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SamW

New member
Hello, this is my first post. I am going out tomorrow to buy a PC, i was wondering which one i should get (never used one) and whats the difference between them.
Also, because i am new, i would like to learn about cleaning products. I would like to learn what products i should use, with which pad, and in what order. I know there is a lot to learn but i would really REALLY love to learn. If anyone could be of help i would appreciate it very much.

Sam
 
If you're wondering what the difference between the Porter Cable 7424 and 7336 is, it's just the counter weight (5" vs. 6"), which affects which backing plate you need to buy.
As to the pads, the basics (IMO) would be a couple each of the light cut and polishing pads. With these, you'll be able to do *some* light defect correction as well as apply 1 step waxes. I recommend more than 1 because you may have an issue that requires a second pad (velcro comes apart, pad gets destroyed because it got caught on a sharp object/piece of trim, etc.) and it's a little bit of an inconvenience to have to stop in the middle of a session because your equipment is no longer usable. ;)
As Jared pointed out, OCD has some articles to get you started. As well, there are lots of threads throughout DC that can answer, more indepth, your questions.
GOOD LUCK!
 
i read the info on that link and it was great! I actually read it a few days ago and really enjoyed that site very much. I just wanted like a basic list of all of the pads, their uses and the same for products. And when to use what products, and which products (with which pads) can be harmful.
 
which swirl mark remover from poorboys and 3m (and any other brand) may be harmful for your paint? One of my cars has some medium-heavy swirls.
 
SamW said:
which swirl mark remover from poorboys and 3m (and any other brand) may be harmful for your paint? One of my cars has some medium-heavy swirls.
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They all can be harmful to some extent if used improperly I guess. On the same token, if you use them as directed I would say they are all relatively safe.

Let me highly suggest Poorboy's SSR2.5 It's a very good polish that will not only take care of "medium" marring, but it will often times leave the finish ready for you LSP. However, it never hurts to follow up with something like SSR1 after the 2.5.

Good Luck.
 
JaredPointer said:
They all can be harmful to some extent if used improperly I guess. On the same token, if you use them as directed I would say they are all relatively safe.

Let me highly suggest Poorboy's SSR2.5 It's a very good polish that will not only take care of "medium" marring, but it will often times leave the finish ready for you LSP. However, it never hurts to follow up with something like SSR1 after the 2.5.

Good Luck.
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Why would i follow up with 1 after 2.5 if 1 is less abbrasive? I would think it would make more sence to start with 1 then go to 2.5 but i am always willing to learn! :) Thanks ;)
 
In theory, you want to use the least abrasive method that will do the job. Sometimes you do have to step up to a more aggressive method. Following with a finer polish will allow you to remove hazing that a more aggressive polish may leave. Also, following with a finer polish will sometimes leave a better looking finish.

It would be kind of pointless to start with SSR1 only to follow it with SSR2.5. You'd wanna do it the other way around.
 
SamW said:
Why would i follow up with 1 after 2.5 if 1 is less abbrasive? I would think it would make more sence to start with 1 then go to 2.5 but i am always willing to learn! :) Thanks ;)
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As an illustrative example, if you were sanding wood, and your piece was pretty smooth to begin with, you wouldn't start out with a rasp (like a compound for paint), you'd go with a med. or fine sand paper. However, if you've got rough angular cuts that need to be smoothed to a rounded curve, you wouldn't start with fine paper. You'd get the bulk of the roughness gone first with something more course (rasp, file, course paper etc.) then end up using the fine paper.
Using the fine paper first, then moving to the rasp would negate what you accomplished with the fine paper. Using the rasp, then stepping down through to fine paper will make the finish as smooth as you can make it.

Hope this helped.
 
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