Porter Cable vs. Rotary

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imported_Detailing Technology

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I am very experienced with a rotary. I just bought a PC to apply wax and maybe a final polish.

I really see no need for the Porter Cable. I get a beter finish with the rotary and I can wax by hand. Is there sometihng I am missing with the Porter Cable usage? I want to return it, I dont think I will use it for applying wax again unless I get some storied from users.



Rotary experienced professionals, what do you use your Porter Cable for?
 
If you are "the man" with the rotary, then it seems like you might not find much use for a PC. I just started using a rotary, but I use the PC for applying prime and still with FPII. I imagine soon I might be using the PC for that (FPII) too.
 
gmblack3a said:
If you are "the man" with the rotary, then it seems like you might not find much use for a PC. I just started using a rotary, but I use the PC for applying prime and still with FPII. I imagine soon I might be using the PC for that (FPII) too.
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I see. My impression of the PC usage for a detailing professional was that it was used to polish tough to get at areas and to apply/remove wax.



I guess it is a stepping stone to a rotary?
 
jsatek said:
I see. My impression of the PC usage for a detailing professional was that it was used to polish tough to get at areas and to apply/remove wax.



I guess it is a stepping stone to a rotary?
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All of my LSPs are done by hand, but yes some (myself included) do view it that way. Then again some very good detailers (Scottwax and Mike here in the Atl) pretty much do all their work with a PC. They might be more qualified to better answer you then I am.
 
My response to every "rotary versus PC" thread is the same... why use a sledgehammer when a simple ballpeen hammer will suffice?



I use the PC for 90% of my details because with the right pads, products and a healthy dose of patience I can tackle all but the worst cars. Even then...when I do break out my Makita for a compound session I always follow my work with a PC.



A DA whether it be a PC or a Cyclo is a necessary tool (just as a rotary is) for a detailer IMHO.



Another thing one has to consider is the idea that use of a rotary = professional. That is simply not that case. From my own personal experience I have had to correct many, many rotary butcher jobs. It is all a matter of the man behind the tool with his knowledge, experience and skill that will bring about the ultimate results of the detail.
 
Sometimes I just can't get a panel quite hologram free with a rotary, due to very soft paints or just having an off day in general. Or, if I can't inspect a panel under bright lighting/sunlight. In that case, I'll make a final pass via PC (I use a Cyclo actually, but its pretty much the same thing) and a mild polish like Menzerna FP or Optimum to ensure that there is no hologramming left on the final product. If you're good enough with a rotary that you can leave a perfect finish every time, than theres no need for the PC. But I know that I'm not that good.
 
The way I look at it, is that the rotary is a perfect tool for fast defect removal and if you are an experience user a one step tool for customers where speed and detailing multiple vehicles per day is part of the business game, but for my own vehicles the PC is that machine that adds the TLC when doing the final polish and applying the LSP. The PC or Cyclo is the detailing enthuasist's toothbrush for frequent upkeep of the paint !
 
I cant figure out why the finish with the PC was worse than the rotary. I used a grey Lake Country pad and 3M foam pad glaze and then a blue Lake Country and Natty's. As soon as I pulled the car in the sun, I couldnt believe the amount of swirls in the finish.



I usually finish a car with a black 3M foam pad and foam pad glaze, wash it, then wax by hand and the swirls are kept to a minimum.
 
Longer working time with a PC.



Generally doing poorly cared for vehicles. I'd say my Rotary to PC ratio is. 80/20



Another reason why I prefer a rotary over a PC in most cases is it won't vibrate my hands to death like a PC.
 
I use my rotary for compounding, polishing and finishing.



And I don´t buy the argument



"why use a sledgehammer when a simple ballpeen hammer will suffice?"



I can do the same job for much less time with a rotary compared to a PC or a Cyclo. Just use the right pads. You don´t have to use the "sledgehammer" IE wool pad and heavy compund on all paints. Just use a polishing/Finishing pad and medium/light compound. And follow with a finishing pad, fine polish and ~1200rpm. On very senisitive paints I have to Compounding, polishing and then finishing.



Voilá no holograms.



I am not a professional but I do this every time and I don´t see any holograms. I use strong halogens and inspect all my cars for ~15min before I take out them in the sun and inspect again.

The customers are very happy.



But with wrong pads, wrong compound, to high rpm and wrong monkey behind the steering wheel, then is the rotary a perfect weapon against flawless paints.



I use my cyclo for LSP:s but I don´t like the high rpms(3200) 2000 is enough.



PC/Cyclo is bullet proof.



Who dares wins ;)
 
porta said:
I use my rotary for compounding, polishing and finishing.



And I don´t buy the argument



"why use a sledgehammer when a simple ballpeen hammer will suffice?"



I can do the same job for much less time with a rotary compared to a PC or a Cyclo. Just use the right pads. You don´t have to use the "sledgehammer" IE wool pad and heavy compund on all paints. Just use a polishing/Finishing pad and medium/light compound. And follow with a finishing pad, fine polish and ~1200rpm. On very senisitive paints I have to Compounding, polishing and then finishing.



Voilá no holograms.



I am not a professional but I do this every time and I don´t see any holograms. I use strong halogens and inspect all my cars for ~15min before I take out them in the sun and inspect again.

The customers are very happy.



But with wrong pads, wrong compound, to high rpm and wrong monkey behind the steering wheel, then is the rotary a perfect weapon against flawless paints.



I use my cyclo for LSP:s but I don´t like the high rpms(3200) 2000 is enough.



PC/Cyclo is bullet proof.



Who dares wins ;)
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I agree with this also. I rarely get holograms unless I am lazy and do a sloppy job. My rotary never spins laster than its slowers setting. I polish the paint until the 3M product is completely gone. For me, a rotary is the only way polish a car. Since I spent $200 on a PC and a bunch of pads, I was hoping there was someting I was doing wrong, or had false impressions. I spoke to the owner of Poorbays and he reccommened I apply Natty's by hand, I did and I was impressed with the results over the PC.



Anyone want to buy a new 7424 Porter Cable with 3 Lake Country pads used on the nose of a Porsche Cayenne S one time?
 
Well, as a rotary first user, let me defend the PC. They are not the same machine. You aren't going to get the same results applying the principles you do to a rotary when using a PC. There's more hatching and more product breakdown required. But it's a really easy machine to use, if you aren't getting results with it... it probably means you are using the machine wrong.



One of the few occasions where I'll reach for a PC over the rotary is if I don't feel like doing the taping job and the paint damage is minimal. It also is a nice insurance when dealing with 'thinned' clearcoat... or paint.



That said... for me, it's a nice tool to have in the arsenal. If you can get by without it, fine. I can probably survive without the PC... but it's nice to have one.
 
I'm still using both pc and rotary. If you're polishing the very lower of the door panel(what you call that area). Its a biatch to polish with a roatry and it's very ackward position holding a big a$$ Makita rotary. So in that caes, I use PC. Just keep the PC for now, you will need it one day. Dont totally relied on the rotary.
 
klnyc said:
I'm still using both pc and rotary. If you're polishing the very lower of the door panel(rocker panel). Its a biatch to polish with a roatry and it's very ackward position holding a big a$$ Makita rotary. So in that caes, I use PC. Just keep the PC for now, you will need it one day. Dont totally rely on the rotary.
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Now that I think about it, agreed, for $100 bucks I can hold on to the thing for that special usage moment. I also though of using it on my bike, very tight clearance.
 
porta said:
Who dares wins ;)
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What does that mean in the context of this discussion??



You and I obviously have a different taste/preference in tools...that is all. To me the "sledgehammer" would be using a rotary on a $100K car with minimal swirling....it does not have to be a wool pad or heavy cut compound. I can accomplish the same defect removal with the PC (as I could with a rotary) with the sacrifice of time being made for the peace of mind knowing that there will be zero chance of holograming or burnt paint.
 
1 Clean WS6 said:
What does that mean in the context of this discussion??



You and I obviously have a different taste/preference in tools...that is all. To me the "sledgehammer" would be using a rotary on a $100K car with minimal swirling....it does not have to be a wool pad or heavy cut compound. I can accomplish the same defect removal with the PC (as I could with a rotary) with the sacrifice of time being made for the peace of mind knowing that there will be zero chance of holograming or burnt paint.
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The shop I worked at worked almost exclusively on cars form Miller Motor Cars (Huge Ferrari, Aston Martin, and Lotus dealer) and Lexus of Greenwich. I'd have to say a day didnt pass where I didnt work on a $100,000 with the rotary. I actually completely wet sanded a Ferrari F40. We didnt use the Makita rotary to save time, it was just the tool of choice. Believe me, we had access to every tool and chemical in the world at this shop. I'd like to try to get the same results out of both the rotary and the Porter Cable. I think its a waste to always hit the paint with a rotary. My cars are black and I suffer from OCD, as soon as I see the swirls get to a certain point, I have to polish them out. I'd love to be able to do it with the Porter Cable instead of the Makita, thats why I bought it. I may invest the time in figuring it out, maybe different pads, maybe different chemicals, who knows.
 
Well the original reason I bought a PC was to get rid of dealers installed swirl marks on my new car 2 years ago. I thought if the dealer used a rotary and caused that, then the PC is the right tool to get rid of them !
 
klnyc said:
If you're polishing the very lower of the door panel(what you call that area). Its a biatch to polish with a roatry and it's very ackward position holding a big a$$ Makita rotary..
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I just hold it upside down and that seems to work great. I hold the Cyclo upside down a lot too.
 
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