Porsche 997 Carrera S

clnfrk said:
Deanski,







I actually asked him about the PSE, which I first heard about while reading your thread a while back concerning the ordering and delivery of your car. and he plans on getting that also. He is also aware of the headers, but I'm not really sure if he intends on getting them also. He was actually the one who told me about the headers saying they are either chrome or highly polished. I can't remember which one it was. I have to say that I don't really care for the look of the standard exhaust. It looks too rusty.



Funny you mentioned the wood accents. I had told him that I felt wood trim had no place in a Porsche, at least in the 911's. Perhaps a Cayenne with wood trim would be better, but still don't feel it has much of a place in there either. He loves the wood though and even told me about how one of his friends in a Benz commented about the Porsche having real wood vs. fake wood in his Benz.



I also showed him pictures of your car from the thread I mentioned above and he really likes the ceramic brakes and aero kit except for the rear wing that he felt was too high. I also told him about the armor glove that you got. He is very anal about rock chips so he is very interested in getting it.



As for the engine bay, it really wasn't bad at all. I just wiped down all the areas with a damp microfiber towel that I could reach and it came out great. I hate it when you open the engine cover after a wash and water drips all over it. Not a big deal if you plan on cleaning it anyway, but when you just want to wipe along the edges its really annoying.
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I would highly advise that he get paint film on the car! Saves from many rock chips!



As for exhaust, there is a group buy for PSE over on RENNLIST 997 forum. Also, look into AWE or Fabspeed headers, Milltek cans and sport cats. Have him check out the thread over at RENNLIST for the PSE system.



The Aerokit on my car is nice in the front, more aggressive and yes, the rear wing does look a bit high, but in all it is very functional at higher speeds. It adds a ram-air openings on the cover for more air into the engine intake and engine bay as well. From the side it looks great, but direct from behind it looks a bit higher than it really is.



I hope he also invested in a radar system. I have a K-40 in front and rear, fully Bluetooth.



Also, my car is one of the first 997's in the country with satellite built into the PCM. It was done by getting a Cayenne kit for Sirius and installing it. Not approved by Porsche, but it does work! Soon XM will be avalible possibly for the 997.



The SONUS Leather Conditioner is perfect for Porache leathers. Smells bad out of the bottle, but it releases the natural tanning oils from the leather. Smells brand new when done!!



I also had the Carerra S lit sills installed at factory along with the Sport Shifter, Sport Steering Wheel, Sport Chrono, PSE, and a few other exclusive items. Matched the seatbelt color to the PCCB calipers (speed yellow).



THese cars are high in ride height and can stand to be lowered for better look and handling. H&R makes a sport spring kit that will lower it about 1.2". Or, go with the new Bilstein PSS9's for PASM, full coilover and still retain PASM.



Engine bay is a bit tight you could say, but with careful attention, it looks really nice.



These are great cars to drive!!



Regards,

Deanski
 
clnfrk said:
I also find that the Menzerna IP and Blackfire dust quite a bit, however they do produce great results. I usually end up rewashing the car after I'm done, which is what I did with this car.



If you are finding the IP to not be effective, perhaps it has something to do with your pad selection and what you are trying to correct with this polish/pad combo. You may need something more aggressive in your situation.
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Well DaveKG told me there there two versions of Menzerna IP... one that dusts and dries out quickly, and one that doesn't dust and doesn't dry out quickly. I'm using IP with LC Orange pad and I am able to remove minor swirl marks SURE! but not able to remove one step above of those. Should I do with yellow pad with IP? but isn't that going too much?



When did you re-wash the car? after polishing? or after waxing? and wouldn't rewashing the car put more scratches to it?
 
bonoz said:
Well DaveKG told me there there two versions of Menzerna IP... one that dusts and dries out quickly, and one that doesn't dust and doesn't dry out quickly. I'm using IP with LC Orange pad and I am able to remove minor swirl marks SURE! but not able to remove one step above of those. Should I do with yellow pad with IP? but isn't that going too much?



When did you re-wash the car? after polishing? or after waxing? and wouldn't rewashing the car put more scratches to it?
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I am not sure which version of IP that I use, but I can tell you that the container is white with a picture of the front side view of a Mercedes SLR. If you find that there is some marring that still can't be removed with IP and orange pad it is perfectly alright to step up to a yellow cutting pad. You should definitely follow up with a finishing polish afterwards to bring back the gloss and remove the micromarring that IP and orange/yellow pad will induce. I recommend Blackfire SRC or FPII. I actually prefer the Blackfire as I find it to produce exceptional gloss. And if you aren't satisfied with the results from the IP/yellow pad, you could also step up to Menzerna Power Gloss for added aggressiveness. I would start with a white polishing pad and see how that works with the PG. If I still wasn't satisfied I'd go with a green pad and so forth.



I re-washed the car after polishing and waxing. Keep in mind that scratches inflicted while washing is the result of improper and/or careless washing techniques. I have a '99 M3 that I have had for over 4 years that has seen countless numbers of hand washes (by me only). You'd be hard pressed to find any micro marring on that car. Listed below are tips to follow to ensure that you will not cause any damage while washing.



1. Clean tires/wheelwells first.

2. Thoroughly rinse loose dirt off of vehicle. I do not use a nozzle connected to the hose. I have rather good water pressure from the spigot at my house and I just use my thumb over the end of the hose to produce a strong blast of water.

3. Make sure you are always using a clean wash mitt or pad. While sheepskin mitts are recommded by most, I find that they shed their fibers way too much. I use a white chenille mitt that you can purchase at any auto parts store. I actually would prefer the chenille pad version, but I have yet to see it in stores. I did find one that Griot's sells that I would like to order. DO NOT use any type of sponge.

4. Use a high quality car wash shampoo. I really like Meguiars NXT. Great sudsing action and lubricity. Very important. Make sure that when mixing the soap and water that your bucket is perfectly clean of any debris for obvious reasons.

5.Start from the top of the car and the bottom last.

6. Using the two bucket method is a good idea also. One to rinse the mitt and the other with the soap/water mixture. I personally don't use two buckets though. Be sure to redip the mitt often during the washing process.

7. Occasionally inspect your mitt for any visible debris that could be dragged along the surface and rinse accordingly.

8. Use the flood method for final rinse and if possible, blow out any remaing water out of crevice such as in and around side mirrors and trim. I use a high powered Stihl leaf blower used by most landscapers. Just be sure not to blow any dirt from the ground onto the car. Chances of this will be greatly minimized if the surrounding area is still wet. Performing this step will greatly reduce the need to dry conventionally preferrably using a quality waffle weave microfiber drying towel.

9. Since there is alot of potential for marring to occur while drying, it is imperative that you ensure that your drying apparatus is completely free of dirt and debris. Thoroughly rinse before using and don't apply any pressure when drying the vehicle. I just glide the ww over the surface.
 
I use a sheep's wool mitt for the top part of the car. And a microfibre mitt for the bottom.



Thanks so much for going through your wash process with me. I'll follow that.
 
And, I understand that i should blue-tape all the plastic/rubber trim and headlights and stuff while polishing. But should I wax them though? or sealant?
 
bonoz said:
And, I understand that i should blue-tape all the plastic/rubber trim and headlights and stuff while polishing. But should I wax them though? or sealant?
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Its always a good idea to mask off any trim, especially the textured kind. I wouldn't wax the trim though because in all likelihood it will just stain it like the polish would. On the other hand, there are waxes that do not stain trim at all. S100 is a perfect example.



I haven't used all that many different kinds of sealants so far, but the ones that I have do not stain trim (Klasse SG, Jeff's Werkstatt AJ and UPP). So, I guess it would be alright to apply sealant on trim, but perhaps a dedicated plastic/rubber trim protectant such as Aerospace 303 would be a better choice. The only downside to that would be that it will likely wash off in the rain or during your next wash.
 
I forgot to mention in my previous post that a microfiber mitt is probably not the best choice, especially on lower panels where most of the dirt collects. The nap on these types of mitts aren't very dense and I find that they don't hold as much soap as chenilles and sheepskins do. They also don't release dirt as readily as the others when rinsed due to the very nature of microfiber. If you really like the sheepskin then continuine using that for the upper portions of the car and get yourself a chenille for the lower portions.



Note: When selecting a chenille, I recommend getting the kind that is white. There is currently a different type of chenille on the market that comes in different colors and sort of resembles a mop. I have tried this kind and don't really care for it at all. It does not hold as much soap and it has that coarse feeling when dragged along the finish.
 
Just to clarify the Intensive Polish things here... there are actually many versions of Intensive Polish out there, but two "generic" types:



> PO91L - this is the standard Menzerna Intensive Polish, and is the one that comes in a white rectangular bottle with the SLR on the front, distributed by Classic Motoring Accessories. This polish is reknowned for dusting a lot, so I find regular spritzes of QD help with this. The aluminium oxide abrasives in it are very fragile and shatter under heavy inital pressure, so will not cut as effectively (but will still cut) - I prefer a slow-cutting procedure with this polish starting at slow speeds with zero pressure and allowing the polish to break down naturally rather than under pressure, and then finishing with medium pressure - this has given me the best defect correction I have achieved from this polish. Power Gloss S34A is the same.



> PO85RD3.0x - this comes in various guises (PO85RD3.01, PO85RD3.02 etc etc) and is the cerami-clear version of the polish. Effective and safe on standard paint types as well however. Far better lubed than PO91L so will not dust anywhere near as badly, and breaks down perfectly with only its own lube so requires no spritzes of QD. Will take initial pressure effectively as well so a slow cutting procedure is not required I find. Sold generally in cylindrical "Menzerna Professional Line" bottles. Out of the two types, this one would be my choice every single time.
 
Thanks for the info. I was wondering, wouldn't washing the car after we polish/seal/wax it..wouldn't we be wearing off the wax by washing it?
 
clnfrk said:
I forgot to mention in my previous post that a microfiber mitt is probably not the best choice, especially on lower panels where most of the dirt collects. The nap on these types of mitts aren't very dense and I find that they don't hold as much soap as chenilles and sheepskins do. They also don't release dirt as readily as the others when rinsed due to the very nature of microfiber. If you really like the sheepskin then continuine using that for the upper portions of the car and get yourself a chenille for the lower portions.



Note: When selecting a chenille, I recommend getting the kind that is white. There is currently a different type of chenille on the market that comes in different colors and sort of resembles a mop. I have tried this kind and don't really care for it at all. It does not hold as much soap and it has that coarse feeling when dragged along the finish.
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My mf mitt is a bit of a handful really. It is not like plain microfibre cloth stiched to a mitt. It has little prongs hanging out from the holes... microfibre prongs. I don't know if that's what you thought it was.
 
bonoz said:
Thanks for the info. I was wondering, wouldn't washing the car after we polish/seal/wax it..wouldn't we be wearing off the wax by washing it?
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If you use quality car wash soap and gentle washing technique, this shouldn't be an issue. I wouldn't wash the car right after waxing it though, as the wax/sealant needs time to cure for preferably 12+ hours before being exposed to water. So if possible avoid washing, wiping down with a QD, driving in the rain etc. for a day, as all these things will disturb the wax from curing properly.
 
nice work, good car the 997



but what are those gawd ugly things next to the rear numberplate - totally mess up the rear end styling
 
3fiddyz said:
nice work, good car the 997



but what are those gawd ugly things next to the rear numberplate - totally mess up the rear end styling
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Oh yea, those are the bumperettes that are required on USA cars. Some of us will remove the USA rear bumper assy and install a Euro version. Much cleaner looking.



If you also notice, it sits a bit high in the rear as well. Euro spec is lower. Nothing H&R spings can't resolve!





Deanski
 
Clnfrk,



Oh yea, if I didn't already say this in my other posts, have him change the side markers from the amber ones to clear lenses. Looks much better on the black.:2thumbs:



In fact I have another set of the lenses if he's interested. It takes a few minutes to do.



Regards,

Deanski
 
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