Polish/polishers, time to up my game. Let’s talk

If you don`t load up a pad with too much of anything wet, and don`t turn it on to higher rpms from the start, you don`t get splatter...

If you put too much product on the pad and realize it after you started off slow, you should just spread it out farther on the panel, and that will take up more of it so when you might speed up the machine, it will not throw a bunch of product out all over the place..
Even on the L/C Purple Wool Foam Pads I use only for really hard defects, all Airplane paint, etc...
I never get splatter because I choose to not make it happen.. :)

Then, the other end of it - dusting - Why? :)
Just don`t let it dry out and then you have no dusting...
I never get dusting either.. :)

If one will take the time to almost completely or completely use up all the product on a foam pad and keep the pad flat on the panel the entire time, there is less chance of leaving anything on the paint except perfectly clear, flat, gloss...
If one sees defects in the paintwork while you are doing it, don`t you want to work on those defects until they are gone ?
This where great lighting really helps..

I keep the speed below 1,000, so there is more time for the product, pad, and paint, to get to know each other the longest, and not dry out quickly.. Sometimes when I see the work starting to dry and hear and feel the machine starting to change, I stop and spray a little pad conditioner on the spot and keep going until the everything is about gone on that spot.

The pad picks up whatever is left, and I take a white clean towel and wipe the pad face down and look at what came off..
This allows the pad to go longer on the work until it may eventually get too much dead paint etc., in it, and it soaked up too much pad conditioner, product, and it no longer works as when I started, so I change it out..

The panel I just corrected has very little if any product left on it, so when I wipe it off with a clean soft microfiber, there is very little chance to introduce something onto that spot that I just made perfect.. Less you touch it, the better..
Dan F
 
I don’t want to make it any harder to select from but makita has a forced rotation that switch back and forth between forced and normal da with a flip of a switch. The only reason I find this nice is if you need a break from controlling the forced rotation or want to zone out for a panel or put a sealant on you don’t get the work out of the forced rotation. It is also cheaper than flex or rupes forced machines.
 
Stokdgs said:
Welcome to the Forum !

Pad Rotation is what corrects paintwork.. It always has.. This is why all the manufacturers of anything painted in all the auto, boat, truck airplane, ambulance, 18-wheelers, and on and on, use Rotary Power to finish their painted products initially, and on down the assembly line, catch and fix things that either got somehow missed, or happened on the assembly line..

It takes the Will to want to learn how to use Rotary Power, and then you have to learn either because you are highly motivated and innovative, or all these, and have someone with gray hair mentor you.. :)

Yes, there are some people who are going out and showing some manufacturers of painted things that these random orbitals of today can actually turn out the same quality as Rotary Power, and I hope they do just that..

But for things like gelcoat on Boats, Imron, or whatever is the paint today on Airplanes, where you are working hard with a big rotary, grinding that finish down so it is perfect, I seriously doubt that any of these little motor machines would last a week before they blew up from overheating, etc...

For example, my best friend, the Best Boat Detailer in all of Seattle, WA and the surrounding areas, routinely blows up the biggest baddest DeWalt Rotaries on Boat gelcoat all the time.. And he even got to work directly with DeWalt to help them design things into that big Yellow Beast to help it work better and last longer.. And I have seen his Perfect, Flat, Glossy, Clear, Swirl and Hologram free work on big Black Boats in direct sunlight..Blinding would be putting it mildly..

Certainly, machines that are not Direct Drive like Rotary machines, will work just fine.. It just may take a lot longer, and perhaps some defects may not want to come out as easy as they do with Rotary Power.. Then, most vibrate a lot. And you may be limited on the size of backing plates and pads..

A Rotary can use a little spacer ( https://www.autopia-carcare.com/buff-and-shine-rotary-backing-plate-extension.html#.YJCyxdWpH3g) to give you the ability to get into smaller places, see the work easier around the pad, and they make backing plates and pads down to 1 inch/diameter for this machine..

And contrary to popular belief, you Can use this process to make really clear, flat, glossy, hologram, swirl, etc., free paintwork.. If this were not so, every painted vehicle would come from the factories swirled, hologrammed, etc., all over.. If you have ever watched new vehicles unloaded from the truck at say, your favorite BMW Dealer, then you see perfect, clear, flat, glossy paintwork on those Bimmers straight off the Ship that came from the port, from the Factory in Germany..

If you are really interested in making this work for your particular needs, expectations, then you will also need to acquire great lighting, good microfiber towels, pads - lots of them, and great cleaners for just these 2 things alone.. Then there are all the other things needed to clean, recondition, etc., all the other parts of the vehicle/s inside, the engine and compartment, the entire trunk, and on and on...

Good luck with your research and project !
Dan F
Click to expand...

I`ve been watching a lot of Brian at Apex Detail`s YT videos lately and he recommends learning the rotary and also those extensions you linked too. I`ll be getting some of those. I went out and bought the $40 rotary he recommends from Harbor Freight and went to a body shop to get some panels to practice on. The paint guy there with about 40 years experience gave me a tour of the place and taught me a lot. He pulled out one of their many rotary machines (that`s all they use) and demonstrated on one of the panels. He started with 2500 grit sand paper and then the Dewalt (they also have Milwaukee) with a wool pad that had dried compound on it. He turned it over, turned it on, and then used a flat head screw driver to clean it. Buffed it out in a few seconds to a mirror finish. I was impressed and am going to hang out there more to learn all I can.
 
William_Wallace said:
I don’t want to make it any harder to select from but makita has a forced rotation that switch back and forth between forced and normal da with a flip of a switch. The only reason I find this nice is if you need a break from controlling the forced rotation or want to zone out for a panel or put a sealant on you don’t get the work out of the forced rotation. It is also cheaper than flex or rupes forced machines.
Click to expand...


You probably should list the model number. Makita makes several different RO`s.
 
If your going free spinning go rupes big foot MK series--21mm /w5"pads
Forced rotation route would be the flex 3401

These are tried & true machines that the very best detailers use

As far as no stain products-- I know PA stuff doesn`t stain
 
jem7sk -- Thanks for your post ! I hope you and yours are all safe and well, and are all getting past this virus thing..
I have had shot-1 of 2 of the Pfizer vaccine and it was fine.. Worked really hard after the shot, and my upper arm did not hurt until late that night, and then all the next day.. Then the flu-shot-like-pain went away, just the like the flu shot used to do.. I quit getting the flu shot a couple decades ago I think.. Never got the flu either.. :)

I have not watched Brian at Apex very much, but I hear a lot of positive feedback about him..

You only need 1 of these spacers for your Rotary.. Yes, you can connect as many as you want, but the spinning physics of the extra length will make it much harder to control the spinning backing plate and pad because of the longer distance to the machine..
So, you are constantly adjusting for that reaction..

I have had great success with just that 1 smaller spacer + backing plate + the pad, and that is all I have ever needed.. Easy to work with, and control..

I only use 5" backing plates and pads for 99% of all the paintwork, except for the small A, B,/C pillars between the side windows, etc... or perhaps that little painted strip across the top of some back glass like my `09 Grand Cherokee, etc.. On those narrow places I switch to a 3 or 4 inch backing plate and pad..

Auto Paint and Body Shops = been there, done that on the Painting Side of it.. :) Loved it.. :)

They are working on the clock, have only so much "time" =$$ to spend on the final compound/polish, clean it up, etc., the Painter/s or their Apprentices, get to do all that final work before the Client picks up the vehicle..

Some of them can paint just beautifully, and never screw up, and I never worked with any that jacked up the paint at the compound polish stage either..

The Owners of some shops for some reason, like to take in too much work and make everyone work harder and faster which of course, can lead to some quality control issues, if not caught before the Client arrives..

Some shops are more "Custom" shops rather than "Production" shops, and the Custom shops usually get more time to really make sure the paint is perfectly applied, and then compounded and polished out perfectly...

It was a maddening pace at the 2 places I worked at.. Then they introduced the infamous highly toxic urethane paint to the industry and I had to say bye bye..

I am glad you found a Shop and a nice guy that took the time to show you how compounding with Rotary Power is done !! A very well experienced Mentor is always a great source of learning and hands-on experiences...
Nothing better... That is how learned this as a kid at my Dad`s shops..

I loved the work, and was so Blessed to later in life, go back to the very thing I really always wanted to do!! Detailing !!! All of it !!!!! :)

Hope you learn much and like it...

I guess the very Key to success with this big, heavy, powerful, but very smooth running machine is to do what the one of the very best compounds and polishes from 3M way back when, said on the bottle --- you have to learn how to - "Finesse-It".. Smooth movements, control, looking at the work, evaluating it constantly, watching, listening, for changes from the beginning to the end..

Does it/can it take longer?? Perhaps, depending on so many factors.. There will never be just one, set, way...

So, if you like to be challenged a little, sometimes more than a little, can handle carrying a 10lb+ weight around all day, while it is spinning and trying to move away from you, this could be fun !
If you really learn how to - balance - this thing all day long, with it`s weight and torque, and find that great place, I can promise you that you will not be disappointed.. :)

Good Luck !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
jem7sk -- Thanks for your post ! I hope you and yours are all safe and well, and are all getting past this virus thing..
I have had shot-1 of 2 of the Pfizer vaccine and it was fine.. Worked really hard after the shot, and my upper arm did not hurt until late that night, and then all the next day.. Then the flu-shot-like-pain went away, just the like the flu shot used to do.. I quit getting the flu shot a couple decades ago I think.. Never got the flu either.. :)

I have not watched Brian at Apex very much, but I hear a lot of positive feedback about him..

You only need 1 of these spacers for your Rotary.. Yes, you can connect as many as you want, but the spinning physics of the extra length will make it much harder to control the spinning backing plate and pad because of the longer distance to the machine..
So, you are constantly adjusting for that reaction..

I have had great success with just that 1 smaller spacer + backing plate + the pad, and that is all I have ever needed.. Easy to work with, and control..

I only use 5" backing plates and pads for 99% of all the paintwork, except for the small A, B,/C pillars between the side windows, etc... or perhaps that little painted strip across the top of some back glass like my `09 Grand Cherokee, etc.. On those narrow places I switch to a 3 or 4 inch backing plate and pad..

Auto Paint and Body Shops = been there, done that on the Painting Side of it.. :) Loved it.. :)

They are working on the clock, have only so much "time" =$$ to spend on the final compound/polish, clean it up, etc., the Painter/s or their Apprentices, get to do all that final work before the Client picks up the vehicle..

Some of them can paint just beautifully, and never screw up, and I never worked with any that jacked up the paint at the compound polish stage either..

The Owners of some shops for some reason, like to take in too much work and make everyone work harder and faster which of course, can lead to some quality control issues, if not caught before the Client arrives..

Some shops are more "Custom" shops rather than "Production" shops, and the Custom shops usually get more time to really make sure the paint is perfectly applied, and then compounded and polished out perfectly...

It was a maddening pace at the 2 places I worked at.. Then they introduced the infamous highly toxic urethane paint to the industry and I had to say bye bye..

I am glad you found a Shop and a nice guy that took the time to show you how compounding with Rotary Power is done !! A very well experienced Mentor is always a great source of learning and hands-on experiences...
Nothing better... That is how learned this as a kid at my Dad`s shops..

I loved the work, and was so Blessed to later in life, go back to the very thing I really always wanted to do!! Detailing !!! All of it !!!!! :)

Hope you learn much and like it...

I guess the very Key to success with this big, heavy, powerful, but very smooth running machine is to do what the one of the very best compounds and polishes from 3M way back when, said on the bottle --- you have to learn how to - "Finesse-It".. Smooth movements, control, looking at the work, evaluating it constantly, watching, listening, for changes from the beginning to the end..

Does it/can it take longer?? Perhaps, depending on so many factors.. There will never be just one, set, way...

So, if you like to be challenged a little, sometimes more than a little, can handle carrying a 10lb+ weight around all day, while it is spinning and trying to move away from you, this could be fun !
If you really learn how to - balance - this thing all day long, with it`s weight and torque, and find that great place, I can promise you that you will not be disappointed.. :)

Good Luck !
Dan F
Click to expand...

Thanks for the post Dan! What 5" backing plate and pads do you recommend for the rotary? The guy at the shop mentioned using a polisher in the "old" days that was very heavy and had two handles to hold on too... he said with regular wax and the weight of the machine the cars would come out great. They don`t make it anymore but I have no idea what machine he was talking about... ever seen or used one of those? He talked like it was super heavy.
 
Most ( not all ) of the rotaries are heavy compared to the DA`s i/e Dewalt , 3M , Makita- now my flex is an exception to that as it`s light by comparison
 
jem7sk said:
Thanks for the post Dan! What 5" backing plate and pads do you recommend for the rotary? The guy at the shop mentioned using a polisher in the "old" days that was very heavy and had two handles to hold on too... he said with regular wax and the weight of the machine the cars would come out great. They don`t make it anymore but I have no idea what machine he was talking about... ever seen or used one of those? He talked like it was super heavy.
Click to expand...



A 2 handled Rotary polisher? Does it takes 2 people to operate?I
 
For me it`s simple...

Rupes 21 with a 5" Backing Plate. This is my go-to combo for a tool and BP. Click Here

I have started using the Rupes "system" Blue, Yellow, White with 5" Pads and matching Polishes.
Rupes 21 is easy on the body (vs. a forced rotation 3401 etc.), safer on the paint, and does a GREAT job!
 
Merlin said:
For me it`s simple...

Rupes 21 with a 5" Backing Plate. This is my go-to combo for a tool and BP. Click Here

I have started using the Rupes "system" Blue, Yellow, White with 5" Pads and matching Polishes.
Rupes 21 is easy on the body (vs. a forced rotation 3401 etc.), safer on the paint, and does a GREAT job!
Click to expand...

No professional but its nice to see professionals using the new rupes system. I really enjoy the yellow pad and yellow polish combo on my toyota, removed some relatively difficult defects and finished down to a mirror shine!

I have the first gen. G15 from griots which i really enjoy using.
 
jem7sk --
There are lots of backing plates out there made by everyone..
I have used a lot of Lake Country Yellow Backing Plates, from the 5 inch diameter size down to 1 inch, they are battle tested and fine for me..
I try to stick to "known for years products" with a great track record and just keep it there.. No need or desire to pursue the "flavor or the month", thank you.. :)

Pads - have tried many and have the best all around performance with again, Lake Country pads.. They are made in Wisconsin for decades..
They have gone through a lot of different ones, since the foam for pads also evolved over the decades, improved, and continues to improve..

A long time ago, they made this type called Hydro-Tech, which I tried and really liked.. These did not readily absorb liquid, which meant they would work longer before they eventually did, and once they got them sorted out, they did a great job for me with my 10lb+ Makita 9227 Rotary..

They only come in 3 colors = types, so it was so much easier to deal with..

And for me, they always worked great.. I could put a lot of downward pressure on the Makita at the correction process, and they could take it all day long and not break down.. Use the Cyan (Blue) pad for all "normal" correction, and the Tangerine (Orange) for lighter correction or even finishing polishing..
That`s it ! I get perfect, clear, flat, glossy results every time..

Now, there are a Lot of great pad makers available here at the Autopia Store, and many love them too, and get excellent results from them..
I just prefer to keep it simple, keep costs controlled as best as possible, and have learned how to make these 2 color pads do anything I want with Rotary Power..

Their 3rd color - Crimson (Red), is only great for applying the LSP, whatever you may want to apply after all the paint correction and wipe down is completed..
I hardly ever do that because I cannot see wasting a pad on an LSP that will be pretty hard to remove, and use again with a different LSP, so I just dont do that..
Others, may not see it as I do, that is fine..

For really bad paint defects, for sure, Airplanes, those giant long vans, etc., I use another Lake Country Product = Purple Foam Wool pad.. This throws out less wool everywhere, and can really correct great and leave a nice finish afterwards, using my Makita... I will use a heavier compound of course if needed, with this pad. You have to be careful with anything wool, etc., pad because with a heavier compound like Meguiars 105, etc., this pad, a little moisture, and a Rotary, on most paint, it will cut down really fast, so you have to be aware of that and try to take as little clearcoat off to just get the defects out if possible...
Then, you still will have to come back with a Polish to get that paint back to perfectly clear, flat, and glossy... So you are probably removing a little more in microns, of clear coat... The idea is to not take off too much of an unknown number of microns of clear coat ever..

Now, over at the Auto Paint and Body Place, the Painter/s know how much paint+clearcoat they applied over their work, and we all apply A Lot on purpose, so we can remove it to get a really great finish and know there is still a lot left over...

On a Factory Painted car, not knowing how much may have already been removed, you have to be much more careful..

A good, Total Paint Thickness Meter would help you here, by telling you the total thickness of Everything on that spot on the panel in microns, and if it is over 100+ microns there is a chance that correcting it carefully you will be ok.. https://www.autopia-carcare.com/highline-meter-ii-paint-thickness-gauge.html#.YJG4FNWpH3g

What I like to do is measure before, then do the work on that spot and measure again.. Did I remove a lot of microns or not? How many did I remove?
The less you remove to get to the required level of correction is always going to be subjective, so think about that also.. There is not a set in stone way for this most important part either... All Paint work is different, even on the same vehicle, some panels, parts may be repainted, some not...

The Meter will tell you before you start, where there is a LOT of thickness,(compared to the areas around it) which usually indicates there was repair work done there and there might be a lot of Bondo or something, hopefully a lot of paint too, but you cannot just assume there is a lot of paint... For sure, places like that you have to be more careful and aware of.. Great lighting from overhead and the sides, really helps to see better..

I have seen a lot of Rotaries over decades, cannot remember all the ones I saw and used as a kid, but they were big and heavy for sure..
Never saw one that had 2 handles, like one on each side.. All the ones I have used of course, the body of the machine is for one hand, and another handle if you want, can be attached over the top of it, or out either side of it..
I am one who likes and understands - Leverage - and am really good with one hand on the body/trigger area of my Makita and the other hand on a handle that screws into the side of the Makita... I get great leverage for me, and with the spacer, I can still get more easily into smaller places if needed.

My Boat Detailer friend uses no extra handles on his big DeWalts; prefers to just put the other hand down on the back of the top of it to help control it..

The only machines I can think of that came with places for 2 handles around the machine were those awful things they sold at Sears, etc., that were supposed to be some kind of buffer or something... My Father in Law had one of those awful things, and it never did anything good.. They had these cloth things for pads that you tied onto the backing plate, which I assume was never going to be but one size - 6 inches.. :(
Dan F
 
I’m gonna buy some rupes new da pads. Good for long throw, or forced. Getting 5” for now so,they will work with my current machine. Still deciding on what machine.

‘’so now the question is what compounds to buy, and what pads, and how many?

do I need corse and fine compound? Coarse and fine pads? Wool pads? (Rupes brand)

and I’m still confused. If rotation does the correcting then why sell random? Just sell forced. Rupes says orbit is like 75% or more of,the correcting and rotation isn’t as important, BUT very good point about new cars and bodywork gets done with rotary.

so confusing
 
Stokdgs said:
I have not watched Brian at Apex very much, but I hear a lot of positive feedback about him..

You only need 1 of these spacers for your Rotary.. Yes, you can connect as many as you want, but the spinning physics of the extra length will make it much harder to control the spinning backing plate and pad because of the longer distance to the machine..
So, you are constantly adjusting for that reaction..
Click to expand...

Hey Dan, I just wanted to post this video by Brian of Apex Detail (one of several he has done on the rotary) where he is using several of those spacers stacked together where he says they are machined perfectly and he gets no vibration. I`m just posting to give cudos to Autopia and Apex more than anything and your post reminded me of the video.

If this doesn`t automatically go to 4:38.. that is where he is using multiple spacers. He has fashioned a rubber tube around them to keep from scratching anything if he bumps it.

https://youtu.be/tfwUJdk2blM?t=278
 
nan_wpg said:
I’m gonna buy some rupes new da pads. Good for long throw, or forced. Getting 5” for now so,they will work with my current machine. Still deciding on what machine.

‘’so now the question is what compounds to buy, and what pads, and how many?

do I need corse and fine compound? Coarse and fine pads? Wool pads? (Rupes brand)

and I’m still confused. If rotation does the correcting then why sell random? Just sell forced. Rupes says orbit is like 75% or more of,the correcting and rotation isn’t as important, BUT very good point about new cars and bodywork gets done with rotary.

so confusing
Click to expand...

If you are going Rupes grab a couple of blue wool & blue foam pads, 4 yellow wool and 4 yellow foam pads, and the blue & yellow polishes. That should tackle about 95% of what you will see.

I have used `systems` before, then switched to `mixed pads & polishes`. After talking with Jason Rose at the 2020 MTE, and trying the system there, I have been very pleased with the results. I did already have most of the stuff, but the new wool pads are great.

For most swirl removals I use just Rupes yellow wool pads - it can be worked over a large area, using a little faster technique, the pad does not heat up, and it finishes fine.
 
jem7sk said:
Hey Dan, I just wanted to post this video by Brian of Apex Detail (one of several he has done on the rotary) where he is using several of those spacers stacked together where he says they are machined perfectly and he gets no vibration. I`m just posting to give cudos to Autopia and Apex more than anything and your post reminded me of the video.

If this doesn`t automatically go to 4:38.. that is where he is using multiple spacers. He has fashioned a rubber tube around them to keep from scratching anything if he bumps it.

https://youtu.be/tfwUJdk2blM?t=278
Click to expand...


jem7sk -- Thanks for the reply and the link to Apex !

Yes, a longer spacer can be used with a very small diameter pad, but as you go bigger diameters, then it is harder to control as you bring up the speed.. I like that he made something to go over the spacer so if it accidentally bumps into something, it won`t damage it..

For those little places - especially under the door handle, (called the door cups), I have forever, just put a little Meguiars 105 compound on a clean, white, towel, and using 1 finger, get under the door handle and rub this across the area back and forth, and up and down.. This product works extremely fast and looks great afterwards..
It removes all marks, light scratches (from fingernails) under there easily.. If you repeat the process, it might even look better..

Again, just be really careful of the entire -Edge- around those areas.. There is very little paint on any -Edge-, remember that..

When I am using the big Makita with my usual 5" backing plate, 5-1/4" pads, etc., and I come to edges, I just lift up on the pressure and go quickly past any edges.. Have never damaged an edge either by being mindful of them - all of them -...

For the smallest of places where no pad is going to get in there, if I cannot get 1 finger with compound in there on a white towel, I carefully use the Pointed Q-tip and the same compound to -Carefully- work those little areas until the paintwork comes as close to -matching- the rest of the paintwork around them..

Or sometimes, use a Q-tip with a very soft microfiber on it to carefully work those tiny areas, etc.. Do not use something too hard that will hurt the paint there, and then you have a bigger problem to deal with..

Yes, some vehicles with a lot of letters, numbers, etc., on the back of the trunk lid, etc., take more time, but when it`s done, it all looks beautiful and most importantly - it all - matches-...

I will never need to go buy all that stuff this guy at Apex uses. It all looks great and I am glad the technology has advanced so nicely.. :) It was great to watch this guy do all this !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
jem7sk -- Thanks for the reply and the link to Apex !

Yes, a longer spacer can be used with a very small diameter pad, but as you go bigger diameters, then it is harder to control as you bring up the speed.. I like that he made something to go over the spacer so if it accidentally bumps into something, it won`t damage it..

For those little places - especially under the door handle, (called the door cups), I have forever, just put a little Meguiars 105 compound on a clean, white, towel, and using 1 finger, get under the door handle and rub this across the area back and forth, and up and down.. This product works extremely fast and looks great afterwards..
It removes all marks, light scratches (from fingernails) under there easily.. If you repeat the process, it might even look better..

Again, just be really careful of the entire -Edge- around those areas.. There is very little paint on any -Edge-, remember that..

When I am using the big Makita with my usual 5" backing plate, 5-1/4" pads, etc., and I come to edges, I just lift up on the pressure and go quickly past any edges.. Have never damaged an edge either by being mindful of them - all of them -...

For the smallest of places where no pad is going to get in there, if I cannot get 1 finger with compound in there on a white towel, I carefully use the Pointed Q-tip and the same compound to -Carefully- work those little areas until the paintwork comes as close to -matching- the rest of the paintwork around them..

Or sometimes, use a Q-tip with a very soft microfiber on it to carefully work those tiny areas, etc.. Do not use something too hard that will hurt the paint there, and then you have a bigger problem to deal with..

Yes, some vehicles with a lot of letters, numbers, etc., on the back of the trunk lid, etc., take more time, but when it`s done, it all looks beautiful and most importantly - it all - matches-...

I will never need to go buy all that stuff this guy at Apex uses. It all looks great and I am glad the technology has advanced so nicely.. :) It was great to watch this guy do all this !
Dan F
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips Dan.. I`ve just bought a 5" backing plate from Amazon and am looking forward to testing the rotary on the junk panels I have. I`ll definitely pick up one of those spacers and test it out along with some of the 105 if my Ultimate Compound is not enough to rub out, by hand or Q-Tip, the small areas you mentioned.
 
Stokdgs said:
I only use 5" backing plates and pads for 99% of all the paintwork, except for the small A, B,/C pillars between the side windows, etc... or perhaps that little painted strip across the top of some back glass like my `09 Grand Cherokee, etc.. On those narrow places I switch to a 3 or 4 inch backing plate and pad..
Click to expand...

Dan, I am curious why you use the 5" backing plates with your rotary? I have noticed through YT that you are not alone. I got mine in yesterday and put it on.. it was considerably smaller than the 7" that came with mine. I was just curious why a powerful rotary would do better with the 5" than the 7"? Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top