PC operation... It spins... or it doesn't?

A

AlexRuiz

New member
When using the PC, I usually never pay attention to the pad movement. This time, however, the pad used was one of those "The edge" that has words on the velcro. The words work perfectly as frame of reference.

When the PC starts with no load, you can see using the words as refernce that the pad spins. However, after some load is being applied you see the motion chaning to "jiggle". I thought this was interesting.





Alex
 
Jiggy with it?



The random orbital buffer gets is name from the action of the buffer (or polishing head) This operates by the shaft rotating and spinning the back plate on an orbit radius or an eccentric offset (or throw) of 5/32-inch as opposed to a revolution on a direct-drive system



The random orbital buffer operates with a variable speed, user adjustable, from 2,500 â€â€œ 6,000 orbits per minute. The application of detailing products with a random orbital has the advantage of ensuring an even pressure and constant contact speed, mimicking free hand motion but at a far greater speed. By allowing the weight and the random motion of the machine do the work, thus ensuring that the product is applied in a thin even layer, and will allow products to get embedded deeper into the paint film surface's porosity.

JonM
 
I used a grease pencil to place a spot on my BP so that I can monitor when it is spinning and when it begins to bog down or "jiggle." I feel that is does the most work when it is spinning, not jiggling. If you use firm pressure with your hand on TOP of the machine NOT the handle, the machine will continue to spin under load. If the pressure becomes "off balance" if you will, then the machine bogs down and begins to jiggle.



FWIW, the cyclo can sustain some pretty firm pressure without bogging and IMO is subsequently better suited for defect removal.



Of course proper use of a rotary can make both of them look like toys. :D
 
Yeah, what they said :xyxthumbs



To keep the PC from just "jiggling" when you're doing heavy correction, try using a 4" pad. It works *much* more effectively with those when you put a little pressure on it.
 
Thanks guys... I'll ease up on the pressure. I thought that I had already trashed the PC because I didn't use the spacer..... :p
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, what they said :xyxthumbs



To keep the PC from just "jiggling" when you're doing heavy correction, try using a 4" pad. It works *much* more effectively with those when you put a little pressure on it.
Click to expand...



I've always thought you liked the 4" pads because of their size and convenience for tight spaces. Are you saying that the 4" pad is actually more effective for spot cutting and/or defect removal?
 
JDookie said:
I've always thought you liked the 4" pads because of their size and convenience for tight spaces. Are you saying that the 4" pad is actually more effective for spot cutting and/or defect removal?
Click to expand...



Yeah, that's right. I started using them for the small size for spot-repairs (as I do with the rotary) and for areas where I couldn't easily use the Cyclo. But I discovered that the smaller pads behaved quite differently from the usual 6" and larger ones. I can actually do some decent correction by using 4" (Cyclo brand) pads on the PC, a lot more than I could do with the larger pads. Far less bogging/"jiggling", more "true dual-action" motion.
 
JDookie said:
I've always thought you liked the 4" pads because of their size and convenience for tight spaces. Are you saying that the 4" pad is actually more effective for spot cutting and/or defect removal?
Click to expand...



Jason, I've been using the 4" pads with a PC for sometime and I have no doubts that 4" pads allow the PC to correct paint imperfections which would be difficult to complete or take a longer time with 6"+ pads.



The increase in torque/pad surface ratio, allows the 4" pad to be used much more agressively than a 6" pad and keeps the pad spinning under moderate weight.
 
Well that's very good to know. I have a bunch of 4" pads for my Cyclo that I can use, so I guess all I need now is a backing plate and I'm in business. You see that, learn something new every day around here. Thanks guys!
 
JDookie- I can't remember which polishes you favor, but I got our MPV looking great using the green Cyclo pads and PI-III RC/MG. Seemed like a good combo with the PC, worked *almost* as well as the areas I did with the Cyclo, equally effective (at least on *that* clear) but not as efficient (it did take a little longer/more passes).
 
Steve530 said:
OK, maybe you experts can make it clear for a novice like me.



Is the pad supposed to spin?
Click to expand...



It really doesn't *spin* but does more of a slow turn. It should kind of vibrate and wiggle back and forth in random motions.





Accumulator said:
JDookie- I can't remember which polishes you favor, but I got our MPV looking great using the green Cyclo pads and PI-III RC/MG. Seemed like a good combo with the PC, worked *almost* as well as the areas I did with the Cyclo, equally effective (at least on *that* clear) but not as efficient (it did take a little longer/more passes).
Click to expand...



I really don't have *a* favorite polish, but I tend to use 3M, 1Z, and Meg's polishes the most. I just recently purchased the Meg's line (80,81,82,83) to play with so I could have first hand experience when they are talked about in the forums, but I still love my 1Z and 3M, great stuff.



I'm really glad you are saying this about the 4" pads because I sometimes have scratches that just don't want to come out even with the cyclo and would love to have the high speed of the PC and the effectiveness of the cyclo on those really bad ones.
 
Thanks.



I know with no pressure it spins as it rotates. It doesn't seem to take much stop it spinning. I'll try the hand on top motor instead of the handle trick.
 
It doesn't matter if it spins or not, so don't worry about it. I ditched my handle a long time ago, all it did was exaggerate the vibrations and make it awkward. Just remember to let the PC do all the work. There's no need to bear down on it while polishing. Light pressure at first and finish with only the weight of the machine.
 
JDookie said:
I'm really glad you are saying this about the 4" pads because I sometimes have scratches that just don't want to come out even with the cyclo and would love to have the high speed of the PC and the effectiveness of the cyclo on those really bad ones.
Click to expand...



FWIW, I still find the Cyclo more effective, despite its supposedly slower speed, so don't expect the PC/4" to remove anything the Cyclo can't. Just making sure I wasn't misunderstood. While the PC/4" works fine on the Mazda, it doesn't do much on the Audis. But it's *certainly* worth getting the backing plate and trying it for yourself. I got the 3.5 "flexible" one, not that it does much real flexing.



The products I used to such good effect with the PC/4" Cyclo Green were the PI-III RC and MG.



A big :xyxthumbs to your trying the Meg's stuff so you can discuss it from a first-hand perspective.
 
Accumulator said:
FWIW, I still find the Cyclo more effective, despite its supposedly slower speed, so don't expect the PC/4" to remove anything the Cyclo can't. Just making sure I wasn't misunderstood. While the PC/4" works fine on the Mazda, it doesn't do much on the Audis. But it's *certainly* worth getting the backing plate and trying it for yourself. I got the 3.5 "flexible" one, not that it does much real flexing.



The products I used to such good effect with the PC/4" Cyclo Green were the PI-III RC and MG.



A big :xyxthumbs to your trying the Meg's stuff so you can discuss it from a first-hand perspective.
Click to expand...



Gotcha on what to expect on the 4" pads. I figure that I can't go wrong since I already have the pads, and all that was stopping me was a simple backing plate. The 4" pad on the PC almost seems like it would clasify as an entirely different tool, and you can't have too many tools!



As far as the Meg's line, it's discussed constantly around here and I hate not having first hand knowledge of something that's discusses so often, so now I can find out for myself, join in, and maybe help out a few people in the process. After I'm done playing with the Meg's stuff, I am going to hit the PB's SSR's next, but that won't be for a long time because I got the big 32oz. bottles of Meg's so I have a LOT of detailing to do before I'm ready to buy something new.
 
JDookie said:
As far as the Meg's line, it's discussed constantly around here and I hate not having first hand knowledge of something that's discusses so often, so now I can find out for myself, join in, and maybe help out a few people in the process. After I'm done playing with the Meg's stuff, I am going to hit the PB's SSR's next..
Click to expand...



:xyxthumbs I find that quite admirable. I've sorta gone the other way, distilling down my products/processes, with the result that I can't always be of as much help as I'd like.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top