Hi everyone. I have done alot of reading on this forum and I must say it is very informative.I broke out the PC with SSR2.5 and Green Propel pad and started to work on my wife's 05 white Grand Caravan.We just purchased the pre-certified van and it has 20k on it with a lot fine scratches.I washed and clayed before I started.The PC worked great but it is very very slow.Sor instance I would polish half of the door until dusting then wipe off and inspect.It would take 3-4 processes to completly remove all the scratches.Is this normal?I have about 10hrs involved just polishing with SSR2.5 to remove all the fine scratches.Do I need to apply AIO before applying UPP.I have SSR1 but their are no swirlmarks.I tried using SSR2.5 with a yellow Meguiars foam hand applicator for areas I could'nt reach with PC but it scratches the heck out of the clear.Seems strange but it did.How do you hand polish these area's and with what.Thanks for your time.
PC polishing technique
- Thread starter Maddmax
- Start date
Maddmax said:
It's quite normal for a PC to go a few passes to remove the swirls. But the trade off is that you don't burn your paint. I think you can apply your LSP after you finish this process.
Sometimes when you rub with applicator too hard, it can cause scratches ( I suppose). I normally polish with my hand as well. Or you can try 4" foam pad instead if you can.
Good luck
Accumulator
Well-known member
MaddMax- Welcome to Autopia.
Yeah, it's normal for it to take that long by PC. Heh heh, keep that in mind when you wash/dry; it's a *lot* easier to *not* mar the paint in the first place
You don't want to be scratching the clear when you polish. FWIW, I do the tight spots with regular MFs. I don't use the SSR stuff so I dunno what to use by hand, but I'd guess SSR2. Could be that the SSR 2.5 doesn't break down properly the way you're using it by hand.
No, you don't *need* to apply AIO before UPP. I apply UPP right after my last polishing step.
Yeah, it's normal for it to take that long by PC. Heh heh, keep that in mind when you wash/dry; it's a *lot* easier to *not* mar the paint in the first place
You don't want to be scratching the clear when you polish. FWIW, I do the tight spots with regular MFs. I don't use the SSR stuff so I dunno what to use by hand, but I'd guess SSR2. Could be that the SSR 2.5 doesn't break down properly the way you're using it by hand.
No, you don't *need* to apply AIO before UPP. I apply UPP right after my last polishing step.
I finally finished all the van but the front bumper.I applied UPP and just as I have read on the forum it is a very easy on-off product.I came in from my shop at little after midnight.I used some 4" Sonus SFX white pads that worked pretty good but I think I should of stepped up to the yellow for more cut.I also bought some 3" 3M waffle pads that worked very slick.I don't know why more people on the forum don't talk about these pads much.Very handy for really tight places.