Polishes vs. Compounds experiments

R

RAG

New member
I have a theory that compounds aren't that much stronger than polishes (based on past observations and playing with my ETG).



Today I had some extra time and a black vehicle on hand so I decided to do some experimenting with my new Four Star light and medium compounds; I compared them to HTEC/OP and PO106FF to test for cut and finish left using white LCVC pads. After polishing each quadrant twice, I found that the finish left (depth of swirls), were about the same among the three compounds (of course 106ff was much better). I also could not see a difference in the amount of defect removed, though the halograms were masking things. So I decided to take a green P2 and polish each area 2 more times using PO106ff to clean thing up. Afterwards, each quadrant appeared to be about 90% defect-free...so basically I could not see a difference in defect removal between 106ff, HTEC/OP, and the 4-star compounds. The only thing I have found to give noticably greater cut is a wool pad.



Justed wanted to share my findings.
 
Interesting, I think that it is much more important to experiment with products(when doing a test spot) so that you can find out the best combo for the paint that you are working on. As you know, some paints will correct very easily with a medium compound and a gentle polishing pad, while others need the same pad, but a different product. It's all about finding the right combo for the specific paint that you are working on.



Lately, I have been correcting some pretty trashed paint with just SIP/green pad, then PO106FF--that's a great combo for 80% of cars.



I can't detail without PO106FF--it's such a timesaver, I am glad that I can buy gallons from AG now.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Interesting, I think that it is much more important to experiment with products(when doing a test spot) so that you can find out the best combo for the paint that you are working on. As you know, some paints will correct very easily with a medium compound and a gentle polishing pad, while others need the same pad, but a different product. It's all about finding the right combo for the specific paint that you are working on.



Lately, I have been correcting some pretty trashed paint with just SIP/green pad, then PO106FF--that's a great combo for 80% of cars.



I can't detail without PO106FF--it's such a timesaver, I am glad that I can buy gallons from AG now.
Click to expand...



Again, I feel your dead on. It's funny how you can tell if someone really knows their stuff based on their feedback, and I can say with certainty that you're on it brother! I'm constantly leaning and experimenting, even though I've got hundreds (if not thousands) of hours of experimentation time alone under my belt. Every paint is different.



Though I know a good compound will have more cut than a polish, I seriously think its usually only a 10-20% difference, as much of the cut via rotary simply comes from the heat and friction (especially when using the closed cell orange and white lake country pads).
 
is that why some people use OP for every step, but change out from a wool pad to a light cutting pad to a polishing pad?



and is 106ff really all that worth the price tag? I cant get myself to pull the trigger on it...I have too many other polishes that I need to use up before I buy more...
 
I think this is kinda pointless. Some company's call all their products compounds and some call them polishes and some a mix of both.
 
I pretty much agree. I think most could get by with one compound and one finishing polish and just change pads depending on the need for correcting. I recently tried HTEC with a Megs yellow polishing pad and a rotary and was surprised how nicely it finished. I finished with a polish just to get a bit higher gloss.
 
I use OP for 90% of everything when doing paint correction.



Ussually its like this:



wool=OP

foam=OP

finishing foam=OP

LSP



Works 90% of the time. The other 10% i have to use a fine polish like megs #82 or XMT 1 with the PC. Obviously on soft paints is when i have to do this.
 
I've only got Hyper and OP in my cabinent now, I got tired of trying to sort through a dozen different products multiplied by 8-10 companies.
 
106FF is worth every cent IMO. All I know is that compounds remove more defects and are more likely to hologram but don't restore the gloss like a 2000 to 3000 grit soft polish and white to blue LC pads will.



Finishing polish at 1200 and then 850 rpm to finish is the ultimate for me.
 
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