Picky Clear Problem!

Shawn F.

New member
I am doing a full paint correction on an exterior of a 71 Nova that was repainted a few years back and has a ton of wet sand scratches from where the body shop tried to sand out bits of trash in the clear. The entire roof is covered in sand scratches and the rest of the car pretty much does as well. I started with my DeWalt rotary on a white pad and Optimum Hyper Spray Polish. It did not touch the scratches or imperfections in the paint. I then went to Optimum Hyper Compound spray and white pad and it started to correct but took much too long. I then went to the foam/wool blend pad and Optimum Hyper Compound. This seemed to do the job but took double the time it usually does to remove scratches as if the clear was rock hard.



I did my typical compound follow up with Hyper polish on the white pad then followed it with a black pad and Hyper polish again. After this I went ahead and did Optimum Finish polish on another black ccs pad and then IPA wipedown. Inside under fluorescents, halogens, brinkmann spot lights, etc it looked very good with only a couple spots that still had cobweb swirls. I was going to pull the car outside and do a full wash on it to remove any dust, oils, etc before doing the Chemical Guys Creme Glaze w/ Acrylic Shine followed by paint sealant and then wax. When I did I noticed very slight halos or buffer trails all over the entire car except the hood and trunk lid. You could only see them when the sun was almost directly above but as the sun went down you could not see them.



I pulled the car back in, changed all my pads and started with black pad and Optimum polish. Pulled back out and same thing. I tried longer working time, still same problem. Shorter working time and still... I tried 3M swirl remover, Turbo Wax Swirl Remover, etc on black pad and still. I went ahead and moved up thinking the clear was so hard to buff before that maybe it needs a more aggressive approach. I did the white pad and Optimum spray polish and it seemed to make it worse.

Last thing I tried was black pad again and Optimum Finish Polish and they seemed to lighten up some but still there ever so slightly even with longer working time and shorter work time thinking maybe I am working the stuff too long.



Anyways sorry to drag on here, I just wanted to give as much detail and info as possible to hopefully get some help here on removing these buffer trails! It seems that the clear is rock hard but when finishing it is super soft. Any suggestions? Keep in mind, I am by no means a beginner with a rotary or paint correction. I have been using a rotary for 6.5-7 years and have probably ran into this kind of problem 4 times and one other time recently but not nearly this bad at all! I usually can figure out some kind of method to fix finicky clear but this time I am totally stumped... Any help/info is GREATLY appreciated since I need to have this car done tomorrow afternoon and have worked on it for 3 days now.
 
Shawn F. said:
I am doing a full paint correction on an exterior of a 71 Nova that was repainted a few years back and has a ton of wet sand scratches from where the body shop tried to sand out bits of trash in the clear. The entire roof is covered in sand scratches and the rest of the car pretty much does as well. I started with my DeWalt rotary on a white pad and Optimum Hyper Spray Polish. It did not touch the scratches or imperfections in the paint. I then went to Optimum Hyper Compound spray and white pad and it started to correct but took much too long. I then went to the foam/wool blend pad and Optimum Hyper Compound. This seemed to do the job but took double the time it usually does to remove scratches as if the clear was rock hard.



I did my typical compound follow up with Hyper polish on the white pad then followed it with a black pad and Hyper polish again. After this I went ahead and did Optimum Finish polish on another black ccs pad and then IPA wipedown. Inside under fluorescents, halogens, brinkmann spot lights, etc it looked very good with only a couple spots that still had cobweb swirls. I was going to pull the car outside and do a full wash on it to remove any dust, oils, etc before doing the Chemical Guys Creme Glaze w/ Acrylic Shine followed by paint sealant and then wax. When I did I noticed very slight halos or buffer trails all over the entire car except the hood and trunk lid. You could only see them when the sun was almost directly above but as the sun went down you could not see them.



I pulled the car back in, changed all my pads and started with black pad and Optimum polish. Pulled back out and same thing. I tried longer working time, still same problem. Shorter working time and still... I tried 3M swirl remover, Turbo Wax Swirl Remover, etc on black pad and still. I went ahead and moved up thinking the clear was so hard to buff before that maybe it needs a more aggressive approach. I did the white pad and Optimum spray polish and it seemed to make it worse.

Last thing I tried was black pad again and Optimum Finish Polish and they seemed to lighten up some but still there ever so slightly even with longer working time and shorter work time thinking maybe I am working the stuff too long.



Anyways sorry to drag on here, I just wanted to give as much detail and info as possible to hopefully get some help here on removing these buffer trails! It seems that the clear is rock hard but when finishing it is super soft. Any suggestions? Keep in mind, I am by no means a beginner with a rotary or paint correction. I have been using a rotary for 6.5-7 years and have probably ran into this kind of problem 4 times and one other time recently but not nearly this bad at all! I usually can figure out some kind of method to fix finicky clear but this time I am totally stumped... Any help/info is GREATLY appreciated since I need to have this car done tomorrow afternoon and have worked on it for 3 days now.



106fa via the DA with a Tangerine LC Hydro pad.
 
Unfortunately I do not have tangerine LC pad, I do have the hydro red fine finishing though that I usually use for glaze. I'll give this one a shot. Just seems odd that the clear is so hard but delicate on finishing... Thanks for the info and help!
 
Shawn F. said:
Unfortunately I do not have tangerine LC pad, I do have the hydro red fine finishing though that I usually use for glaze. I'll give this one a shot. Just seems odd that the clear is so hard but delicate on finishing... Thanks for the info and help!



The crimson should work too as long as the holograms aren't too deep. You could try a white LC too.



Some paints simply can't be finished hologram free with a rotary.
 
Thanks again. I will be giving it a shot here within the hour... They are barely noticable at all. I messed with it some to see if I was putting then into the clear or just not touching them by changing to an off diagnal direction on my finish passes and the marks did change and were now in an off diagnal pattern which leads me to believe the clear is softer or delicate... Ive always been able to finish with a rotary and never use the da type polisher but looks like I may need to. I like how a rotary finishes better than I've seen da's finish but oh well I guess. Looks like I may need to add these tangerine pads to my list because I never use them. I use ccs style pads and basic black and white LC pads from detail image along with foam/wool blend and Optimum Microfiber.

I have not messed with any hydro pads other than the red or crimson one. Aren't they used for harder clears?
 
WHite LC pads are a finishing pad, they arent going to do too much correction, especially if you are trying to get out wetsanding scratches. LC Orange or Megs Burgundy pad will. Also, I second Rasky on finishing with a DA. Makes the job much much easier. Even an OJ pad on a DA with Hyper compound will do much more correction than Hyper compound on a LC White on a rotary.



Keep your finishing arm movements nice and steady not picking up any speed on the last few section passes. I find most peoples problems with finishing is they feel they need to pick up the speed or lighten the pressure on the last few section passes. Sometimes this can allow a small clump of polish embedded in the pad to come free and create light micromarring.
 
Thanks for the info again guys. I figured it out I believe. I'm using a red ccs pad which is used for applying glaze and wax with 3m Ultrafine and very little pressure with the rotary with just a couple quick passes. This is getting them out it seems. I guess the clear is just that delicate because I put my finger on it and drug it across and it caused scratches, but to get the sand scratches out was a complete different story and same with cobweb swirls.

As I said before, this isn't my first rodeo and I've been detailing and using a rotary for about 7 years at least. I have come across all sorts of odd paint and problems and this one just totally stumped me. Also since it was a repaint, who knows what clear coat they used and which line of clear coat.

Again, thanks for the info! I'll snap some pics of the afters and report back on my results!
 
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