Poli seal not beading well
- Thread starter clnfrk
- Start date
Brian_Brice
New member
I'm not sure beading is what you should expect from ps, do you top it with anything? It's an aio, minor correction minor cleaning minor protection, I don't think it should bead like crazy by itself.
imported_DieselMDX
New member
zaio beads real nice
Ron Harris
New member
This will start another war but here goes.
I have noticed many many times that a car that beads water takes much longer to dry then a car that sheets the water off. I feel that sheeting is much better. jmo
I have noticed many many times that a car that beads water takes much longer to dry then a car that sheets the water off. I feel that sheeting is much better. jmo
SpoiledMan
New member
Dent's & Details said:
I agree and I agree.:chuckle:
Ron Harris
New member
SpoiledMan said:
Spoiledman,
California is is the worst place I believe to have constant beading. With all the pollution in the air people think it's just dust. I lived there and when you have the dew overnight and the morning sun heats it up all that pollution just starts getting baked into the paint in those beads. since moving out of the state claying is not that big an issue.
I used to be amazed at how fast a car would be covered in the little orange specks that resemble rust!
I had one customer with a white BMW. He lived close to the beach. We used to wash the car every week and wax it every 4 weeks. Every 6 months it was necessary to clay the thing. The lube would turn orange from all the gunk.
SpoiledMan
New member
Man, you aren't kidding. About a month ago I had a Cadi Deville that when I looked at for the quote I thought was pearl white. When I started cleaning the paint I still thought it was pearl white. When the stuff started coming off the paint I was amazed to see that it was just plain white. It probably had a lot to do with how it's cared for as well as the environment. It's right under the final approach path to LAX, it has likely NEVER been properly detailed and I think the owner just sprays water on it and dries it off. None of that is helping. Needless to say the water just sat on the surface which did help with the paint decontamination. It would have been a half day affair with just clay and two people. We got it pretty much perfectly clean using the Hi Tech sponge and aggressive clay. My arms were like Jello!
imported_Reflectionz
New member
Scottwax said:
how could we tell if its protection well?
Dent's & Details said:
I was under the impression that the beads are a good indicator of whether or not an lsp is still being effective. Any idea why some products would bead like crazy while others don't?
I can't help but think that I just stripped all the product off after just one wash of cars that I previously applied Poliseal to after seeing the sheeting effect. I also have yet to top Poliseal with anything.
imported_memnuts
New member
clnfrk said:
That's the million dollar question.
I know of no product that sheets initially and evolves to starts to bead as the product deteriorates. If such a product existed it would be the ideal topper.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
clnfrk said:
This is a favorite discussion topic here. Part of the problem is the "definition" of sheeting. I always envision "sheeting" as the water just lays on the surface in a sheet, but I came to realize when people were describing sealants that "sheeted" they meant that the "beads" accumulated and then ran off the car in a "sheet" (which to my mind is beading...)
Dent's & Details said:
Well, here we go. Some LSP's bead like crazy, small beads. The small beads aggregate together into larger beads which then run off the car, but under the right circumstances, say, when it stops raining, a lot of beads will stand there on the car, representing, as you note, a lot of water, which takes a long time to dry, and can cause spotting.
So are you saying that a "sheeting" LSP doesn't bead as well, meaning that the beads are larger and more irregular, and therefore more prone to being large enough to run off the car by themselves, or more easily touch other beads to aggregate into a droplet large enough to run off the car?
My premise here is that a very small bead doesn't have enough mass to overcome the molecular attraction and run off the car, and that there is a "critical mass" (sorry) where the bead is heavy enough to run off.
Ron Harris
New member
I see this on my wifes black Expedition.
Light rain it beads if the rain is heavy it sheets off the car. When I wash the car at home it takes less then a minute for the car to sheet and self dry with just a few wet spots here and there.
Light rain it beads if the rain is heavy it sheets off the car. When I wash the car at home it takes less then a minute for the car to sheet and self dry with just a few wet spots here and there.
maesal
New member
Dent's & Details said:
With wich LSP?
imported_fishbonezken
New member
for example,
M16 beads and M21 sheets
M16 beads and M21 sheets
25 years ago, anything good beaded well upon application. Most products of that time had poor durability compared to todays, so the beading slowly transgressed from many tiny beads to large beads to puddles. That was the time to reapply. People who only washed their cars were the one's who had water sheeting off their finish.
wannafbody
wannafbody
Dent's & Details said:
What I've observed from using many different products over the years is that most will bead very well initially and after a few washes start to sheet. Other products continue to bead for quite a bit longer (several months) and slowly begin to change to a sheeting action. I reason that the products that take the longest to change their beading charactaristics and washes clean the longest are the products that protect the best.
wannafbody said:
Durable does not always equal protection though. I've seen cars a year old that have never been waxed that still bead, yet are unprotected. I prefer to use slickness and appearance along with beading characteristics to tell me when it is time to reapply the wax or sealant.