Orange Peel removal on 09 JeeP SRT8

when you see the comments on amazing before and after shots, they are generally the same. "awesome job, great work, etc" I don't know the words here, but this deserves something far better than that. insane <<---that's a good start.
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
Never thought to check the doorjambs or roof...
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How are you estimating how much clear there is? All the PTG is doing is measuring total thickness of primer, base coat, and clear coat. I usually take door jamb reading as a way to get an estimated baseline of primer and base coat. Then subtract that number from your panel readings to get an approximate amount of clear coat.
 
ihaveacamaro said:
How much was in the doorjambs? That to me usually is critical.
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Just a FWIW-caveat, many of my vehicles had *vastly* different readings in doorjambs and other out-of-the-way places. Some vehicles weren't even cleared there!

4u2nvinmtl said:
Never thought to check the doorjambs or roof...
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The roof would be better IMO based on the above.
 
Well I didn't know the doorjambs weren't clear coated on mine they look the same as the rest of the paint, but under the hood I did notice some parts that don't appear to be clear coated...

Too bad the detailer with the PTG didn't think of that.
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
Well I didn't know the doorjambs weren't clear coated on mine they look the same as the rest of the paint, but under the hood I did notice some parts that don't appear to be clear coated...

Too bad the detailer with the PTG didn't think of that.
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I'm not saying your doorjambs aren't clearcoated, just that they aren't on some vehicles. It does seem like the not-cleared underhood areas are more common.
 
Accumulator said:
Just a FWIW-caveat, many of my vehicles had *vastly* different readings in doorjambs and other out-of-the-way places. Some vehicles weren't even cleared there!
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But... that's exactly what I'm hoping for! If there's no clear, my readings are showing me primer and base coat. So I can get a baseline level of primer and base coat and estimate how much clear there is. Emphasis on estimate.
 
ihaveacamaro- Right, but when there's some clear, but not as much as on the rest of the car, things can get tricky. And yeah..it's all estimating/guessing/gambling anyhow.

Possibly weird example- my old Mazda MPV minivan had uncleared areas like we're discussing, just ecoat/primer/basecoat. But the basecoat was just an *extremely* light "fog coat" of paint, I cut through it the first time I did a very mild polishing wih stuff that was nearly nonabrasive. Real "oops!" moment that, as you can probably tell ;) left me gun-shy on this topic.
 
My Wet Ice Over Fire, hydro-tech Pads, APC, Reflect polish and other stuff finally showed up! ;)




I've finally made up my mind again now that the products are finally here...

Final Polish:
I'm going to stick with M205 and a tangerine hydro-tech pad because have enough paint left and M205 will cut more than Reflect in order to quickly remove any severe marring from OP removal. Then I'm going to follow up with a red hydro-tech pad and some E-Z cream glaze. The E-Z cream glaze will be to add gloss and to provide a good base for the LSP (I heard it deals with the TSO in the M205).

LSP:
Blackfire Wet Diamond topped with Midnight Sun.

Questions:
 - What's the preferred way to apply Wet Diamond; by hand or by DA?
- How long do I need to let the E-Z Cream Glaze cure before topping with Wet Diamond? (no cure times indicated on the labels)
- How long do I let Wet Diamond cure before topping with Midnight Sun? (no cure times indicated on the labels) A: "2 coat BFWD an hour apart, wait 4 hours and 2 coats MS an hour apart" -Orinda Auto Detail
 
Glazes add gloss by filling in scratches. If you're removing orange peel and polishing your surface to a defect free surface, you're wasting your time with the glaze. I would move straight to the BFWD and MS.

BFWD is best applied with a red pad on a DA in my experience. It's so easy to apply!
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Glazes add gloss by filling in scratches. If you're removing orange peel and polishing your surface to a defect-free surface, you're wasting your time with the glaze.
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My thought is that I'd be "working-forward" by using the E-Z Cream Glaze to deal with the TSO while further improving the look (filling in any fine marks left by M205) rather than doing an IPA/eraser wipe down.

In short I'm trying to make use of the products I have without buying more (don't own any eraser and I'm apprehensive about doing a full IPA wipedown).
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
My thought is that I'd be "working-forward" by using the E-Z Cream Glaze to deal with the TSO while further improving the look (filling in any fine marks left by M205) rather than doing an IPA/eraser wipe down.

In short I'm trying to make use of the products I have without buying more (don't own any eraser and I'm apprehensive about doing a full IPA wipedown).
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BFWD has solvents of its own. Chances are you can go straight from wiping off M205 with a MF towel to applying BFWD. I wouldn't worry about the oils because you're not applying a coating and don't need a medically sterile paint condition. Between the BFWD and MS you'll apply after, your car will have good protection.

I'm a fan of keeping it simple :)
 
Some sorta-random thoughts follow:

-Sometimes the Meguiar's TSO mess with subsequently-applied products, sometimes they don't
-Sometimes the Meguiar's TSO are an incredible pain to remove, sometimes they're not
-The product description "Glaze" gets used in all sorts of different ways these days and you can't always tell what a "[whatever name] Glaze" product really is from the name

Hey, that's a big jug of 303! What're you gonna do with all that?
 
Well I washed my SRT8 last night and used the foam gun for the first time. I really like the foam gun but it does use a lot of soap.

Anyways I skipped out on work today do the final polish as I haven’t had any time (and it's been raining), 7 hours of polishing later (including clay bar, m205 polishing, and Wet-Ice application) and it looks ever so slightly better.

The Wet-ice is much easier to work with than Klasse SG (IMHO). I always have to buff very hard to knock down the lasse SG but the Wet-Ice came off like nothing I hardly had to apply pressure and I didn’t have to wipe 10,000 times like with the Klasse SG. Yes, I did and do use the Klasse a little too much (thick) and it makes it harder to wipe off but I like to be able to see where it’s going on... Anyways Wet-Ice > Klasse SG for application IDK about longevity or looks.

I didn’t take any pictures because it was dark by the time I finished but tomorrow I promise I'll take pictures (wife took the ones below with her phone)






Is there any benifit to layering the Wet-Ice?

*Currently waiting four hours for the Wet-Ice tocure (not sue if I'm going to layer or not)...
 
4u2nvinmtl- Heh heh, yeah...no $#!~ the foamgun can use lots of shampoo ;) At least depending on how you use it.

KSG really, *REALLY* needs to go on so thin that you cannot see it. If you can see it you used so much-too-much that I'm not surprised it was a PIA. Get it on t thin (maybe a half-ounce max for your Jeep), let it set up for a while, fog the surface with your breath as you buff it, and it'll come off easily. But it sounds like you're gonna quit using it, so oh well...I *DO* think that multiple (>5) layers of KSG is about as good as it gets when it comes to protection and durability though (right up there with fewer coats of FK1000P).
 
Yeah I've done many many applications of Klasse and I've been putting it on thinner and thinner but still its harder to wipe off than Wet-diamond, my preferred Klasse SG application method is WOW and it works great for me. I just really wanted to try a different sealant after working so hard on the OP removal (only used Klasse and wax's up until now). I'll still be using the Klasse for the winters and/or for family/friends cars I do (altho I do have 1gallon of GC butter wax that I need to start using)

I did 3 coats of Wet-Diamond 5 hours apart and it looks ridiculously good (like 6-8 layers of Klasse). The paint is so slick the towels just slide off the hood now. Going to hit it with Midnight Sun wax today and head out to a car show to show it off and take some pictures (I'll be sure to take some without any postprocessing or filters).

Million dollar question:
How do I clean Wet-Diamond from my pads? (searched and found an old 09 thread that basically says I'm SOL)
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
Million dollar question:
How do I clean Wet-Diamond from my pads? (searched and found an old 09 thread that basically says I'm SOL)
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Just dedicate the pad and clean it as best as you can... But it sounds like you pretty much read up on and knew that was gonna happen ;)

Jeep looks gsrt8! My bad joke of saying great lol
 
I'm officially 100% completed at last!

Here are the pictures without any modification or filters as requested:









I am so happy with the results! The reflections are so crazy now that the OP is virtually gone. In the first shot you can see a pedestrian walking clearly in the reflection.

P.S. Midnight Sun smells so bad I was gaging at first (smells bad, like sweaty obese BO). That really made me put it on thin as my whole car and garage started to stink like midnight sun. I put that stuff on so thin like the way I should be doing my Klasse LOL... But it looks great!
 
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