polish pad @ 1200, and for
darks, I add FPII @ 1300-1500, and use the weight of the machine only. For
me, I find that FPII seems to leave the most problematic residue behind. But
as I am always wiping down after a pass, it does not bother me as much.
Two folks that might have some more insight on this is GSRstilze, or DeanSki.
