Proper Application and Removal of Klasse High Gloss Sealant

alext72888

New member
Did a search but couldn't find this specific info.

Been reading a lot on this product and it seems that everyone has their own way of applying and removing the product.

This ranges from simply applying some on a dry pad, applying a small layer, waiting until it hazes up, then wipe down with a dry microfiber.

I have also seen someone literally apply it, and wipe it off with a microfiber IMMEDIATELY after

and some recommend using detail spray during the application, AND during the removal.

I was hoping everyone here could share their way of using the product and why, and maybe give me some advices on if my application is faulty.

My plan:

1. Apply thin layer of klasse
2. Let it haze up and dry (takes 10-30min I believe?)
3. remove haze with detail spray and microfiber cloth


my only worry is that the detail spray will somehow remove some of the klasse. Should I use a dry towel and risk leaving swirls on the paint?

I have also read some APPLY the klasse WITH a detail spray? Can someone please explain how this wont mess up the klasse and dilute it, causing it to not be as effective?
 
I've tried applying it directly and buffing with a MF towel only but I always end up applying too much and it was impossible to remove. Priming the applicator with detail spray helps even out the application a little. The last time I tried using KSG I put it in a spray bottle, sprayed liberally and used a wrung out MF towel that was soaked in Rinseless wash solution then buffed with a dry MF towel. There was no residue left over but not sure how much KSG actually bonded to the paint. More of a detail spray on steroids I guess.
I just used Opti-Seal for the first time and it is way easier to use than KSG. Even applied thick, it flashed clear with almost no residue. I think I'm sold on the WOWA sealants now.
 
I spray it on and wipe it off after a couple seconds. I really prefer to let it set/haze but its just too hard for me to get off no matter how thin Ive applied it .Too much work and sore muscles afterwards.
 
Try using a microfiber applicator. Have a bowl of water. Dunk the pad and wring it out to where it is damp. Put some KSG into a small spray bottle. Spray the applicator with 1 or 2 spritzes and apply it and work it onto the panel. It should flash fast. Buff off and continue around. You would like to keep the applicator damp. This was the best and easiest way to use KSG. You can add another coat 12 hours later.
 
I've tried many different ways of applying KSG and my preferred method is:
1. KAIO with a polishing pad speed 4-5 on a PC for 3 passes per section (buff off residue as you go)
2. KSG with a microfiber applicator (I use about a nickel sized drop to prime and a few drops extra per panel) and do 2-3 crosshatch passes (one panel at a time)
3. Wipe off about 10 seconds after you've done 2-3 crosshatch passes of KSG, just after your done inspecting...
4. Add an additional layer of KSG 24 hours later (rinseless or waterless wash worked for me to prep for the next layer of KSG)

...Another way that worked well but was harder to remove was letting the KSG set overnight, but a clean, climate controlled garage a must.

I find laying works well with this product and I would apply a minimum of two layers of KSG.

FYI: I used KSG for almost 2 years straight and currently have it on some panels again (to compare KSG's durability to another LSP over the course of this winter)
 
Try using a microfiber applicator. Have a bowl of water. Dunk the pad and wring it out to where it is damp. Put some KSG into a small spray bottle. Spray the applicator with 1 or 2 spritzes and apply it and work it onto the panel. It should flash fast. Buff off and continue around. You would like to keep the applicator damp. This was the best and easiest way to use KSG. You can add another coat 12 hours later.


This.

I have always used a very small spray bottle (4 oz.) to apply SG, and have never had issues with hazing.
 
I just prime a foam applicator with a *TINY* amount, just enough that the applicator doesn't grab but rather glides across the surface being KSGed. I strive for a uniform application but put it on so thinly that I can't see it on silver paint. Let dry if a smooth surface, buff immediately if a textured one. I fog the surface with my breath when I buff (the condensation seems to help make it easier) but otherwise that's it. I use far less than an ounce to do a big vehicle like a minivan or a Suburban. Wait ~24 hours and repeat until I have 4-6 layers.

I've waited several days to buff it off just to see what'd happen, and it was *easier* after the long setup time (but don't try that on trim).

For some reason I've always found KSG very easy to work with, doing it as per the above. Only switched to FK1000P (for the most part) because the layering was too inconvenient with vehicles that can't be out of service for days on end. Well, and I prefer how the FK looks and washes up.
 
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