Please someone inform this guy about the qualities of a PC

Mosca said:
Anthony, my point is that given enough time the PC can duplicate the results of a rotary, and that professionals don't have that kind of time but hobbyists do. All sorts of things that are impossible within restraints become possible when restraints (in this case, of time) are removed. It may not make sense for a professional to reach for the d/a when the rotary is right next to it, but if all a hobbyist has is a d/a and the will to work at it, and an unlimited number of weekends, then the d/a will produce flawless results, just like pebbles in a stream are impossibly smooth. If a d/a will remove a little bit of paint, then it will remove paint a little bit at a time for as long as the user is willing to work at it. A contractor will say that he can't build a 300 foot high pyramid without cranes and heavy equipment, but if you go to Egypt, there are pyramids.



The tool won't produce the result "a flawless finish in a reasonable amount of time", but it will produce the result "a flawless finish within some finite amount of time". Erosion is erosion, and only one's inability to wait for it to happen causes one to declare it an illusion.





Tom
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Most of the time, the PC can duplicate a PC 98%. However, I would not recommend trying to take wetsanding marks out with a PC.



I will say that a few times over the summer the PC really disappointed me and that is why I'm taking the plunge into rotary use--for cars I and customers do not have time to sit around and polish, and polish, and polish with the PC.



I would also say that with time, you can duplicate what the PC does by hand .
 
After reading this thread I find myself wondering.... Do you professionals, the ones who know how to use a rotary, ever use a PC instead of your rotary? It seems to me that if you have a rotary and know how to use use it, why would you ever just use a PC?
 
I know as many here do ,that the PC can do some work,

albeit not as quickly as a rotary. Before I got the MAK and

the rotary, I was still able to knock down all but the

deepest scratches and swirl marks with the PC. Once again

it boil down to product and pads used. But it became a

matter of time for me, so as I looked around for other

solutions, I gravitated more towards something more robust

like the MAK (and I will be replacing that baby with a Festool

very soon).



Ironically, I pretty much stopped using my PC due to the

bogging issue. The only thing I like about the machine is it

is more flexible in what is available for it. Now I primarily use

the MAK d/a, since it is very much harder to bog down, and it

can actually do more work over time than the PC can. It is not

as flexible in what can be used on it though; you can't change

the backing plate, and you can't use the Edge double-sided

pads.



What really irritated me about that guy's post

is that he is basing his opinions on what his friend has, or

what he has read. He never indicated that he ever used one.

Without the benefit of having used the machine, he has no

way of knowing for himself what the machine is capable of

doing. And therefore has no clout.
 
I would also say that with time, you can duplicate what the PC does by hand .



And that is EXACTLY my point. The rotary brings it into the time limit of a professional. The PC brings it within the time limit of a serious hobbyist. By hand makes it within some finite amount of time, but outside the limit of a hobbyist.



Tom
 
Corey Bit Spank said:
Most of the time, the PC can duplicate a PC 98%. However, I would not recommend trying to take wetsanding marks out with a PC.



I will say that a few times over the summer the PC really disappointed me and that is why I'm taking the plunge into rotary use--for cars I and customers do not have time to sit around and polish, and polish, and polish with the PC.



I would also say that with time, you can duplicate what the PC does by hand .
Click to expand...



If you are buffing out wetsanding on an entire car, then you may be right. For normal touchups, I disagree...



Using 3M compound and an LC Constant Pressure yellow pad, I took out some wetsanding marks in a one square foot area in nothing flat. Then I followed with IP on a white pad and FPII on a white pad. My touch up work wasn't the best (paint had faded), but the result was glass smooth. After buffing, my touchup was smoother than the original paint job.



Yes, a rotary will do it faster. And, for a pro who does it 5 times a week, then go for the rotary. But for an amateur who might do it a few times a year, the rotary's overkill. A PC will work nicely.



Regards,



Dan.
 
Mosca said:
I would also say that with time, you can duplicate what the PC does by hand .



And that is EXACTLY my point. The rotary brings it into the time limit of a professional. The PC brings it within the time limit of a serious hobbyist. By hand makes it within some finite amount of time, but outside the limit of a hobbyist.



Tom
Click to expand...



Well said! My thoughts exactly!
 
BookemDano said:
If you are buffing out wetsanding on an entire car, then you may be right. For normal touchups, I disagree...



Using 3M compound and an LC Constant Pressure yellow pad, I took out some wetsanding marks in a one square foot area in nothing flat. Then I followed with IP on a white pad and FPII on a white pad. My touch up work wasn't the best (paint had faded), but the result was glass smooth. After buffing, my touchup was smoother than the original paint job.



Yes, a rotary will do it faster. And, for a pro who does it 5 times a week, then go for the rotary. But for an amateur who might do it a few times a year, the rotary's overkill. A PC will work nicely.



Regards,



Dan.
Click to expand...



I've had different experiences but oh well. :)
 
usdm said:
and I will be replacing that baby with a Festool

very soon).
Click to expand...



with this? 3.5lbs



cat_ras115_04e_p3f_1.jpg
 
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