I just got my UDM and will polish my car next weekend with Opt Compound and follow up with Poli-Seal. Many of the pro's on here use Poli-Seal as their AIO and do so because it is a great time saver which is critcal in that business. Because I will be doing my own car so time is not so critical, since I already have some Prime Strong should I go ahead and use it after Poli-Seal but before Acrylic Jett? Or would it add no benefit to do so? Thanks.
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Prime Stong after Poli-Seal - Waste of Time?
- Thread starter Bert
- Start date
imported_smprince1
New member
If you are going to finish with AJ I would skip the PoliSeal....Prime is a perfect prep for AJ and it will just remove the PoliSeal.
I would suggest Compound, finish polish to remove compounding haze if needed, Prime, AJ.
I would suggest Compound, finish polish to remove compounding haze if needed, Prime, AJ.
smprince1 said:If you are going to finish with AJ I would skip the PoliSeal....Prime is a perfect prep for AJ and it will just remove the PoliSeal.
I would suggest Compound, finish polish to remove compounding haze if needed, Prime, AJ.
Really? I was planning on using Poli-Seal as my finish polish. I thought from reading on hear that Opt Polish was more meant for Rotaries rather than DA like my UDM.
JRock10 said:Prime Strong should be fine to finish OC. then top with AJ and it will be fine.
I would not have thought Prime Strong would have the polishing strength to clean up after compounding since Prime Strong is not a true polish by nature. Maybe I will give it a try.
JRock10 said:if you OPS, then Prime, the Prime will strip the OPS.
I was looking at using OPS more for its finishing abilities rather than its sealing abilities but I see where you are coming from.
you should try not using a compound it may not be necessary. i would probably suggest using a smaller pad. i was using sip followed micro polish by menzerna on a 6.5 inch pads and was not getting as good results micro polish by itself put on with a spot buffing pad. it makes a world and difference and time is cut down. for correction on the udm i would highly recommen d the spot buffing pads. for wax i would recomment the 6.5 in pads because of the larger area but you can use a spot buffing pad as it can fit in the can for can waxes like 476s
mtbr64 said:you should try not using a compound it may not be necessary.
My car is an 8 years old and has never been polished. It also has white paint which tends to be rather hard. Saying those two things, I don't know if I will be able to avoid using a compound. What do you think?
mtbr64 said:i would probably suggest using a smaller pad. i was using sip followed micro polish by menzerna on a 6.5 inch pads and was not getting as good results micro polish by itself put on with a spot buffing pad. it makes a world and difference and time is cut down. for correction on the udm i would highly recommen d the spot buffing pads.
I am going to use the Lake Country 5 inch CCS pads for polishing rather than 6.5 inch pads.
mtbr64 said:for wax i would recomment the 6.5 in pads because of the larger area but you can use a spot buffing pad as it can fit in the can for can waxes like 476s
I am pretty sure I am going to use the 6.5 inch pads for the sealant.
Joshua312 said:Seems kind of repetitive to use OPS and Prime strong if you are going to use AJ Trigger. Just chose one
Agree. Prime is optimum for use under AJ and AJT but it works well with Poli-Seal too.
Scottwax said:Agree. Prime is optimum for use under AJ and AJT but it works well with Poli-Seal too.
I know for your business you wouldn't use both due to time constraints but since time is not as constrianed since it is my own car and I already own some Prime Strong I wondered if I should go ahead and use it. From everyone's response it appears any benefit from using both would be minimal.
imported_hooked
New member
Prime Strong and Poli-Seal are very similar in function (Paint Cleaner/Light Polish) so I think it would be a waste of time because you would just be doingthe same step twice. Since you are taking care of your own car and time is not a factor, maybe you can get a dedicated Paint Cleaner or dedicated Polish to use between the OC and Prime step instead of the PoliSeal.
hooked said:maybe you can get a dedicated Paint Cleaner or dedicated Polish to use between the OC and Prime step instead of the PoliSeal.
Interesting thought. I was actually thinking of using Sonus Paint Cleanser after claying just for a thorough cleaning before polishing. Have not decided exactly what I am going to do. Need to make up my mind soon before it gets cold. Not sure how polishes and sealants will work in cold weather.
hooked said:Prime Strong and Poli-Seal are very similar in function (Paint Cleaner/Light Polish) so I think it would be a waste of time because you would just be doingthe same step twice. Since you are taking care of your own car and time is not a factor, maybe you can get a dedicated Paint Cleaner or dedicated Polish to use between the OC and Prime step instead of the PoliSeal.
Does Prime Strong have the polishing muscle to clean up after compounding? I assumed not, that is why I was planning to drop Prime Strong rather than Poli-Seal since Poli-Seal should be able to clean up after compounding.