Products for Bright Silver

SilvaBimma said:
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Poliseal + OptiSeal. Too Easy!
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Wonderful looking Audi there:2thumbs: I have an RS6 coming up soon and I'm thinking of the same process and I fully agree with you....."Too easy" especially when you get those results, nice job.





Anthony
 
This is now my third post saying this today, make sure you clay! Clay is very very important! If your finish is not perfectly clean before applying a sealant or wax, then there is really no point in applying one!



You will hear over and over on autopia 90% prep 10% wax and it is completely true!
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Wonderful looking Audi there:2thumbs: I have an RS6 coming up soon and I'm thinking of the same process and I fully agree with you....."Too easy" especially when you get those results, nice job.





Anthony
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Thanks Anthony! Be warned, clearcoat/paint is EXTREMELY hard. Grab that rotary, polish it up and that combo is beautiful. Very good for professional usage.
 
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Thanks,

Tort

(moderator)
 
Hi-temp's Polyplate.



It's so deep and wet when used with their QD. I got a free sample of both and nothing has looked better on the silver Jetta. It doesn't get a lot of play on this board but it's winner winner chicken dinner!
 
violentveedub said:
Hi-temp's Polyplate.



It's so deep and wet when used with their QD. I got a free sample of both and nothing has looked better on the silver Jetta. It doesn't get a lot of play on this board but it's winner winner chicken dinner!
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I keep forgetting about Poly-Plate, only because I tend not to use sprays that need to haze. That said, though, Poly-Plate is a good looker. I've always treated it as a "booster", so I can't say anything about durability.



Hmmmm. Polycharged Poly-Plate . . . I might have to give that a try.



Tort
 
ron231 said:
This is now my third post saying this today, make sure you clay! Clay is very very important! If your finish is not perfectly clean before applying a sealant or wax, then there is really no point in applying one!
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I find this to be especially true for metallics. The light road film that can build up over time really prevents the flake from popping. The cleaner/clearer you can make the clearcoat, the more dramatic the metallic effect is going to be.



Tort
 
TortoiseAWD said:
I find this to be especially true for metallics. The light road film that can build up over time really prevents the flake from popping. The cleaner/clearer you can make the clearcoat, the more dramatic the metallic effect is going to be.



Tort
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I agree completely!



Colors like silver and white aren't able to rely on depth to get the :wow: ...



For those colors, it's all about clarity and reflecting light. Every bit of light that gets lost or redirected because of imbedded particles is a bit of light that's not being reflected.



I know most here are discussing the minute differences between LSP's, but the simple truth is that the LSP is the LEAST important step in getting a light car to reflect light.



The most important parts are claying to ensure an absolutely smooth, crap free clear coat, and some good compounding and polishing to smooth out any and all surface imperfections.



Once you have that done, You can put turtle wax on top of it, and it'll look glorious.



As Mosca once said: You can put zaino, zymol estate or Souvern on your car, and i'll polish mine and put old turtle wax from the green tub on mine. Mine will look better.



(or something like that...)
 
I agree with it to an extent. I have a white car and a black car, and certain LSPs give the white car more depth. I had never seen the depth I got until I tried Blackfire Ivory Paste. I use a lot of products, but for a white car, that product helped show depth.
 
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