Paint Removal, Road Paint?

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pj5000

New member
Can anyone provide any tips on removing some paint that's stuck to my rear bumper?

Looks like it was result of sling. It's dark blue. I used AIO and Scratch Remover to no avail. Fingernails only smear it. Acetone smeared it to heck and even yellowed the paint which is very unfortunate. I stopped all together and am just figuring out what to do. If you have any suggestions, please help on removing the paint and possible the yellowing, too.



Thank you.



2002 330i Sport Alpine White

P21s Shampoo

Klasse AIO

Klasse SG

Sonus Acrylic Glantz

Sonus Quick Detailing Spray

P21s Wheel Cleaner



Problem: Nasty dark blue sling on my rear bumper will not budge, only smears.
 
pj5000 said:
Can anyone provide any tips on removing some paint that's stuck to my rear bumper?..
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Welcome to Autopia!



Sorry to hear about the paint problem. Wonder if clay would get it off :think: That's usually what I try first. Lacquer thinner might be an OK solution, it seldom bothers factory paint but I'm always nervous about using it for jobs like this.



There's always wetsanding (with very fine paper like 3000 or even 4000 grit). The sanding scratches from fine papers like that polish out easily enough.



I recently removed lane-line paint from an Audi using FK1119 (a decontamination wash). Sorta surprised me that the FK1119 took that stuff off, so I would *not* be surprised if it worked for you. It might be a simple solution.



Source: Finish Kare, Automotive, Marine, Aerospace, Mold Release Agents, Paint Contamination The guys at FinishKare are friendly and helpful and might have some other ideas about what you should try.
 
Thanks for the info.

I'm looking into the FK product. Since I can only get it online, I was thinking of trying something I can purchase soon...like Goo Gone or a Meg. Claybar kit. Have you heard of Goo Gone being used in this case?



I've read that FK removes some yellowing as well. This is good because when I used the acetone on a spot, it yellowed my paint.

Thanks again for the help!
 
I would spray some lacquer thinner on the panel, let it sit a few seconds, and respray. Then use the pressure washer, and it should get most of it off. Anything that is remaining use a plastic razor blade to get the rest. You will have to repolish and wax the area.





John
 
Try the clay first, as it's the least dangerous way. It should take it off; I've done several cars that had overspray on them and clay worked wonderfully.
 
Found this doing a search for Road Paint
Road paint is usually like a 2 part epoxy and is very difficult to remove if possible at all. Depends on how "hot" the solvent was they were using. All you can do is spray with a "safety solvent" like Valugard's new car prep or a body shop prep sol and scrape with a plastic razor blade. As long as it is fairly fresh you will eventually get most of it off. If that doesn't work you can try to carefully "chip" the chunks of paint off with a new, sharp razor blade being careful not to gouge the paint. Do not use paint thinners or any solvent containing xylene or clear coat failure will occur prematurely. You can probably use tolulene (spelling?) without damaging the clear but make sure to wash all residue of the car after application.
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pj5000 said:
Thanks for the info.

I'm looking into the FK product. Since I can only get it online, I was thinking of trying something I can purchase soon...like Goo Gone or a Meg. Claybar kit. Have you heard of Goo Gone being used in this case?



I've read that FK removes some yellowing as well. This is good because when I used the acetone on a spot, it yellowed my paint.

Thanks again for the help!
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I've never tried Goo Gone for this..I've used it to remove adhesive residue and I *think* it'll be too mild. Sure no harm in trying though.



Don't expect the FK1119 to be quite as wonderful as they say it is ;)



David Fermani brought up a good point, scraping with a plastic razor blade is a fairly safe way to do that kind of mechanical agitation :xyxthumbs



Note on the lacquer thinner: it'll do a serious number on any post-production paintwork. You wouldn't be the first person to find out a panel had been repainted (say, at the factory or point-of-importation) by using the thinner on it ;) On true OE/factory paint it doesn't necessarily precipitate clearcoat failure quite as readily as some (say, a company selling another product ;) ) might have you believe.



AutoInt/ValuGard's New Car Prep is one of my favorite cleanup solvents, but it didn't do a thing to the road paint on that Audi.
 
Accumulator - Interesting thing is that there's really no difference between an "OEM" finished bumper(per the OP) and one repainted in a body shop. I'm also still on the fence with the whole xylene debate from years ago. Is it safe to use in moderation or not? :nixweiss
 
Thanks for the help everyone.

I went with Meguiar's Clay kit....and it did NOT work. Bummer.

It did remove a lot of the "ink" so it's faded somewhat. Oh yeah, it looks like I squished a pen and the result is an ink splatter line...Looks like an EKG graph on my rear bumper.

Anyway, the clay was working nicely. I'm surprised how easy claying actually is?

I noticed the ink sticking to the clay immediately but after 30 minutes, the clay wasn't picking up anything...it remained white after awhile.

I'm thinking that's the best I can get with the clay.

Other suggestions would be welcomed. Oh, the clay picked off that "yellowing" caused by the acetone as well...thankfully.

So...keep the tips coming. I might have to get aggressive here or just live with it or paint over it...I guess I could post a pic.
 
I had the same thing..a spot of road paint on my door for a few months as i was too lazy to get to it.



Ended up claying and rubbing profusely on it for a few minutes as it gradually dissappeared. Used lots of ONR as lubricant and seemed to work well.
 
I do have another fresh unopened claybar to try. Do claybars normally loose their effectiveness after use? I will try the AIO as well before going to the razor blade.
 
What do you mean by clogged? The claybar was new and removed lots of the ink, as it stuck to the clay. After 30 minutes, the claybar was no longer attracting ink...it just remained that white color. It wasn't pulling anything after a while. The ink stain has faded somewhat but still remains. The stain is embedded, it feels like, smooth to the touch...
 
If it's smooth to the touch you may have to go another route. Clay usually stops being effective after the paint is smooth to the touch. Clay is meant for picking up surface contaminates, not the deep embedded paint problems.
 
I don't think the clay so much gets clogged, rather it gets smooth/less abrasive as it gets used/loaded with stuff (including lube residue).



And yeah, when something's smoothed over the clay can slip over top of it instead of "bumping into it" and shearing it off.
 
I think I know what you mean. I was lubing the heck out of the surface and the clay was just gliding across the ink, no longer pulling it off. I just looked at the line today and i can still feel something tangible when I use my fingernail over the line. I think a razor may suffice. I'll use the clay one more time before trying.
 
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