Orange dots on white paint!!!

melissa809 said:
Thanks, guys....but I looked up the tutorial for claying on this site...and the guy clearly states that it is an abrasive and should only be used twice a year...that some guys tend to use it once a month and inevitably DO damage their clearcoat....just very nervous...this being a brand new car, and all
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BTW, this was the marketing setup for the Sonus green clay, that other clays may be abrasive, but the Sonus green is gentle enough to be used all the time. The Meg's Smooth Surface clay is similarly mild.
 
the only damage a clay will do is very light marring on the softest of dark paints,unless you drop it, then toss the clay because you run the risk of pick up large debris which will mess up your paint.



only reason the article mentions twice a year is to keep the paint smooth and its the rule of thumb for when bonded contaminates reappear
 
Jeff. AutoKraft said:
There is no way it is in the finish being a new car! it is definately surface contaminants of some sort. If you dont want to use clay,first try wax/grease remover. spray it on & let sit for couple minutes then lightly respray & wipe off, then polisx/wax afterwards as it removes all polish an wax thats on there plus tar & other grime. If that doesn't work the next step is using a clay bar (medium density) if that doesnt work,wetsanding is the only other way but id get a pro to do it for you!
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I meant that when you touch the spots you don't feel anything...the car was fine before last week...took it to a Mustang meet....lol...a bunch of us drove upstate...(I'm from NYC)....can you suggest a wax/grease remover that I can purchase at your local auto store?...and in the meantime, I am going to order the sonus clay



Thanks again
 
I would highly recommend the Meg's Smooth Surface kit. It has an extremely mild clay that absolutely will not abrade or otherwise marr the surface of your paint if done correctly. It comes with everything you need: 2 bars of clay (more than you will need), QD for lubricant (use plenty), Cleaner Wax (for when you're done) and a high quality micro fiber (Meg's Supreme Shine). All of that locally for ~$20.



I'm from NYC too, what borough you from?
 
David Fermani said:
Technically, if it marrs black paint, it with also marr white and/or even siver paint.
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you are absolutely correct, i meant to type "show" very light marring on black or dark paint
 
hopefully it isnt fallout. In my area the local dodge has a lot by a power plant and all the fallout drops onto their back lot cars. I tried using both clay magic blue and the meguiars white clay and they both barely touched the orange dots on the caliber's silver paint... I ran out of time to try body solvent.. only other thing I had after that would have been polishing which I wouldn't want to do...
 
Brandon1 said:
I'm not shocked to see that the answers here were the same answers from Tundrasolutions.com detailing sub-forum.
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I know..I know...but the idea of ANY type of abrasive hitting the paint on my brand new car scares the crap out of me...lol...not to mention the two major MAN-figures in my life...my Dad and brother....who ARE major car guys have NEVERclayed a car and act as if I'm speaking Martian to them.
 
JimmyCutlass said:
I would highly recommend the Meg's Smooth Surface kit. It has an extremely mild clay that absolutely will not abrade or otherwise marr the surface of your paint if done correctly. It comes with everything you need: 2 bars of clay (more than you will need), QD for lubricant (use plenty), Cleaner Wax (for when you're done) and a high quality micro fiber (Meg's Supreme Shine). All of that locally for ~$20.



I'm from NYC too, what borough you from?
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Hey...I'm in Queens..out in Howard Beach/Lindenwood...originally from Astoria....you?
 
I was scared also the first time I clayed my truck. Once I got started and saw that it was a piece of cake, my fears went away. Just remember to use plenty of clay lube, work in small areas, wipe up the lube from the paint once your done working in that area and knead your clay often. Kneading it often will help to ensure that any abrasive contaminants trapped in the clay will not harm your paint. Also, if you drop it, get rid of it. I dropped a bar one time and when I picked it up it was covered with dirt, small pebbles, etc. It sucked to have to throw it away, but it was better to do that then to mess up my paint.
 
Clay alone will do the job. But it will take a long time. Especially if you ordered a very fine green one. You better plan on a couple of hours or more. Assuming you have it everywhere. I used Black Pearl #3 & #4 on my Wife's suv. It took care of everything quicker than clay did.
 
You'd be surprised how screwed up your "brand new car" paint really is. Have you ever noticed under the sun (you will have to really look for it on white), the spider webbing effect, and other random scratches that you can't imagine how they got there? Most of that is from the dealership "detailers" that do a crap job, and improper washing. Check out some of the click & brags, and Pro detail click & brags. You'll see what I'm talking about. Even 100K Ferrari's come with the factory installed swirling.
 
Sounds like an ideal time to get a Decon kit!



Essentially the FK kit is the one mostly used and its a pretty good set up. It has three stages. You have to use all the stages, and in the right order as they are alkali, acidic and neutral.



It will remove all sorts of fall out and bonded crap that gets on your paintwork, ideal for white. It removed so much crap from the paintwork of a '92 MX5 it was amazing!



First you wash on the Alkali cleaner which removes all sorts of from the paintwork, including iron oxides which might be what is on your paintwork.



The second stage is a pretty potent step so you might want to avoid smelling this one! It will cleanse the paintworks pores, similar to say a paintwork clean but its acidic it will neutralise the result of ferrious pariticuls amongst other things.



Finally there is a neutral cold water shampoo/wash which causes any ferrious particals to pop out the paintwork. Being neutral is cleanses acid rain areas etc. Its the same 118 shampoo you can buy anyway from FK.



Its worth noting when i say acidic i dont mean it so much as your pouring acid on your paintwork. Its just a different PH to normal shampoo. No doubt somewhat controversal but its designed for these kinda cases when even polishing and claying just wont get a car clean. Often you note this on white when it still appears to be stained or "bits" are still in the paintwork.



Geoff
 
I actually like the ValGard system better because it uses an acid 1st instead of an alkaline. Kinda like when cleaning heavy amounts of break dust from wheels. You start with an acid and then follow with an alkaline.
 
David Fermani said:
I actually like the ValGard system better because it uses an acid 1st instead of an alkaline. Kinda like when cleaning heavy amounts of break dust from wheels. You start with an acid and then follow with an alkaline.
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I will bare that brand in mind next time, at the moment FK are the only brand on sale with a Decon kit in the UK. But i spend alot of time in SLC, i will see if they have some 32oz bottle to take back with me!
 
It's not that big of a deal. If you can wash your car, you can do an ABC wash.



Advantages:

*less time

*better paint prep

*no marring



I think every car could benefit from it...
 
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