Poorboy's Pro Polish - How aggressive is it?

cwcad

cwcad

New Normal
I just recieved Poorboy's ProPolish the other day. I have used it just once on my tailgate to prep the surface for a spray glaze that I got from another DC member. Thanks Greg Cavi.

Did some searching on the site. From this search I have recieved varying opinions of the abbrassiveness of the product. Meaning that it is very pad dependant. I used it with a LC white polishing pad and PC at speed three. It seems to leave a very fine finish on the paint. Before starting on the tailgate I had noticed many times that there were some water spots that were hard to get at and had been left from other details on the truck This time I took the time to make sure that the pad got into this area to treat the water spots.

Gone!! Water spots are gone. That is all I can say. Have a real nice paint surface to work with but am wondering how abbrassive can this polish be? I was under the impression that this is likened to KAIO. But the water spots that were left from previous details were treated with KAIO. Yet they still remained.

It was also mentioned that there is a learning curve to this polish. I did not see it. I am pleased with the result. But mixed up all at the same time.

How about you expert ProPolish users. Can you explain this cryptic ProPolish learning curve?
 
cwcad said:
Did some searching on the site. From this search I have recieved varying opinions of the abbrassiveness of the product. Meaning that it is very pad dependant.
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That would be my assessment of it. It can be also used with a terry applicator to remove a blemish caused by bird crap on metal siding on a house that KAIO didn't take care of.

cwcad said:
how abbrassive can this polish be? I was under the impression that this is likened to KAIO. But the water spots that were left from previous details were treated with KAIO. Yet they still remained.
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It is another of those products that I don't fully understand. It seems to be a non-abrasive chemical polish and has removed things for me that KAIO wouldn't touch. The bird crap spot I mentioned earlier.

cwcad said:
It was also mentioned that there is a learning curve to this polish. I did not see it. I am pleased with the result. But mixed up all at the same time.
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Having used polishes several times previously probably helped. You already knew to not use a large amount of product and to work it for quite some time. I didn't know there was supposed to be any "learning curve" for the ProPolish till I read about it after using it.:)

Charles
 
Well Charles I have always said that I would rather be lucky than good.

It just seemed to me that it was more than just prudent product application that I was perceiving when I read the posts.

Guess it was just in my mind.

What little I have left after reading to much into it.:D
 
you two are too funny:lmfao Kirk, you've probably read enough like Charles said that you knew more or less how to use it. Also being that you also have experience with other products that require small amounts to work with it also helped. Pro Polish can be strong or mild depending on what you want it to do and I've always said, and so have many others, that it is probably my most under-rated product. When there is a problem on my paint, glass, metal or plastic , it's always the first product I reach for:)
 
Used with a heavy cut wool pad it wil level like anything.... and it will finish out well also with a finishing pad.. We used it to go from 2000 grit sanding marks to finish at the poorboy weekend..
 
holland_patrick said:
Used with a heavy cut wool pad it wil level like anything.... and it will finish out well also with a finishing pad.. We used it to go from 2000 grit sanding marks to finish at the poorboy weekend..
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Are you serious? Really. I've been using SSR2.5, but it dusts a little more than PP.
 
Re: Poorboy's ProPolish..How aggressive is it?

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the holo's are from the wool pad..
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I saw ProPolish in action during PB's detailing day last year. I watched it used on a rotary with a wool pad to knock out wet sanding marks and then on a polishing pad to bring up the shine.
I even did a set of brass candle sticks with it and a terry towel, and it came out great.
You get different results from different pads.

"J"
 
Well after seeing how it works on the wetsanding marks, i just bought a 32 oz bottle of it to go along with the nattys i got but havent used yet.

My trucks starting to get the spider webbing, so its time to polish and wax again.

This will be my first time using the poorboys line. I'm even thinking of getting the poorboys sealant, but i don't really want to buy a whole bottle of it when i got 2 gallons of other sealants in my garage.


I want to thank cwcad for sending me a small sample of EX, he is one of the great members of this forum. He could have very well made a future sale of a gallon from steve at poorboys.
 
so the pp in some cases could be ur only step other than a lsp?? the more i read n hear bout the pb product line, the cloer i am to click the *buy now* button, haha so this product is basically as aggressive as the pad u are using with it correct? and how does the ssr's compare with the pp then? sorry for all the questions, im new to the pb line-up
 
artman4life said:
so the pp in some cases could be ur only step other than a lsp?? the more i read n hear bout the pb product line, the cloer i am to click the *buy now* button, haha so this product is basically as aggressive as the pad u are using with it correct? and how does the ssr's compare with the pp then? sorry for all the questions, im new to the pb line-up
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That is a good question.
 
I have a bottle of Pro Polish and I would swear it says non-abrasive on the label. So how does it have so much cut? The only thing I can think of is that the pad is doing most of the cutting if the polish is non-abrasive.
 
Mikeyc said:
I have a bottle of Pro Polish and I would swear it says non-abrasive on the label. So how does it have so much cut? The only thing I can think of is that the pad is doing most of the cutting if the polish is non-abrasive.
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It is a conundrum is it not?

I am still trying to get used ProPolish taking out my water spots.
 
Mikeyc said:
I have a bottle of Pro Polish and I would swear it says non-abrasive on the label. So how does it have so much cut? The only thing I can think of is that the pad is doing most of the cutting if the polish is non-abrasive.
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if the pad does most of the cuttin, wont any *polish/compound* do the same thing then, just a harder polish/compound will chew up a polish and finishing pad alot faster then right.
 
cwcad said:
It is a conundrum is it not?

I am still trying to get used ProPolish taking out my water spots.
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Yeah. It's a bit of an enigma how one gets so much cut out of a non-abrasive polish.

On a side note it is so rare that one can actually fit the words "conundrum" and "enigma" into normal conversation.
 
Poorboy said:
Pro Polish can be strong or mild depending on what you want it to do and I've always said, and so have many others, that it is probably my most under-rated product. When there is a problem on my paint, glass, metal or plastic , it's always the first product I reach for:)
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You're right, it probably is your most under-rated product....but not for me! I swear by PP and infact will have to order some for your St.Pat's day sale! I've used PP on everything from terribly water-stained glass to rims (which I actually find to work better than most metal polishes I've tried) to paint to my absolutely disgusting chrome intake pipe on my truck, which once I get the pic uploaded would be an awesome testament to this products effectiveness!
 
Mikeyc said:
Yeah. It's a bit of an enigma how one gets so much cut out of a non-abrasive polish.

On a side note it is so rare that one can actually fit the words "conundrum" and "enigma" into normal conversation.
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Sure make me take out my dictionary:stick

Ok ..we have two types of polishes
A) mechanical
B) chemical

the SSR's are mechanical ..they have gritty abrasives that breakdown as you work them into the finish. I find it best to use these with polishing pads for the most part and let the abrasive level you pick do the work.

the Professional Polish is chemical ...it does have abrasives, but they are micro-abrasive (so you really don't feel them by hand) and it also has a chemical composition that works by speed and generated heat. Pro Polish can work on fine finishes with a polishing or finishing pad to bring out gloss and chemically clean into the finish as Kirk found with his bird stains and others have seen on their metals and chrome. If you use a wool pad like seen in the pictures from Detailing Weekend it will generate enough cleaning power and heat to remove sanding marks and deep imperfections.

ok ..did that help? :)
 
lonewolf0420 said:
Is Pro Polish much more abrasive than PwC?
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PwC doesn't really cut into the finish too much due to the wax and polymers which work as lubricants and make it slick.
 
Steve,
If you were to wetsand a typical panel, with wool, would you reach for PP or a heavy SSR polish?
 
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