Product Review: CQuartz Ceramic Quartz Paint Protection

glen e said:
Troy - just wanted to check in with you to see if you have any other application tips/update on Cquartz. I've wet sanded a few panels on my car and want to put back a few microns, so I've purchased CQuartz UK to be applied later on this week

Thanks in advance...
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Glen,

I personaly found CQuartz easy to use and apply. I worked smaller areas only doing ½ a hood at a time, or even smaller depending on conditions.

I redid this same car with CQUK in late summer / early fall. That means that original CQ last 2-1/2yrs. I found CQUK even easier to apply than CQ orig. I began working a small area and keep spreading it out until the “rainbow hazing” was almost all gone. I then let it “flash cure” for a few minutes and then very lightly buffed the panel removing any “high spots”. Since I had a garage I let the 1 layer sit for a few hours and then applied a 2nd layer. I applied the CQ very heavy handed a few time on purpose and found it still easy to spread and level. I then waited another few hours and then applied ReLoad as directed. I was verycarful but used a little extra ReLoad when cover the CQUK. I didn’t worry about a few streaks I got as there were no “high spots” before applying ReLoad. I waited 1 ½ weeks to the CQUK cure before washing.

I am actually planning on doing a deep clean on the coating in the spring and apply layers 3 & 4….


If you follow the instructions and some of the application videos available you will be fine.
<Video from CarPro on the application> CarPro Professional Car Coatings - CarPro Global - CQUARTZ CQUK

Cquartz CQUK - YouTube


 
Troy- (and others)

As an addicted detailer with a closet full of LSP'S.....
Can I use any of them?
Is it worth it?
Do they degrade the cquartz at all?
 
glen e said:
Troy- (and others)

As an addicted detailer with a closet full of LSP'S.....
Can I use any of them?
Is it worth it?
Do they degrade the cquartz at all?
Click to expand...


I topped CQ with a few different things. Opti Car Wax, DG AquaWax, CG v7, ReLoad, Hydro2, etc... I think I might have even tried BFCS, Opti Seal.

In the beginning I kept trying to top up the CQ and keep using my products. I did like using DG AW as a drying aid, but in the ended up using only CarPro stuff. ReLoad and Hydro2 work perfectly in conjunction with CQ & CQUK. This keeps the great water sheeting and beading characteristics I like.

Other LSP products don't degrade CQ but they will cover up it qualities until they wear off. That is one of the main reasons I only use spray wax / detailer products that added that temporary slickness and help in the drying process.


 
Thanks for a great review and updates Troy!
I just ordered a FRS Monogram (black of course) and have been really leaning towards putting a coating on it when I get it. This review has really pushed me closer to going with CQ. The hard part of this decision is what to do with this tub of Fuzion!
 
I learned one thing when I put mine on...choose small application areas and then wipe...like a 2 x 2 area...
 
Troy, quick question. When you mixed the IPA/Dawn 9:1, what was the percentage of the IPA you used to mix?
 
S2K said:
Troy, quick question. When you mixed the IPA/Dawn 9:1, what was the percentage of the IPA you used to mix?
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I am not sure to be honest. At the time of this original review CarPro didn't have Eraser. Now that it is out I have fully switched over to Eraser. And I make that suggestion to everyone want to do a coating especially CQ. I have added some extra IPA to my Eraser at times just to boost the cleaning and stripping. When doing that I do usually 4:1 or 5:1 Eraser:IPA.
 
Thanks Troy! Guess I was just hoping there was an alternative to the $15 a bottle of Eraser which is just mostly IPA and water.

So when you add IPA to the Eraser, is that straight 70% IPA?
 
S2K said:
Thanks Troy! Guess I was just hoping there was an alternative to the $15 a bottle of Eraser which is just mostly IPA and water.

So when you add IPA to the Eraser, is that straight 70% IPA?
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If you use and trust IPA mixtures then go for it. It should be no problem and as you can see by my testing it worked great. I just switched to Eraser because it was the product made by CarPro to do the job properly.

Yes, I just added the 70% straight. But this is only for extreme cleaning circumstances. I have done it, but I suggest doing so at your own risk. I needed to due to using some M205 that is super oily that I need to make sure was removed.

 
ski2 said:
Troy what are your thoughts on CQ's ability to reduce marring?
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Let me start by saying I have experience with OC Pro, CQ, CQUK, Wolfs HB as far as coatings go.

When it come to marring resistance CQ did very good for me. But with that said all of the coatings I have used will mar if you use poor washing techniques. The "hardness" of the coating does help some, but the real attribute that helps reduce the marring IMO is how they release / shed dirt and water. The slickness and how they release dirt is so much more important as the less dirt you have to wash off after rinsing the safer you will be.

Also using a concentrated lubricated soap and quality wash tool will do wonders as well. When I used the CQ I immediately bought the CarPro wool wash mitt. This was IMO one of the best choices I made. After soaking it prior to use (it is a skin that should be softened by soaking prior to use) it was super soft and gentle, yet was able to clean properly. After use and letting it dry using a pet brush to "brush" it only took a few minutes but is well worth it to make sure the hair is straight and clean of all debris.

 
Thanks Troy!! I've been using the CarPro mitt for about a year now and have seen a big improvement in the lack of marring on my wife's black Golf. I need to pick up one of the little ones though. Use a dog brush from the Dollar Store for grooming the brush after it's dry.
 
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