Please help old school'er select pads, products, etc

I

imported_Skybax

New member
Hopefully you guys can give me some direction. Even though I have been heavily into cars for 25 years as a profession & hobby and do all my own detail work, I have done very little buffing & paint correction over the last quarter century.



Here is what I'm dealing with...



- 99 Buick Regal

- Dark Midnight Blue Metallic

- Paint isn't to bad, I believe it was garage kept, little to no water marks, smooth to the touch, hand wash scratches, car wash scratches, bumps and bruises. Basically 9 years of regular use, was used but not abused, never been detailed. I believe it has the potential look absolutely beautiful when finished. I'll post pictures later.



Here is what I purchased so far...



- HF Rotary: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (yes it's a cheap one, but I'm only doing 3 cars a year)

- PC 7427: Porter-Cable 7424 6" Random-Orbit Polisher Buffer New! - eBay (item 150222142100 end time Mar-06-08 12:47:21 PST)



Here is what I want to do...



- Buff it with ROTARY using M105

- Polish it with PC using XXXXX

- Hand wax it, probablly with NXT



Here is what I need help with...



1) What backing plate do I need to buy for the rotary?

2) What pad do I need for the new rotary backing plate?

3) Do I need a new backing plate for the PC?

4) What pad do I need for the PC?

5) What middle step product do you recommend after the H105 and before wax?



Please try to use as little abbreviations as possible, like I said I'm old school and loosing touch. Also please try to keep in mind I need to keep the cost as low as possible. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to. I detail very few cars, so large quantities of pads, products, kits, etc doesn't fit my needs.



Thanks a bunch for any help and I look forward to posting the before and after pictures.
 
5 3/4" backing plate, an assortment of 6 1/2 LC pads, SIP, 106FF, LSP of your choice...

Man, this is covered almost daily. If you look down the page or do a quick search and you'll find lots of answers.
 
As jshillin said, you'll want a 5 3/4" backing plate for both. I'd get some 6.5" orange pads to use with the rotary and M105. You can use the same backing plate on the PC, and I'd get some 6.5" white pads to use with PO106ff (Menzerna's Nano Polish) to follow up the M105. Then if you want you could get some grey or blue pads to use with the PC to apply the NXT or whatever wax you choose, but I know many people choose to wax by hand.
 
I would highly reccomend either replacing M105 with SIP or considering two polish steps after it. It leaves the cleanest finish of any 1200 grit compound, but it still is going to need more than one step via PC to fix.



I'd say for the PC, try 1Z proline IP via orange pad and then 1Z Proline FP via white pad.
 
themightytimmah said:
I would highly reccomend either replacing M105 with SIP or considering two polish steps after it. It leaves the cleanest finish of any 1200 grit compound, but it still is going to need more than one step via PC to fix.



I'd say for the PC, try 1Z proline IP via orange pad and then 1Z Proline FP via white pad.
Click to expand...



He said he has a rotary too so he should be fine, but I'd still go with SIP.
 
I'm in a very similar situation. I'd really like to know how that buffer works out. Please post an update after you use it.
 
I would consider the following...



Get your rotary (you need a 5 3/4 packing plate or so, the best I have used is Meguiars W-66)



For the pads (and my plan of attack) I would recommend getting 2 of Lake Countrys Purple foam wool pads, 2 of Lake Countrys White foam pads, and 2 of Lake Countrys Gray Finishing pads. I prefer the 7 1/2 inch Beveled Edge CCS pads.



For a polish, I woud suggest staying away from M105 because of the unique way the product is used. Also, SIP can give fits on softer paints (such as what you are likely dealing with). Since you have been away from the game for a long time and are frankly inexperienced (with both a rotary and a PC) I would go with Optimum Polish. The reason is that is very easy to use and is pad variable (varies its cut greatly depending on the cut of the pad). It stays wet a long time, and if used properly gives results as good as any polish used.



I am going to assume you know how to use a rotary, so start with the OP and a white pad. OP has a long work time of atleast 60 seconds, so take your time and keep the pad moving. I would recommend around 1200-1500 RPM. Inspect. If you need more cut, step up to the purple wool and stay with the OP. Increase your RPM to 1500+. Purple wool is easy to use, and because wool runs cooler (as does op) it allows you as a novice to get a nice cut will reducing the risk of burning the paint. As this combination is not near as aggressive as M105 and a twisted wool pad, it make take several more passes to get the finish to you desired rate.



This is fine though, as the torquise make take longer than the hare, but at least he will still have paint level on his shell. Proceed to make a couple passes with the purple wool until satisfied with the level of finish. Then repolish with OP and a white pad to remove the wool marring. If you do this step properly, you might be gloss to perfection. If you still have light hologramming (if you have swirls at this point you must judge if it was from your techinque or that fact you still haven't removed them from the purple wool step), then you can finish with a Gray finishing pad and low rpm (burish the paint a 1000 RPM for several minutes, very smoothly) or switch to the portercable.



Speaking of the PC, get 4 inch packing plate and 5 inch pad (LC White). You can use this combination after the rotary step with the LC White pad if you have hologramming or need further refinement.



I think this process would serve you best and take advantage of OP's ease of use and amazing flexablity.



I really think if you where to jump into M105 and twisted wool off the bat, you are going to regret it.
 
TH0001 said:
I would consider the following...



Get your rotary (you need a 5 3/4 packing plate or so, the best I have used is Meguiars W-66)



For the pads (and my plan of attack) I would recommend getting 2 of Lake Countrys Purple foam wool pads, 2 of Lake Countrys White foam pads, and 2 of Lake Countrys Gray Finishing pads. I prefer the 7 1/2 inch Beveled Edge CCS pads.



For a polish, I woud suggest staying away from M105 because of the unique way the product is used. Also, SIP can give fits on softer paints (such as what you are likely dealing with). Since you have been away from the game for a long time and are frankly inexperienced (with both a rotary and a PC) I would go with Optimum Polish. The reason is that is very easy to use and is pad variable (varies its cut greatly depending on the cut of the pad). It stays wet a long time, and if used properly gives results as good as any polish used.



I am going to assume you know how to use a rotary, so start with the OP and a white pad. OP has a long work time of atleast 60 seconds, so take your time and keep the pad moving. I would recommend around 1200-1500 RPM. Inspect. If you need more cut, step up to the purple wool and stay with the OP. Increase your RPM to 1500+. Purple wool is easy to use, and because wool runs cooler (as does op) it allows you as a novice to get a nice cut will reducing the risk of burning the paint. As this combination is not near as aggressive as M105 and a twisted wool pad, it make take several more passes to get the finish to you desired rate.



This is fine though, as the torquise make take longer than the hare, but at least he will still have paint level on his shell. Proceed to make a couple passes with the purple wool until satisfied with the level of finish. Then repolish with OP and a white pad to remove the wool marring. If you do this step properly, you might be gloss to perfection. If you still have light hologramming (if you have swirls at this point you must judge if it was from your techinque or that fact you still haven't removed them from the purple wool step), then you can finish with a Gray finishing pad and low rpm (burish the paint a 1000 RPM for several minutes, very smoothly) or switch to the portercable.



Speaking of the PC, get 4 inch packing plate and 5 inch pad (LC White). You can use this combination after the rotary step with the LC White pad if you have hologramming or need further refinement.



I think this process would serve you best and take advantage of OP's ease of use and amazing flexablity.



I really think if you where to jump into M105 and twisted wool off the bat, you are going to regret it.
Click to expand...





Agreed! great advice! When i used my OP i didnt work it down long enouph and due to that i havent ttried it since. I am going to go back and tried it soon. Maybe even today on my moms PT cruiser or my grandmas audi.



Anyways, follows todds advice and you will be FINE :up



,Daniel
 
Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. I have a few more questions...



1) With the rotary 5.75" Backing Plate, I want a 7.5" Pad correct?



2) Where is the best place to buy the Backing Plate and Optimum Polish?



Thanks!
 
Skybax in my my opinion, I think you would be better served with the 6.5" pads. I think you have better control over them and since you are only working on your car, the few minutes extra it take to complete a car using smaller pads is no big deal. I started on a rotary (also a HF if that is any consolation) with 7.5 and 8 inch pads and now all I ever use are the 6.5's.



Using the 6.5's also has an added benefit for me since I have a Flex and the pads are interchangeable between the rotary and Flex.



There are quite a few good places to get backing plates and Optimum polish. Danase and Excel are two, but there are many.
 
Well the results are in.



The car had LOTS of scratches, mostly from years of going to one of those gas station car washes with the blue plastic brushes, where the car remains still and the brushes go around the car, those are the worst car washes anyone could use. They are much worse than the drive through ones.



Unfortunately I wasn't able to use the recommended products due to time constraints. Overall I'm satisfied with the results. It is a major improvement.



I used what was available to me at my local supply stores...



- Megs light cut cleaner compound with 3M white waffle foam cutting pad

- Megs swirl remover & polish with 3M black waffle foam polishing pad

- NXT



Here are some pictures. (sorry no before pictures but it was pretty bad)



Regal Photo Gallery by BTD at pbase.com



I'm sure some of you guys with your products and equipment would have produced much better results. But like I said, it's a major improvement and looks presentable now.



Thanks for all the advice. Next up is a 1996 Tercel that is REALLY rough. Yay!
 
Skybax said:
Well the results are in.



The car had LOTS of scratches, mostly from years of going to one of those gas station car washes with the blue plastic brushes, where the car remains still and the brushes go around the car, those are the worst car washes anyone could use. They are much worse than the drive through ones.



I used what was available to me at my local supply stores...



- Megs light cut cleaner compound with 3M white waffle foam cutting pad

- Megs swirl remover & polish with 3M black waffle foam polishing pad

- NXT



I'm sure some of you guys with your products and equipment would have produced much better results. But like I said, it's a major improvement and looks presentable now.
Click to expand...



Hey, the car came out looking great.....:bigups



Good job skybax......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top