Polishing Aluminum (I think)??

3 to 4 capfuls of Klasse SG is quite a bit of product. I'm sure you got excellent results, but that's more than enough product to apply it the traditional way and assuring proper application and drying time needed for it to fully cure. With that said, I would like to see a pic of a car with no products on it that has only been washes and then had Klasse SG as a quick detailer. Interesting.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Don2000g [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>3 to 4 capfuls of Klasse SG is quite a bit of product. I'm sure you got excellent results, but that's more than enough product to apply it the traditional way and assuring proper application and drying time needed for it to fully cure.[/b]</blockquote>
I see your point Don. However, if you look at it in terms of cost, it's actually a quite cheap QD that lays down additional protection and shine.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by waxman [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>3-4 capfuls and the rest water in a Meguiars Quick Detailer sprayer. [/b]</blockquote>
How many cars can you QD with the above mentioned formulation? I agree with Don that 3-4 capfulls is enough to do one car the traditional way. BUT, if you can do multiple cars with that bottle, then it'd definately be worth it.

Don, don't you agree?
 
Waxman, are you saying that using this mixture will actually lay down another coat of KSG?



I might be wrong, but aren't we comparing apples to oranges here? I would think that using a Sealant Glaze based QDer isn't going to lay down a coat of SG in the traditional sense. It would be more like using a low-cost QD spray that replenishes your Klasse coat similar to the way Sonus High Gloss Acrylic Spritz does, as it has some Klasse in it, IMO. Another similar example would be the way carnauba based QD's do not lay down a coat of carnauba the same way applying a coat of Souveran would. Just replenishes existing carnauba.
 
Tony, I agree that these home made QD's will only replenish the current layer of protection. But with that said, they are still an excellent way to retain gloss and slickness. That's one of the things klasse doesn't have that zaino does, that being a QD specifically made for it's system. The second thing would be a carwash solution.



I' wonder what would happen if someone were to mix a bit of SG into any bottle of carwash soap. Would that help with gloss and slickness when washing like Zaino wash does?



Sal must put some Z2 in his carwash solution. I don't see how it can be so effective at maintianing gloss and slickness without it.
 
I think what Don is trying to say that if you use more oz of SG in a sprayer than you do normally applying (and spray that much on a panel) it then you are in essence apply SG in a higher total amount.



This gives evidence that you might be able to get a significant amount on there except you have to wait for the water to evaporate (and assume that it doesn't just mostly go in to the towel) I would think that yeah, you could spray it on but you'd have to wait till it dries if you want the Klasse to actually put down a significant layer comperable to the normal application.



Just thinking out loud again - :)
 
I don't care what you guys are theorizing!!! :) I tried it on my car and I think the results are great!!!! :) Try it yourself instead of trying to think of what it does and should do. :) It replenishes your SG and leaves a super smooth slick shiny surface. I only do it after washing and is a lot faster than reapplying and waiting for the SG to dry. Just wipe on, let soak for a few seconds and wipe off. I have been using this trick for months and have not applied another coat of SG and it still beads like crazy.

No 3-4 capfuls in 16oz is not for one car. It lasts a couple of months. It is just the mixture I use. 3-4 ounces may sound like too much. Try less. I just found at least three capfuls in 16oz seems to leave a good shine.
 
Steve, you're pretty accurate with your assessment buddy. Yeah, 3-4 capfuls seems a bit excessive to be used as a quick detailer. I would prefer to use that amount the traditional way. You could very well get 1-2 complete coats with that amount.



Waxman, I'm sure your quick detail experiment is fine. I'm sure that on some sense, you are going to layer down or replenish the Klasse SG coat a bit with your quick detailing. It's just that it won't be too durable. In my opinion, I would just rather get two full coats the traditional way. This way I know that I applied it correctly and am assured that it will last a good 6 months. If I was stinkin rich and had money to spend then I'm sure I would try this quick detailing approach a bit more though. Laters
 
I normally use the Viking foam apps to apply AIO and SG, but have any of you tried this method that I found on the CMA site?:



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"Take a dry Viper Microfiber Detailing Cloth (not the Glass Cloth) and fold it until it’s palm sized (5� to 6� square). Lightly mist the cloth with Eagle One Wet Wipe N’ Shine. Apply a dab of All-In-One to the cloth about the size of a nickel. Apply to one section of the car at a time (i.e. a door, 1/2 of the top, etc.). You’ll notice that it wipes on very easily (thanks to the lubricating action of the Wet Wipe N’ Shine) and leaves virtually no residue. When you’re done with one section, take a second, dry Viper Detailing Cloth and re-wipe the area to remove any residual residues."



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Is this any different that taking a normal MF applicator to apply Klasse? It seems that the above instructions would waste too much product.
 
Hey Intermezzo,



IMO using a regular microfiber towel for AIO application would be somewhat wasteful. I personally like to use a slightly damp rinsed-and-wrung microfiber app that came with my little Klasse kit from YoSteve's.



When the pad starts drying up I give it a little spritz of Final Inspection (or any other non-carnauba and non-silicone QD) which really seems to do a good job making the product go further. It moistens the dried out AIO residue on the applicator and works well to help spread it.



Basically, I don't really see a real benefit to using a MF towel for application but I don't really see anything wrong with it other than the product waste so long as you don't rub the towel into the paint excessively.
 
bum, you forget that you can use a mini-mf for Klasse application as well, I like the ability to get into the corners with the AIO, just makes sure to clean the applicator often.
 
Hey guys, I have a question for the experts. My wife has a XC90 Sport that has these silver, what appears to be, aluminum skirts that run down the side. See below. Well, I've noticed for a while that they looked like they needed cleaned up, but I assumed they were plastic for some reason (the other pieces on the car that color are) well, i busted out the clay bar and was going to give them a nice claying, then polish with M205. Well, I hit the first part with the clay and realized it wasn't painted and it wasn't plastic. Turns out, it's aluminum, I'm pretty sure anyway. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it's not smooth, it's grooved, kind of. I guess a standard metal/aluminum polish would work, any suggestions on what's the best?

TIA!

HPIM0562.jpg


IMG_4810.jpg
 
Subscribed.

Have you tried Klasse AIO?

No, I haven't tried anything yet actually other than a tiny bit with a clay bar. I'm not sure what direction to go on this. If it was smooth, I would think I could just polish it like anything else, but the textured aluminum seems like it might be a challenge.
 
I am 99% sure that panel is made of plastic :Snowman:

It could be, but it sure doesn't feel like it, it feels just like aluminum. All of the other silver colored pieces on the car are for sure plastic, but this one is totally different, I'm pretty sure it's metal.

I'll try doing a small section with some never dull, thanks!
 
IF it is aluminum it probably is clear coated. To have bare aluminum that low to the ground just doesn't seem like a good engineering design. Road salt spray and constant water spray would pit and oxidize the finish quickly.

Try any abrasive polish with a towel and do a little area. If the polish turns the towel black or really dark gray it is bare metal, if not you are dealing with plastic or clear coated aluminum.

That harder part will be differentiate between plastic and clearcoated paint. I would suggest contacting the dealer or somebody like Adam (Harelyguy) who is familiar with Volvo's.

Hope this helps

Todd
 
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