PoorBoy's HELP!!!

W

Wheelman916

New member
So the weather where i live finally cooled down enough for me to do a full detail of my car. It's been probably 3 or 4 months since my last full detail of this car, so I did a Dawn wash, pulled into the garage... and proceeded to open my Poorboy's products for the first time.

Now, my problem is, nothing i used today seemed to "work" as expected or as i've seen it represented online. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?! I'll walk you through the steps i took and please chime in if you see something amiss:

1: car was in my garage, out of direct sunlight. Temps were in the mid to low 70's today. Car was cool to the touch before starting.
2: Poorboy's black hole was thoroughly shaken before opening for the first time. and shaken periodically during application.
3: Application was by hand. Applicator used was a meguiar's foam applicator pad. the pad was moistened with water and wrung out before application.
4: i started by applying about a nickel sized blob of product to the applicator pad
5: i would then pick out about a 2-3sq ft section, and quickly and lightly trace an "X" with the product to help even out the application.
6. per the direction on the bottle, i would work the product in "until a shine begins to appear" which to my surprise, was very quickly, as the product seemed to soak into the paint and almost disappear.
7: the bottle says to let the product haze, but seeing as it almost completely disappeared, i simply waited a few minutes (while i applied the next section) then returned to the previous section to buff off with a microfiber towel.
8: The PB BH tho fairly hard to see on the paint, did dirty up the towels, and i went thru about 6 during removal

Now, my problem with the product is; it didn't really hide any swirls or spiderwebs. like, at all really... i was expecting much better results.

Second product: Poorboy's EX-P. Again, am i doing something wrong?
1: again, car is garaged, out of direct sunlight. Temps had cooled to the low 70's by this time
2: again, the EX-P was thoroughly shaken before opening for the first time, and shaken frequently during application.
3: again, application is by hand and done with a fresh clean meguiar's foam applicator pad. pad was also moistened before application
4: i would apply between a dime to a nickel sized blob of product to the pad
5: the EX-P went much farther per blob, and i did about a whole panel per nickel sized blob (or half of a large section, like the hood)
6: Per directions on the bottle, for a better shine, i did the whole car and let the first section set for about 30-40 minutes before buffing off (pretty much until i finished the whole car, and had a glass of water than began buffing the first section)

My problem with the EX-P, is after the 30 minute set time, the product was extremely hard to remove, and required excessive force (in my opinion) and several small sections/smears of product still remained and required a second pass with more elbow grease.

What am i doing wrong? Why did the PB BH not really do anything? Is EX-P not supposed to be allowed to set that long?

SOMEONE HELP! :wall :wall :wall I'm aware PB Products come highly recommended, so i'm assuming i did something wrong... :inspector:

Also, i had fully intended on doing 2 coats of EX-P, but the sun had set and the lighting in my garage is poor. So, can i do my second coat tomorrow? Or should i move straight to the Natty Blue?
 
Ive never used BH by hand, but I cant imagine getting big results without a machine doing the work. Im not dissing you in any way for it, Im just thinking the results your expecting out of it are results that you would get with a DA. As for your EX-P problem, Ive never been a fan of letting a product dry completely for this exact reason. I HATE cutting off dry wax or sealant. Since you've already done a good coat and let it dry before buffing like the instructions say, do another coat tomorrow and only work 1 panel at a time. Spread it, let it haze but NOT DRY, and move to the next panel. I think you'll find it to come off a lot easier and it will still look great. Yes, you may not get the full length of time out of it but you already have 1 solid coat under it so you'll be just fine.
 
You have not detailed your car in a few months and you have lots of swirls???? You should clay and use at least a light polish prior to glazing. I don't recommend priming the pad with water or anything else. Let the product prime the pad. When ever i use my porter cable with black hole, it hides VERY well!!!! I never had a problem removing EX or EX-P. It always comes off like butter even if I let it bake for 24 hours.
 
wallyStang said:
You have not detailed your car in a few months and you have lots of swirls???? You should clay and use at least a light polish prior to glazing. I don't recommend priming the pad with water or anything else. Let the product prime the pad. When ever i use my porter cable with black hole, it hides VERY well!!!! I never had a problem removing EX or EX-P. It always comes off like butter even if I let it bake for 24 hours.
Click to expand...

Yes. I've had the swirls much longer than 4 months. I have never done any paint correction. I simply hide them as best i can. I don't have any polish, or a buffer of any kind, and i've always read that swirl removal is a bear of a project to do an entire car by hand using a polish. So i've simply avoided it until i can get a DA or something. That's why i chose Black Hole as it came highly recommended for hiding imperfections.

So you think the EX-P was hard to remove because it it was applied with a moist applicator? Do you apply EX-P by hand or machine? Do you buff off by hand or machine? Everything i do is by hand for the time being.
 
Since you never polished the paint before, I would recommend Polish with carnauba BLUE by hand to at least polish the paint. All your swirls and imperfection might have some sort of grime in them so the glaze is just laying on top of the swirls and not actually filling them. All I use the machine for is for polishes, I do waxes and sealants all by hand. so try......

PwC BLUE
BH
EX-P
 
wallyStang said:
Since you never polished the paint before, I would recommend Polish with carnauba BLUE by hand to at least polish the paint. All your swirls and imperfection might have some sort of grime in them so the glaze is just laying on top of the swirls and not actually filling them. All I use the machine for is for polishes, I do waxes and sealants all by hand. so try......

PwC BLUE
BH
EX-P
Click to expand...

Yeah i've never polished before. My last major detail, probably close to a year ago, included clay and the Mother's Ultimate Wax system... Prewax cleaner, Sealer Glaze, and Carnauba, applied by hand... Swirls were present then, but the car was pretty squeaky clean. Over the last 6 months i've dawn washed and clayed the car once, and this time I just dawn washed. It had about a 4 month old 2 coat Meg's TW2.0 topped by 2 coats AG HD wax...

So in your opinion, my main problem was not applying by machine?
 
As stated the paint needs polishing or at the least clay the finish. Then BH and EX..you will see a world a difference in how the EX comes off the car.
 
Wheelman916 said:
...

So in your opinion, my main problem was not applying by machine?
Click to expand...

Cannot speak to the issue with BH, but specifically regarding EX-P and the removal problems there, no. There should be no problem applying that product by hand. I'll guess along with BB above and suggest you add the clay step given the 6 month interval. But I'm not even sure that was a huge contributor. Perhaps too heavy of an application???

I'll also agree that it isn't necessary to prime your pad with water, using the product itself (talking about EX-P again) should be sufficient. But that shouldn't have created the problem you described either.

I'll also add my opinion that adding the PwC step won't change the outcome (product removal issues) other than maybe the appearance. Unless you are particularly energetic, working the polish component of PwC or PwC requires a machine.

Finally, in the future when confronted with product that is difficult to remove, grab some a QD type product and that should make removal much easier.
 
As to the EX-P, I suspect it was applied a bit too thick (as alluded to by ronkh). It doesn't need to be thick enough to block the color of the paint (if this makes sense). Just a slight "frost" is enough. Applying it heavily just wastes product and makes removal harder.

Also, as mentioned by Mrclean81, doing section by section may be better. If you want to allow a little more drying time, you could, for example, apply EX-P to the front fender, then apply it to the front door. Then go back and buff the fender. Then apply to the rear door. Then buff the front door etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top