Post polishing wipedown, alternatives to IPA?

Regarding the article on the detailingworld forum.

I won't go further than this.

Some of the information is very valuable, however, without going into all the "holes" in it, will only say this.

Sort of, maybe, no, might be, no paint company would sign off on this advice, etc.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
If like most and the name "acrysol was a trademarked name, it contains xylene.

Good to use with the proper precautions, however only if preping for refinishing of the vehicle.

If you read the label, and it is the normal formula, there will be serious warnings on the label.

Xylene must be handled with serious care, no matter what percentage is in the product.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



Hmm my driveway paint is xylene based and for a while now I've been having trouble finding regular xylene to use to clean the paint that has stuck to the weather stripping of my garage door. Maybe I ought to buy and use one of these acrysol type products only for this
 
I used to buy a carpet solvent back in the day, Terminator from Malco that had Xylene in it, made me choke up everytime I used it, not good. Since then I think Xylene has been classified as toxic.
 
SpoolinNoMore said:
I just fill the foam gun with Dawn and foam the car down after a good 2 step polish. Let it dwell and then just rinse off then dry. Since the vehicle was already clay/polished, no need to rub a wash mitt across it. You've most likely already had your hose and soap out anyway.
Click to expand...



This is something I do on all the cars I polish; but I use a trafic film remover, ie a heavy alkalie detergent, and it also removes all the dust that you can have on the car.
 
Accumulator said:
Guess most people here already know my take on this, but here goes anyhow, for the umpteenth time:



I absolutely*LOVE* the PrepWash for removing polishing oils, much more effective IME than IPA. When multiple (and I don't mean just four or five) tries with IAP couldn't get those [expletive]ing M205 oils out of the M3's Byzanz Metallic or the Yukon's Carbon Metallic (what's with those two paints in this regard?!? They retained oils like I couln't believe!), the Prep Wash did the trick, though even that took two or three tries.
Click to expand...



RE: PrepWash, do you rinse the paint afterwards? I've used it a handful of times but put it in the back of my detailing closet and forgot about it for a while. I may have to pull it back out again. I did have it stain a black car once, when it ran down a vertical panel and I didn't wipe it quick enough. It polished out, but made me a bit wary of using it again.
 
Then just buying a big jug of mineral spirits and having it forever, might make better practicality than fussing with IPA, getting it in smaller amounts and then maybe cutting it with water. As long as it cuts the polishing residue or LSP and causes no harm to the paint, it should be a winner.
 
Ahh, Bill, mineral spirits is a perto based product. To mix it with water you would need an emulsifer.

Oil and water do not mix (unless you got the correct emulsifier)

Clean with it, then do a quick wipe down with the IPA mix, same as if using New Car Prep.

That will remove any residue in most cases.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Ahh, Bill, mineral spirits is a perto based product. To mix it with water you would need an emulsifer.

Oil and water do not mix (unless you got the correct emulsifier)

Clean with it, then do a quick wipe down with the IPA mix, same as if using New Car Prep.

That will remove any residue in most cases.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



Ron, I wasn't thinking of cutting the mineral spirits,yep there'd be an interesting reaction. I'll use that or NCP and follow with the IPA mix and be residue free :)
 
lostdaytomorrow said:
10% IPA here, never had a problem but keep it away from plastic..
Click to expand...



Ten percent sound awfully diluted to me :think: I have enough trouble getting stronger concentrations to strip off oils.
 
When using water based polishes such as Groits or HD Uno do you need to do an IPA wipedown before applying sealants such as DG105 or Poxy?
 
Like Accumulator, I also like High Temp's Prep Wash. It does an outstanding job of removing polishing oils, QD residue, and LSP's quickly. It does not, however, evaporate completely off of the surface like IP does; it leaves residue behind after it dries. The fact that some of it remains on the paint concerns me a bit, as I'm worried that it will negatively effect the LSP's ability to bond properly with the paint. IPA does a great job of removing the Prep Wash residue (as does distilled water, for that matter). Prep Wash followed by either a very quick IPA or distilled water wipe is a fast, easy way to ensure yourself of *bare* paint for either post polishing inspection or prior to LSP application. IMO, Prep Wash followed by IPA is far less time consuming/labor intensive than just removing oils with IPA alone. Prep Wash is used as you would a QD, so the "wash" in the name is a bit of a misnomer.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Prep Wash is used as you would a QD, so the "wash" in the name is a bit of a misnomer.
Click to expand...



Okay, I'll up this one on the list of yet-to-try-products especially because the alternatives can get a bit pricey and it just makes sense to have this type of product in bulk.
 
Bill D said:
Okay, I'll up this one on the list of yet-to-try-products especially because the alternatives can get a bit pricey and it just makes sense to have this type of product in bulk.
Click to expand...
That's the second best part about Prep Wash... it's *cheap*. Mix it 50/50 with distilled water, and it'll remove pretty much anything. On seriously nasty vehicles, I mix it up and put it in a pump up garden sprayer, then use it as a pre-wash spray. Bugs, tar, wax residue then fall off easily during the wash. It's great as a cheap alternative to p21s Total Auto Wash.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top