Practicing

[nitronic]

I bought a brand new car and not really comfortable running a polisher on it yet. However I have an older pickup that I don't really care if anything happens to it.

I don't have a paint thickness gauge and they seem a bit pricey... this pickup I speak of still had some reflectivity left, so I assume there is clear coat left on most of it. Is that a safe assumption? I may get some polishing stuff and start practicing on it.

THanks,

Nic

 

[Stokdgs]

Nic,

Your new car will have a uniform amount of paint on it except on all sharp edges, which cannot hold as much paint without it running off, as say, a flat hood or fender, for example..
So, you will be safer on the new vehicle paint provided you dont go crazy with a Rotary using a very aggressive compound and wool pads, for example..

What is the other truck and what color ? Solid color or metallic ? What is the condition of the paint ?

What were you thinking of doing with what brand machine, products, and pads ?

Sounds like a fun project !
Dan F

 

[nitronic]

What is the other truck and what color ? Solid color or metallic ? What is the condition of the paint ?

What were you thinking of doing with what brand machine, products, and pads ?

Sounds like a fun project !
Dan F

It's a 2002 Silverado, solid white in color. It has some dents but plenty of undented body left to practice on. The condition of the paint is very dirty but I can still see reflections of recognizable objects if I look at it.

What little research I've done over the past few weeks suggests that the Porter Cable 7424XP (I think) is an affordable and safe machine to use. I've seen a lot of different brands of pads although Hexlogic sticks in my head. And I'm open to trying different products on the pads, and the one that sticks in my head still is Meguiars 105 and 205 which probably isn't exactly the right name but enough for you to know what I'm thinking of.

 

[nitronic]

What is the other truck and what color ? Solid color or metallic ? What is the condition of the paint ?
What were you thinking of doing with what brand machine, products, and pads ?
Sounds like a fun project !
Dan F

It's a 2002 Silverado, solid white in color. It has some dents but plenty of undented body left to practice on. The condition of the paint is very dirty but I can still see reflections of recognizable objects if I look at it.

What little research I've done over the past few weeks suggests that the Porter Cable 7424XP (I think) is an affordable and safe machine to use. I've seen a lot of different brands of pads although Hexlogic sticks in my head.

And I'm open to trying different products on the pads, and the one that sticks in my head still is Meguiars 105 and 205 which probably isn't exactly the right name but enough for you to know what I'm thinking of.

So it wouldn't be bad to practice using the clay and polish and what not. If I damage it, I don't really care, it's not worth much and at the end of the day it still does what I bought it for.

 

[Trouble]

Been polishing cars for 33 years and have never laid eyes on a PTG. You won't be needing that if you have common sense

What polisher?

 

[Trouble]

Does a paint thickness gauge tell you how thick the clear is or does it measure both paint & clear? If the latter is so then it seems pretty pointless/unreliable IMO

 

[nitronic]

I like to think I have common sense. But this is not my field of expertise; knowing that you've done this for 33 years and never used a gauge, I can probably do without one too.

I haven't bought anything yet but Porter Cable 7424 XP is one I've read of many people using and I think the autopia store even sells and sounds like it's hard to use it and damage a finish unless you rake the power cable across the finish.

 

[Migue]

I started out on a tight budget a few years ago and went with the pre-XP PC7424 (still have it and works without any issues). First vehicle i corrected was my own, a jet black Mercedes SUV and it came out looking great IMO and everyone else's that saw it at the Shop i used to work at. To this day i haven't burned through any paint using a PC, it is VERY user friendly and ideal if you just plan on doing paint correction here and there yet don't want to spend lots of $ .

What I did was I used the leftover $ to get extra pads and products/equipment until I decided I wanted to get something with more power. The below was done with a PC and M105 & M205.

 

[nitronic]

I started out on a tight budget a few years ago and went with the pre-XP PC7424 (still have it and works without any issues). First vehicle i corrected was my own, a jet black Mercedes SUV and it came out looking great IMO and everyone else's that saw it at the Shop i used to work at. To this day i haven't burned through any paint using a PC, it is VERY user friendly and ideal if you just plan on doing paint correction here and there yet don't want to spend lots of $ .

What I did was I used the leftover $ to get extra pads and products/equipment until I decided I wanted to get something with more power. The below was done with a PC and M105 & M205.

What is different about the XP other than that it's newer?

 

[Migue]

What is different about the XP other than that it's newer?

Unfortunately I never tried the XP(wasn't available back then), from what i've read is that is has more Power, so if i had to do it again i would try the XP out. I was honestly considering buying an XP even though i already had the previous one, but i just decided to wait, save more $ and buy a Flex. The XP came out shortly after i had purchased my "standard" one, so i missed out on that but it's all good I still have no regrets and my PC still works just like the first day i used it.

I'm sure someone that has experience with the XP will chime in and give you some input.

*EDIT: I found what seems to be a helpful link regarding your XP vs. Standard Inquiry over at AG : PC 7424 vs 7424XP - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum *