oxidation and scratches

K

Kadunc

New member
If you have a car that has very bad oxidation and bad scratches, would you just use the ssr compounds? Like from ssr3 then ssr2.5 then 2.0 then 1?

Would you have 2 use them all? :)
 
is it a SS paint?

I get excellent result with ssr 2.5 and a white LC polishing pad at speed 6

Check my latest detail that I posted just now.
 
It's unlikely that you'll need to use all of them. It all depends on how deep the scratches are, but you'll probably want to start with SSR2.5 first. From there, you can decide whether you need to step up to SSR3 or step down to SSR2 or SSR1 for a final polish.
 
:yeah that's good advice...especially if you know you have scratches and oxidation to start...but... if it is single stage paint, you may want to try a whole different approach and start with a chemical cleaner vs. a mechanical cleaner.
 
Stumbled on this thread. I'm mighty interested, considering that this discussion is on single stage paint. Poorboy, what chemical cleaner would be in your suggestion list?

I ask because I'm pretty new to this whole passion and am getting confused by the minute. But then again, I cringe everytime I see the oxidation and the swirls on my single stage car. I sort of wanted to veer away from the mechanical cleaners.
 
I am not Poorboy but,
A few products that are great chemical cleaners are:
Poorboys Polish with Carnuaba or Pro Polish ... I haven't used these 2 but have read rave reviews.
Products I have used are:
Klasse AIO ... great cleaner and base for wax or sealant ... easy to use
Adams Polishes' Revive ... Easy to use and leaves a clean finish
 
My favorite chemical cleaners are Poorboy's Pro Polish, Meguiar's Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner, and Klasse AIO.
 
madman said:
Stumbled on this thread. I'm mighty interested, considering that this discussion is on single stage paint. Poorboy, what chemical cleaner would be in your suggestion list?

I ask because I'm pretty new to this whole passion and am getting confused by the minute. But then again, I cringe everytime I see the oxidation and the swirls on my single stage car. I sort of wanted to veer away from the mechanical cleaners.
Click to expand...

Today I worked on a 1995 black Lexus LS 400 with SS paint. After washing and claying I tried Meg's #80, but didn't do the job, so I turned to SSR2.5 with an Edge 2000 blue polishing pad and it worked wonders!

The only problem I had was the weather - it was too cold and took me 5 passes to get a swirl free finish although once the sun came out for awhile it only took 2 passes but had to stop eventually.

I am going back when weather is above 40

Here is an example for you - what you don't see in the picture is the automatic car wash induced swirls on the sides. They are all over. Of course you can see how oidized the paint is. (don't have any after SSR2.5 pictures.)

I'd say do it right the first time and get those scretches/swirls out now and maintain your paint properly.

tn_119_1973.jpg
 
madman said:
Stumbled on this thread. I'm mighty interested, considering that this discussion is on single stage paint. Poorboy, what chemical cleaner would be in your suggestion list?

I ask because I'm pretty new to this whole passion and am getting confused by the minute. But then again, I cringe everytime I see the oxidation and the swirls on my single stage car. I sort of wanted to veer away from the mechanical cleaners.
Click to expand...

I did a severely oxidized Miata a while back and used mostly Poorboy's products (Pro polish, SSR1, PwC and EX), it worked great:

Pro polish worked great at removing the oxidization.
Here is a side by side with Pro polish applied by hand:
miata_hood.jpg


If you are looking to get swirls out you are going to need some type of abrasive polish, a paint cleanser won't do much for swirls. For some of the deeper swirls on that Miata I used DACP and was able to remove about 90% of the swirls!
Here is an after shot:

miata_after.jpg



Hope this helps and good luck!
 
Thanks for the replies, guys.

My greatest fear is when I see the red car's color coming off on my applicator. That's the big reason why I hesitate to use any swirl remover. I wouldn't want to keep rubbing and eventually be reaching the primer! The paint coming off - is this a natural thing that is to be expected? Must I get worried if this happens? Won't this happen with Megs 80, Poorboy's Pro Polish, SSR 2 and SSR 2.5?

What if I use 3M PI SMR for Dark Paints? The impression I get is that this product is not mechanically abrasive. (Somehow, the 3M line-up is pretty much confusing.)

I'd gladly use a product that will not take away paint from my car's surface. Would that be possible?

I apologize for such elementary questions. I'm fairly new to this hobby and I'm struggling with how to approach my swirl problem in the best, most economical way possible. Thanks again.
 
If you use any type of abrasive you will remove paint. The reason this doesn't seem alarming on a clear coat car is that clear coat is, well, clear. On a single stage paint you will start to turn your pad the color of the car, this is normal as long as the color on your pad is not very heavily concentrated. It should not look like you painted your pad, it should look like a little bit of paint that was mixed with your compound. I hope this helps.
 
Do Poorboy's Professional Polish and their Polish w/ Carnauba have the same abrasiveness (even though they're not abrasives) as Sonus Paintwork Cleanser (other cleansers) or do they have a little more ability to fill (or even remove?) swirls?

Carl
 
madman said:
Thanks for the replies, guys.

My greatest fear is when I see the red car's color coming off on my applicator. That's the big reason why I hesitate to use any swirl remover. I wouldn't want to keep rubbing and eventually be reaching the primer! The paint coming off - is this a natural thing that is to be expected? Must I get worried if this happens? Won't this happen with Megs 80, Poorboy's Pro Polish, SSR 2 and SSR 2.5?
Click to expand...

You will see red on the pad if you use any type of polish (mechanical or chemical) because you are removing oxidized paint. You'll even see red using something like a cleaner wax. I would worry too much about rubbing it down to the primer, you'd have to use a pretty abrasive compound and work that one spot for a while for that to happen.


What if I use 3M PI SMR for Dark Paints? The impression I get is that this product is not mechanically abrasive. (Somehow, the 3M line-up is pretty much confusing.)
Click to expand...
3M SMR has mechanical abrasives and some fillers in it.



I'd gladly use a product that will not take away paint from my car's surface. Would that be possible?
Click to expand...

It would be possible but it will do very little if not anything for the finish.

If you are too worried about removing too much paint then, what I would do is, use the least abrasive polish, something like Pro Polish to remove any oxidization. Then use a finishing polish something like SSR1 or 3M SMR removes very very little paint and see if that helps minimize them and then top that with a glaze and wax.

If you want to remove swirls, you have to level the paint.....products with fillers or oils only hide minimal amounts or swirls and don't last very long.
 
Thanks for the input, gentlemen. You have answered many of the nagging questions in my mind. I appreciate it.
 
blkyukon said:
If you are too worried about removing too much paint then, what I would do is, use the least abrasive polish, something like Pro Polish to remove any oxidization. Then use a finishing polish something like SSR1 or 3M SMR removes very very little paint and see if that helps minimize them and then top that with a glaze and wax.

If you want to remove swirls, you have to level the paint.....products with fillers or oils only hide minimal amounts or swirls and don't last very long.
Click to expand...

I have another question. I love using AIO. If I am to use PB Pro Polish then either SSR1 or 3M SMR, when should I apply the AIO? Or do I even use it at all?

And yet another one: Instead of topping with a glaze or wax, after using the above, can I top off with a sealant like UPP?
 
Step #1 - AIO or PB Pro Polish (no need to use both)
Step #2 - Apply your abrasive polish (SSR1 or 3M SMR).
Step #3 - Seal. Have any EX-P, UPP, etc..?
Step #4 - Top it off with the carnuba of your choice.
 
No problem.

Don't let the paint transfer alarm you. It's common on single stage paint, especially if it's been neglected for a while. I detailed a single stage red blazer last year that hadn't been touched in years, and had to throw out 2 pads, but I didn't wear through the paint. I think you'd have to put in a heck of an effort to completely remove the paint with AIO and a polishing pad using a PC.


You might have to repeat the first step twice (AIO or Poorboys Pro Polish).

Good Luck!

The thread below shows the single stage blazer.
http://www.detailcity.com/showthread.php?t=7666
 
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