please, read this through and let me know what you think about it.

chip douglas

New member
I started out buffing my hood with Meg'S #83 + Meg's polishing pad, then after I'd buffed each area, I'd wipe it off with QD, or even wash it to make sure no oils or fillers were stil there to hide the true paint. Couple days later, still on the hood, I decided to use a leftover of 3M's 5937 machine glaze, with Meg's polishing pad. So I go about doing it, and then wash the hood to have a look at how it performed. Guess what ? There were tons of swirls, which at first appeared to be rotary buffer induced (I'm using a rotary), so I then though the pad or the 5937 did that, however, I opted to keep using the 5937 to seee what I'd do after couple shots. Guess what ? After 2 times buffing the same area, which was covered in swirls, the paint was flawless, and I made sure to wash it after those couple shots going over the same area to make sure the true paint was revealed.

Now where did those swirls come from in the first place ? From Meg's #83 maybe ? As I said, at first I thought the 5937 induced them, but after buffing the same area twice, they were truly gone. So I gather those scratches were ALREADY there, but hidden, as the 5937 cannot have created them and then take them all out--it'd be silly when you think about it, so those scratches had to be there in the first place, but not apparent.

My guess is 3M's 5937 cleaned the paint removing fillers that were there and hidding them swirls, then wiping it, thought it was the 5937 which put them in, but it was not.

Any more idea ? Let me know...this in the long run gets me dizzy lol
 
Since I have never used either product, I didn't feel qualified to respond, but since noo ne else has either.

Could it be that you didn't work the #83 long enough for the abrasives to break down completely?
I keep hearing about diminishing abrasives that have to be worked quite a while to get the intended results.

Charles
 
Hi Charles,

I buffed #83 till nothing was left, so I guess that was long enough :). I then followed with #82 which is swirl remover, but I couldn't bring the paint flawless as expected from it. Very very fine micro marring were still showing. 5937 from 3M's is the only one so far that can make my particular paint perfect. I always wash it thoroughly after to make sure the true paint is revealed, and always check for swirls in the bright sunlight.


Is it me or can compounds can be really tricky at times lol ?

What's more I've used the same pad (Meg's polishing pad) for both the #83, and 3M's 5937, so it's not the pad, but definately the compound that made a difference, and also, I buffed both compounds till they turned to dust.


But the point I don't quite understand is : why did the 5937 first appeared to induce swirls, and then took them all out ? They had to be there, but hidden.

Cheers
 
Maybe do a 50/50 wipe down as opposed to a wash.

I cannot give advice as I have not used a rotary, but have used these two products and both work well together.

What color is vehicle?
What was done to the vehicle prior to buffing?
What was the condition of vehicle's paint prior to buffing?
What prior work has been done to the paint?

Eric
 
I'm not too much of a why person. Not all that curious about things, I guess.
One thing that I do think would stick with you is "use 3M 5937, next time".
There must be something to the different paints reacting to different products in different ways.
How else would you explain the mixed results with the same products by two different users. Case in point. I have tried Meguiar's #7 at least 4 times, (actually purchased it 4 different times), and 3M IHG 3 times, and did not have good luck with either. Those 7 bottles of product were given away after each failure with less than 10% used. Other people have great results with both. :dunno
I kind of gave up trying to figure it all out and just go ahead and use what works for me.

Charles
 
What color is vehicle? Red (urethane repaint btw)

What was done to the vehicle prior to buffing? Claying, regular washing using lambswool mitts.

What was the condition of vehicle's paint prior to buffing? good

What prior work has been done to the paint? the car is a repaint, thus the paint should be softer, than OEM paint.
 
Charles,

keep in mind some people, do not wipe the surface off after they buffed, and may think the paint is flawless, but in fact, fillers cover things up--this last point can make quite a difference, in different users using the same products. Of course there are more variables that play into it as well, but the above is one that mislead some.
 
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