My black 39 Ford has soft soft paint I use RMG. If I need a little more cut I will mix VM and RMG or maybe YM and VM. I also use my PC and Blue or Black pad. I also can use 85rd on white or blue and reduce the amount of pressure to just the weight of the machine for the final passes.
Thank you! Those were my thoughts too. I am already putting order together for "softer than white" pads. I know where to get them in 5".
Does anybody know where to get "softer than white" in 4"?
I do have 85RD and RMG so I can give that a shot. I will try to get 1Z MP Pro. However, I would like to see more entries on the list of polishes that would fit the task.
I wasn't getting hooks, it was more like small line here and small line there. Funny thing is I switched from PC (well, UDM) to Cyclo with white Cyclo pads and results were bit better but still no complete success.
Those random marring lines make me wonder about the product being lumpy/etc.
themightytimmah- Yeah, those three products you mentioned are very good for this sort of thing.
And that's a good point about always correcting soft paint instead of using the dreaded (by some ) fillers. The Jag's lacquer was nice and soft...easy to correct...so easy that after >25 years I've polished it to death and can't do any more correction. Those soft paints are gonna wear with continual polishing.
You gotta try the 1Z WaxPolishSoft sometime, I'd like to hear what you think of it.
Me too, that is why I asked. I know AG carries them in 4" blue and gray CCS. CMA has them in 4" red CCS. Excel Detail has ExcelErasure 4" blue but I don't know where that stacks up on "aggresiveness" scale.
Anybody else that carries 4" in gray/blue/red?
Accumulator said:
Those random marring lines make me wonder about the product being lumpy/etc.
I have a Black Lexus 06 SC430 that is stupid soft. I finish with the rotary and either Menzerna FPII or Micro Polish and a LC black (or grey) pad at 600-1200-600 RPM. I use the old LC pads with the rounded edges, not the sharp-edged CCS pads. Maybe I'm crazy, but I feel like the sharp edges on the CCS pads instill light swirls that show up as holograms.
I have used KAIO on a finish pad with my PC with success on my Acura ss paint. It is enough to remove wash induced swirls. It does not leave it perfect, but it's the best compromise.
I will not call you crazy as I was wondering the same thing and even asked SpoiledMan could that be contributor (or one of contributors) to the problem. And it is not just edge that I was wondering about but even more intersection of edge and "pocket" that results in "saw tooth" looking edge.
I was also wondering whether dimple inside pocket might be causing it and was also wondering whether pocket is grabbing and holding some dried polish causing micromarring.
These are questions I would like to see definite answers on for obvious reasons.
*ANY* pad with dried polish will cause marring. *I* have had no experience with dried polish in the pockets of CCS pads at all. Based on my experience I'd have to say that you're having "process" issues. Too much product maybe? Not working it properly?
Z, the backing plate being smaller than the pad will cause the pad to "mushroom" slightly and the edges will have much less pressure applied and in many cases (depending on BP size) not even be in contact with the paint.
Possible. I have tried to see what I am doing wrong and I have varied pressure and arm speed and how long I work it but I could not notice difference in final result when it comes are those small lines here and there left or not. They were always left. :nixweiss
We are planning to meet regarding Metabo once you are back so that might be the best time to figure that out, million words can not replace five minutes of hands-on check.
SpoiledMan said:
Z, the backing plate being smaller than the pad will cause the pad to "mushroom" slightly and the edges will have much less pressure applied and in many cases (depending on BP size) not even be in contact with the paint.
That is why I wondered should I try using pads that are 6.5" and thicker. I am using 5" thinner pads with 4.75" plate, practically all the pressure is getting transfered.
This might not be a popular view here, but I like something with some filling for super-soft clears. Why spend an extra hour or two polishing with an oil-less polish when the marring is going to be re-introduced before the fillers even get a chance to wear off?
This is the key to working with soft paint!! Lots of fillers. Another very important thing is to use proper techniques. Keep it clean/flat/moderate speed and step it down to the softest final finishing pad possible. The next hardest thing to do after you fully correct the finish is then maintaining it. It's bound to be a never ending battle. Make sure to keep a constant build up of LSP on it too.
) fillers. The Jag's lacquer was nice and soft...easy to correct...so easy that after >25 years I've polished it to death and can't do any more correction. Those soft paints are gonna wear with continual polishing.
