Optimum no rinse and shine and the 2BM

J

jevan

New member
Hi there



I have purchased some NOR from ZAS to add into my wash bucket to add the extra lubricitiy in the hope of less marring and scratching of my paint, but i have an issue.



Is there an order of how I am supposed to add NOR to my bucket.? Because what i usually do it put my soap and then NOR before filling up bucket with warm/hot water. But what i have been noticing is that the NOR seems to clump with the soap into clusters as if the NOR were encapsulating my soap?



So i tired to put NOR into a bucket and then hot water and then my soap in last and mix the bucket manually. What i noticed was that as soon as I squirted my soap into the NOR water filled bucket the solution became all cloudy instantaneously. is this normal? Am i doing it wrong?



thanks guys.
 
Some say it softens the wash solution a touch and adds a little beading effect. Your findings may vary.



I would add ONR to an already prepared wash solution, not prior.
 
David Fermani said:
Some say it softens the wash solution a touch and adds a little beading effect. Your findings may vary.



I would add ONR to an already prepared wash solution, not prior.
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ONR definitely softens the water and helps prevent hard water spots. However, when using a traditional soap you have to rinse with a hose anyway, so you lose the water softening effect.
 
Seems like a job for the myth busters team! Personally I feel that you're wasting money adding ONR to car wash.
 
Agree with D&D and others. Why? ONR V3 works great on its own.



What I have done on occassions with some auto wash mixes is add a couple of squirts of a QD (like #34, Z-6) for added gloss/lube.
 
Very good point about having to hose it off anyway, this is the water that will most likely leave the water spots before you run around and try to dry it. ONR by itself is my choice, only when it's very dirty will I rinse off first, then follow with ONR.
 
jevan said:
Hi there



I have purchased some NOR from ZAS to add into my wash bucket to add the extra lubricitiy in the hope of less marring and scratching of my paint, but i have an issue.



Is there an order of how I am supposed to add NOR to my bucket.? Because what i usually do it put my soap and then NOR before filling up bucket with warm/hot water. But what i have been noticing is that the NOR seems to clump with the soap into clusters as if the NOR were encapsulating my soap?



So i tired to put NOR into a bucket and then hot water and then my soap in last and mix the bucket manually. What i noticed was that as soon as I squirted my soap into the NOR water filled bucket the solution became all cloudy instantaneously. is this normal? Am i doing it wrong?



thanks guys.
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Hey jevan, ONR works best by itself.



If you want to use a traditional detergent I would put a diluted amount in a spray bottle, saturate the car, rinse the loosened dirt off with a hose, then do a proper ONR wash (maybe double strength to counter diluting effect of the rinse-water sitting on the paint).



Or just do an ONR wash from scratch. If you use plush MF and a gentle wash method you shouldn't get any marring.
 
What a waste of time and water... Not to mention the 2BM generally includes 2 Grit Guards, and an extra bucket... A waste of money IMO.



Try my wash method.



 
Alfisti said:
Interesting...how do you compare IUDJ with ONRv3 if you do an ONR pre-spray? Cost?
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My IUDJ is roughly 4 times as concentrated as a rinseless wash and is far more concentrated than that as a waterless wash. Use only 1/2 of an oz to 24 oz of water with IUDJ as a ww, glass cleaner, clay lube, light carpet cleaner, detail spray, spray wax....
 
David Fermani said:
Agreed, but it may reduce these water spots that could happen while the soap is sitting on the surface?
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If that's happening to an extent that it's an issue, the wash regimen needs tweaking. Not saying it wouldn't help, but I'd rather correct the technique's issues than merely find a fix for them.



Also, note that ONR and the "dislodge and flush" method are incompatible (just a reminder for those who do the D-&-F thing).
 
Alfisti said:
How do you mean..[ONR and the "dislodge and flush" method are incompatible ]...?
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The way I see it, ONR works by getting the dirt to transfer to the wash medium (somebody correct me if I'm wrong about that!). Note how people often say that their mitts are so dirty after ONRing and how many rely on GritGuards to help get the dirt out of their wash media.



With the D&F approach the dirt does literally get flushed off the car, it doesn't stick to whatever wash medium I'm using. If I see significant dirt in my rinse bucket (from it having adhered to the wash medium) I figure I messed up the wash; usually the rinse water is nice and clean even after washing a winter-filthy vehicle. My big emphasis is on *not* dragging dirt (stuck to my wash media) across the paint, regardless of whether it's encapsulated/caught in the nap of a mitt/whatever.
 
Garry Dean said:
My IUDJ is roughly 4 times as concentrated as a rinseless wash and is far more concentrated than that as a waterless wash. Use only 1/2 of an oz to 24 oz of water with IUDJ as a ww, glass cleaner, clay lube, light carpet cleaner, detail spray, spray wax....
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IUDJ has the same dilution rate as Ultima Waterless Wash (22oz). What is the cost difference?
 
Accumulator said:
The way I see it, ONR works by getting the dirt to transfer to the wash medium (somebody correct me if I'm wrong about that!). Note how people often say that their mitts are so dirty after ONRing and how many rely on GritGuards to help get the dirt out of their wash media..
Click to expand...



I thought the primary effect is dirt encapsulation (better than soap) so it can be picked up. If you spray ONR on a dirty car (pre-soak process), you will see the water wet small areas where there is dirt and the dirt disappears within the wet areas. I do not see the same effect with traditional soap.
 
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