Pro's need only apply!

How did this guy (I got it from Groit’s) figure this out…eating a peanut butter and jelly sarnie dropped some on some waxed stained trim and when he wiped it off the old wax came off?



Wax Stain Removal:

Excess wax and polish residue can be removed with natural peanut butter, it permanently removes embedded wax residues in textured bumpers, matt-finish vinyl panels, trim mouldings (works on any colour trim) and weather-stripping. Instantly dissolves unwanted wax streaks and stains (peanut oils dissolves the dried on

Wax / polish) Wipe away any excess oil, spritz with clean distilled water and re-apply a vinyl or rubber protective dressing.
 
Here is something I see get missed all the time. When you dress the tires, make sure you move the car forward or backward about 2 feet so you can dress the paint of the tire that was on the ground. Otherwise, you end up with a strip of the tire near the tread with no dressing on it.
 
a) I know it's kind of crazy but claying the windshield during the claying process helps quite a bit. In addition, make sure that the wiper blades are cleaned using washer fluid.



b) Another "habit" of mine is doing the tar and bug removal before I start washing. This reduces the likelihood of bug guts or tar getting into the wash cloth and causing other issues.



c) If you are spot cleaning a headliner, spray the spot remover or cleaner on a towel as opposed to the headliner itself. Work that gently and you will get good results that way.



d) Paintbrushes can be your friend on Chrome wire rims and certain difficult to clean grilles.
 
PrinzII is right about claying the windows! I do that on a lot of details, then follow up with Vanilla Moose and a polishing pad.
 
Corey Bit Spank said:
VM on windows=awesome. :)



Very true....even on windows that appear to be very clean, using VM on them with the PC really gets the pad dirty and the glass looks noticably cleaner. Along with Meguiars 80 series products, it is something I just can't do without!



BTW, Poorboy's PwC is pretty good on glass too.
 
Use the best quality products that you can find. (That Does not mean the most expensive.



Previous post Said that technique is 80% Products 20%. I would strongly disagree. Excellent products will do 80% of the work. Poor products will do 20%. Productivity = time = money



Quality of your work is your calling card. It is important that your work looks good when the customer picks their vehicle up. It's even more important that it looks good a week or more from now. Good products will preserve the quality of your detail work. This is a point that is often overlooked where the detailer only cares what the job looks like when it leave the shop. It is the attention to this detail that keeps them coming back.





Its also good to get paid before they leave.
 
I must say the peanut butter tip is one I have never heard. Maybye before you use it, ask the customer if there is any peanut allergies that would cause a problem. Some of our wax contains almond meal, and this is an allergie problem.



Thanks to those who said this was a good post



Another quick tip I have is after you have cleaned your mats, they are always really wet. Before you vacumm them, use a winter ice scraper to strain the water off. Because they are rubber backed, they almost completely dry. Then, just vac as usual and you will have a lot less water in the vac aswell as the fact they dry so quick.





Clint
 
You're all gonna think I'm nuts, but for serious water spotting on glass, I've had great success with 000 steel wool, chrome polish, a little water and my trusty PC7424. We have extremely hard water and harsh sunshine where I live so waterspots are a constant problem. I once did this guy's 2002 PT cruiser. The water spots were unreal. When I asked when he last washed his cruiser, he said 2 weeks......2 weeks after he bought it!



I have tried acid, vinegar, Glass Spot Remover (GSR), clay bars and other stuff on tough industrial strength waterspots without satisfaction either because they left the spots or because of scratching.



Once I tried the steel wool, I was hooked. This is what I do: I'll cut a piece of steel wool and place it on a used PC foam pad. Place about a tablespoon of chrome polish on the wool/pad then and a very light spritz of water on the glass. Very little, not enough even to create drips or runs.



Then I place the pad and the wool with polish on the glass at the lowest speed setting to distribute the polish around the glass surface and the pad. Make sure none of the steel wool is showing from under the pad. Once this is done and the wool is firmly attached to the pad, I'll crank up the speed to "5". As the glass begins to dry out, I'll add another spritz of water if the spots aren't totally off yet.



Once it looks like most of the spots are off, I'll rinse the glass and use a water blade/squeegee to dry the glass. Unless the glass is completely dry, you will not be able to tell if all the spots have been removed, so I don't use a towel to dry the glass, always the blade. Repeat if necessary.



Amazing, scratch free results.



A few caveats:

1) If you have too much water or polish on the glass, the polish will fly all over the place. While not a big issue, it is a waste of product. If the water has evaporated and you cannot see through the glass, you are using too much chrome polish.

2) Sometimes there will be wool scattered like fine particles of dust, especially if you use higher speeds. Be sure not to get this dust into your MF, other pads etc. I always use copious amounts of water to make sure all the steel wool dust is washed away from the car once the polishing is done.

3) For obvious reasons, you will never use this pad for anything but glass polishing. It will get the pad all black so it's easy to tell which pad had the wool.

4) It doesn't take much steel wool for great results so if you're not sure how much to use, err on the side of conservatism. If you put too much on there, the wool will end up all over the car and you.

5) Tough spotting will still require patience and time.

6) I have tried this without the PC but left scratches. A PC or similar random orbital polisher is a must.

7) This is only for use on exterior glass. Not plastic (back window on some convertibles for instance) not paint, and not the interior glass.
 
If you want to try something that really works to remove water spots on glass try Duragloss NuGlass. I picked some up and decided to give it a try on the waterspots on my 300ZX Ttops.



Stuff was great. Took off all of the spots that vinegar couldn't



:up
 
I have not read this yet!



But I like after cleaning my wheel wells I take some Tire foam and spray all around up in there! It dissolves the dirt you didnt get and leaves a nice new shine to it, plus at next cleaning the dirt seems to come off much easier:up
 
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