Polycharging Sealant

Bobby G

New member
by David W. Bynon

<font size="1">Copyright©, 1999-2002, Autopia Car Care -- All Rights Reserved</font>



Summer is tar, sap and bug season. In the summer months, bugs are at full population, trees produce more sap, and the heat softens the asphalt, producing tar balls on tires. While tar and tree sap can be difficult to remove, they do not present a threat to your paint's finish. Bug stains, like bird droppings, are very acidic and represent a significant danger to the beauty of your paint and trim. This article discusses the proper way to deal with these common detailing problems.



Road Tar

As you drive, your car is bombarded with small specks of asphalt, tire rubber, grease and oils kicked up by the cars and trucks in front of you. Left on your car's finish, these petroleum based contaminates will firmly affix themselves to every exterior surface. Soap and water washing will do little to remove these ugly black spots.



To remove road tar you need a solvent. Most commercial tar removers contain kerosene, mineral spirits or another petroleum distillate combined with lubricants to surround and buffer the road tar from your paint. Of the petroleum distillate products I've tried, Stoner Tarminator is my favorite. However, I prefer to use natural products where possible. Of the natural products I've found, Stoner XENIT, a strong citrus based cleaner, is king. XENIT removes heel marks from your doorsills, too.



Tree Sap

Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.



If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, I discovered that hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound removes the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then I can hit the sap with the mineral spirits to remove it. The light duty buffing compound softens the sap so the mineral spirits or denatured alcohol can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, I always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand-rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.



Insects

What's the last thing that goes through a bug's head when it hits your windshield? His rear end, of course! All joking aside, the head-on collision of that juicy June Bug on your car's beautiful paint and trim is far from one-sided. As the bug's exoskeleton explodes, acidic fluids are firmly imbedded in the surface of your car's paint._



Did you know that shellac is a bug byproduct? Think of it, that beautiful, old antique table you love is covered with dried bug juice (yuck!). Bug splats on your car amount to little more than shellac mixed with nasty bug parts. Any attempt to remove the catalyzed remains without the use of a special cleaning solution could result in scratched paint._



The secret to removing insect remains is to loosen and dissolve them with a solvent that will cut through the shellac. Porsche's fanatical desire to prevent paint damage resulted in the development of Porsche Tequipment Insect Remover. This citric acid based cleaning solution will gently remove even the most stubborn bug remains. For bugs with a little extra grip, Tequipment Insect Remover includes a special cleaning sponge. P21S Total Auto Wash and a special bug sponge also work exceptionally well.



If you have a particularly large bug mess, I have discovered a trick that seems to work pretty well. If you use a pre-wax cleaner, such as Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion or P21S Cleansing Lotion, apply a small dab to the offending bug splat. Next, cover the spot with a wadded up tissue. Let it sit for a few minutes, then pinch up the mess and give it a soft wipe with the back side of the tissue. Voila! The bug mess is gone._



After Removing Tar, Sap & Bugs

All of the chemicals used to remove the aforementioned road stains also remove your wax or sealants. After removing tar, sap or bugs, plan to spot wax or re-wax your vehicle. If you don't have time to wax right away, use a quick detailing spray that contains wax. Eagle One's Wet Spray Wax, a quick spray wax, is great for this kind of spot waxing, too. _



<font size="1">All products mentioned in this article are available from Classic Motoring Accessories and are used at the buyer's own risk.  Autopia Car Care is not affiliated with and does not represent Classic Motoring Accessories or the manufacturers of the products mentioned.</font>
 
Just got this wax booster a couple weeks ago, so far have tried them on Megs M21, NXT 2.0, Menzerna Power Lock, Pinnacle Liquid Souveran, Blackfire WDAFPP Polycharged... and to my observation they actually do have added value in terms of curing time & looks...

They haze much quicker, about 10min or less... so half the regular hazing time, enhancing the basic qualities each sealant deliver.... and through my eyes they kinda wear thick, like putting a thin layer above the paint.

Tried this on FK425 quick detailer as well and they also thicken a bit..

So overall i'm quite satisfied with polycharger....
 
That's way we are the only company that has Polycharger in our Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection Sealant and alot of the other Blackfire products in our line. It's a great product to have in one's detailing supplies.
 
Yeah..the BF Sealant actually can be polycharged some more.. added maybe 1/2 to 3/4 doze into the already polycharged version and didn't ruin it... i thought it looks great on black, but this BF on steroid looks as amazing in silver....
 

Attachments

  • beforeback.jpg
    beforeback.jpg
    78.3 KB · Views: 150
I remember first reading about PC a while ago and thought it was hype. However I have used it (added to the existing Wet Diamond) and found that durability and ease of use was improved.
 
I just took a glimpse of my polycharged BFWD after added dose, and surprisingly it didn't ruin it after 2x24h, it separated the clear liquid on the top but they still mix well after a good shake. Might try it on a test panel in a day or two whether it'll still hold
 
Update on BFWD polychaged... just did 2nd layer of BFWD and i added extra dose of polycharger on both layers. Definitely brought something different, an extra glow to my eyes. On the leftover polycharged i left it for about a week, and doesn't seem to ruin it? The color darken a bit, greenish blue, and some clear liquid separate on top, but nothing like a good shake would put them back together. Application doesn't seem to be any harder/easier either. So would polycharger claim still true that it doesn't last over 24h on mixed batch?
 
Back
Top