Please Help - IronX stains on white car

G

Green Hornet

New member
Hello,



I was polishing and noticed some spots I thought I'd try to get rid of with IronX. I sprayed it on and it immediately discolored the spot I sprayed. I've used it before on the same car no problems.



There is a patch of discoloration about 10"x6" and some random spots that look like they they stained as soon as the stuff landed.



Is there anything I can do to fix this?



Thanks
 
Were you working in the sun or on a hot surface?



OEM or repaint?



Color of paint - and color of stain?



need more info ;). Chances are if the stain is actually an etch, polishing or a paint cleaner at the minimum may be in order.
 
If the car is single stage paint and there is some oxidation on it most of the chemicals you spray will change the way oxidized paints look. Once you compound and get rid of the oxidation there won't be any stains on the paint.
 
sfds said:
If the car is single stage paint and there is some oxidation on it most of the chemicals you spray will change the way oxidized paints look. Once you compound and get rid of the oxidation there won't be any stains on the paint.
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This is a pretty good point. I definitely don't know all, but most Toyota/Lexus white is single-stage. The possibility of staining is quite plausible in this situation.
 
White car, late 90's, but the spot had been touched up in the past. Stain is like that of the IronX after working, but much lighter. I maybe saved myself some by hitting it with the hose when I saw what was happening.



Surface may still have been warm / hot as I had just finished doing some polishing.



I've tried using everything from simple green to the paint cleaner to ISA. After all that I tried to cut it off with a Yellow pad and some 105 on a Flex 3401.



What's my next step, more cutting? More aggressive pad?



Thank you
 
Pretty scary thought that Iron-X could stain paint. Am interested to know more and what the final results are.
 
When you say the area is touched up, do you mean repainted? Iron X directions are to use it on the cool surface, don't allow it to dry and don't use on SMART paint repaired surfaces. If it is not OEM paint it might have a bad reaction to iron X and stains might be in the paint. Even though Iron X is ph balanced, I would wash the area in the shade with baking soda and use a stronger compound to cut the paint. Make sure keep the surface temp. to low while buffing and see if that will get rid of the stains.
 
I reevaluated the staining, and yes the OEM was not harmed at all. The touch up paint and clear (spray bombs) are what is stained. The touch up clear coat I believe to have been inferior quality and was already slightly yellowed.



Looks like some are questioning the IronX. I don't want to mislead people there. I've used it on the car before when it was really badly contaminated - even on this very spot. It's amazing stuff! I think I made possibly a few stupid mistakes, using it when the metal was still warm / hot right after polishing etc. At least none of the OEM was affected and just a poorly done patch. Just hoping it doesn't come right down to wetsanding. :mad2:



Thanks for the tips!
 
People shouldn't question IronX



I am working on a 2 winter season driven supercharged Elise that is driven verrrryy "well" and washed a few times a year at best -



It has been washed twice, taken through IronX as an ID step, then both the FK and Valugard decon systems, then re-ironX'd.



It still bled purple...
 
Hi

touch up spots need to be very well prepared before applying on them, and baked hard into the surface. otherwise you still will have contamination's under which continue to oxidize, thats why ironx penetrated there ,under the surface!!..

you need to polish these spots and touch up again..
 
autoaesthetica said:
People shouldn't question IronX



I am working on a 2 winter season driven supercharged Elise that is driven verrrryy "well" and washed a few times a year at best -



It has been washed twice, taken through IronX as an ID step, then both the FK and Valugard decon systems, then re-ironX'd.



It still bled purple...
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:soscared:
 
Wow, severe case there! :( :eek: I wonder if the chemicals in Iron X might always bleed to some degree no matter what. We need a test bed of brand new,fresh paint to confirm for sure. :nixweiss
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
:soscared:
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I want to call Accumulator over for coffee and we can clay while "Step B'ing"



Never had something so stubborn.. then again this car is driven in everything and admittedly not washed :). But its better than not being driven. lol
 
autoaesthetica said:
People shouldn't question IronX



I am working on a 2 winter season driven supercharged Elise that is driven verrrryy "well" and washed a few times a year at best -



It has been washed twice, taken through IronX as an ID step, then both the FK and Valugard decon systems, then re-ironX'd.



It still bled purple...
Click to expand...



The owner work in the Amtrak rail yard? Lol
 
Lotuseffect said:
The owner work in the Amtrak rail yard? Lol
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No George, this car has been through winters, summers of minimal washing, I am not sure if it ever has had a proper detail. The heavy stuff is along the rear end(where the air sig swirls everything around) and along the sides where the tires kick up that slushy, plow filing and metal shred filled brine onto the car in winter.



Its nuts.. the even stranger thing is after the chemical decons and de-tar, brought in to clay(planning to wash again after) the paint was majorly rough. Clayed with Meg's Mild and Aggressive, and NOTHING visible comes up.. but the paint is butter smooth so obviously its much better... just strange situation.
 
Don't take this as the gospel, but I have to think that something in the Iron-X affected the pigment of the base or clear, mainly it would have to be the base coat if a two stage, if a one stage, it is much easier for such to take place.

If the "A" of the ABC System did not remove or change the color, then it is affected. The "A" will expand slightly the paint system so that dirt, soil, emission deposits are "washed" out of the substrate. This is why the instructions for the ABC System specify the

entire system be used, according to provided directions. Not doing as the instructions direct, all products is not recommended.

Often, when some of these sort of products are used, produced and marketed without paint supplier or vehicle manufacturer lab testing, such as has been experinced may happen.

Wish I could be of more assistance, however really think that the product altered the pigment of the paint.

Grumpy
 
Bill D said:
I would contact Avi at Car Pro. I know he's active on Autopia Forums
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And he's even posted in this thread once already! :nana:



AviCP said:
Hi

touch up spots need to be very well prepared before applying on them, and baked hard into the surface. otherwise you still will have contamination's under which continue to oxidize, thats why ironx penetrated there ,under the surface!!..

you need to polish these spots and touch up again..
Click to expand...
 
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