PF2500 for 1980s Mercedes Single Stage??

J

Justins00ss

Active member
PF2500 for 1980s Mercedes Single Stage?? Before pics added

SOME BEFORE SHOTS HAVE BEEN ADDED A FEW POSTS DOWN.



Hey I was just contacted about doing a mid 80s Mercedes 500 with only 22k miles on the odometer! After speaking with the gentleman for a bit, who I might add is a repeat customer and has been very honest about his vehicle condition in the past, he told me that the single stage red is in decent shape but is looking a little chaulky in some spots.

Now here is my question. I have not seen this car yet and I am trying to get a plan together for this car to make sure I have what I need to tackle the single stage.

Here is what I have for my go to compounds and polishes.

Menzerna FG 400, PF 2500, M 205, M 105. After see what Mike Phillips did on that red single stage hot rod at his detailing class I am contemplating picking up some Pinnacle Advanced swirl remover and Advanced Finishing Polish or Menzerna IP 2000. I hate to go purchase them if I dont need them for this job but I am not sure if what I have will do the trick.

For machines I have a Shurhold DA polisher with 5.5 CCS smart pads and a Makita 9227c rotary. Any input is welcome. Thank you!
 
The chalky is most likely oxidized paint. Single stage oxidized a lot easier than our modern paints do. The advice of starting with the most mild and working down from there would be good to go with. Depending on the condition, I would start with Menzerna SF4500 or SF4000 on a black pad, and go down from there. Really going to be tough to say without seeing it.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the IP2000 if you've already got PF2500. If you need more cut than the 2500, the 2000 isn't going to be enough to make much of a difference. If you really think you'd need something between the 400 and 2500, the 1000 or 1500 would probably be a better bet.
 
PapaChop said:
The chalky is most likely oxidized paint. Single stage oxidized a lot easier than our modern paints do. The advice of starting with the most mild and working down from there would be good to go with. Depending on the condition, I would start with Menzerna SF4500 or SF4000 on a black pad, and go down from there. Really going to be tough to say without seeing it.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the IP2000 if you've already got PF2500. If you need more cut than the 2500, the 2000 isn't going to be enough to make much of a difference. If you really think you'd need something between the 400 and 2500, the 1000 or 1500 would probably be a better bet.
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Treat the paint like any other... Do a test spot and work up from there.

However, in my experience, there is a huge difference between IP2000 and PF2500 on older, weathered paints. IP uses a "grainier" abrasive that seems to cut through oxidation much faster. It is also a drier polish that dusts more, which helps prevent the pads from clogging as they cut through the oxidation. Again, just my experience. I keep a bottle of IP around, just for single stage paints.
 
Todd Helme said:
Treat the paint like any other... Do a test spot and work up from there.

However, in my experience, there is a huge difference between IP2000 and PF2500 on older, weathered paints. IP uses a "grainier" abrasive that seems to cut through oxidation much faster. It is also a drier polish that dusts more, which helps prevent the pads from clogging as they cut through the oxidation. Again, just my experience. I keep a bottle of IP around, just for single stage paints.
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Thanks Todd. That's exactly why I was considering the IP2000.
 
Todd Helme said:
However, in my experience, there is a huge difference between IP2000 and PF2500 on older, weathered paints. IP uses a "grainier" abrasive that seems to cut through oxidation much faster. It is also a drier polish that dusts more, which helps prevent the pads from clogging as they cut through the oxidation. Again, just my experience. I keep a bottle of IP around, just for single stage paints.
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Learn something every day! :rockon
 
Justins00ss said:
Thanks Todd. That's exactly why I was considering the IP2000.
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This isn't to say PF2500 is a bad choice at all... its just like many of Menz's newer offerings, it is a very wet polish that can hold contamination in the pad. Since oxidation tends to come off quickly, this can lead to very rapid pad changes. FWIW, you will need a finishing polish after IP for best results.
 
Todd Helme said:
This isn't to say PF2500 is a bad choice at all... its just like many of Menz's newer offerings, it is a very wet polish that can hold contamination in the pad. Since oxidation tends to come off quickly, this can lead to very rapid pad changes. FWIW, you will need a finishing polish after IP for best results.
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That was going to be my next question! I figured I would need a finishing polish after. Looks like I will get some IP2000.
 
I was able to go look at the car today. Besides the top sides being a little oxidized this car is in really nice shape. He did have the hood resprayed single stage about a month ago. Other than that it's all original paint.





 
Justins00ss said:
I was able to go look at the car today. Besides the top sides being a little oxidized this car is in really nice shape. He did have the hood resprayed single stage about a month ago. Other than that it's all original paint.





Click to expand...

Take pictures and post a write up!
 
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