Opti-coat vid , review
- Thread starter mx5
- Start date
Guess my name,
They warrant that it will work the way they describe if you follow the directions correctly. According to the bottle they will allow you to return it to the store you bought it at provided you followed the directions and still do not like the results. The also say you must return it with a letter stating why you are returning it. This is a lifetime warranty so if after repeated regular applications, and two years later you see your paint is fading, you can return it.
They warrant that it will work the way they describe if you follow the directions correctly. According to the bottle they will allow you to return it to the store you bought it at provided you followed the directions and still do not like the results. The also say you must return it with a letter stating why you are returning it. This is a lifetime warranty so if after repeated regular applications, and two years later you see your paint is fading, you can return it.
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DETAILKING [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>http://www.fototime.com/83E9217762C00DE/orig.jpg
I used a painted steel surface and rubbed using the various products. In my opinion from the results, the ones that turned the applicator BLACK definately contain abrasives. [/b]</blockquote>Isn't it possible that a strong solvent could also turn the applicator black by dissolving the paint?
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DETAILKING [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>http://www.fototime.com/83E9217762C00DE/orig.jpg
I used a painted steel surface and rubbed using the various products. In my opinion from the results, the ones that turned the applicator BLACK definately contain abrasives. [/b]</blockquote>Isn't it possible that a strong solvent could also turn the applicator black by dissolving the paint?
DETAILKING
New member
But not as BLACK as those applicators got in a short amount of time with not much rubbing. Remember, the chemicals can only get so strong until you need rubber gloves to apply the product. One would hope that it isn't the chemicals. I mean, do you want to use something that chemically harsh on your paint? And to think some people feel dawn is harsh! Naw.....it was definately the abrasives that caused the paint transfer..........but draw your own conclusions...........
Also, I wouldn't count on your fingers to test for abrasives. The problem with these products is that the abrasives are not benchmarked. There is no way of telling just how strong they are depending on the amount or size of them. It's not like sandpaper which is classified (600 is finer than 400,etc,etc), so you know what product to grab for any application. There will always be some guessing.
Also, I wouldn't count on your fingers to test for abrasives. The problem with these products is that the abrasives are not benchmarked. There is no way of telling just how strong they are depending on the amount or size of them. It's not like sandpaper which is classified (600 is finer than 400,etc,etc), so you know what product to grab for any application. There will always be some guessing.
forrest@mothers
Serious no BS kinda guy
Another point to consider is the type of paint used on your prop, and how it compares to automotive paint. Some of the carriers/solvents in the waxes you tested may be removing some of the paint, in addition to the cleaners in them.
The strength of the solvents used in Nu-finish are quite apparent when you open the bottle, and that may account for some of the paint removal.
I know our product has some cleaners/polishes/abrasives (choose your word) in it, but considering the type and size, they are, in my opinion, acceptable to 99.5% of the detailing populace.
It just so happens this board comprises the other .5% of the population.
Abrasives aren't bad in and of themselves. As I said earlier, their size(s), composition and method of use are what matters,
The strength of the solvents used in Nu-finish are quite apparent when you open the bottle, and that may account for some of the paint removal.
I know our product has some cleaners/polishes/abrasives (choose your word) in it, but considering the type and size, they are, in my opinion, acceptable to 99.5% of the detailing populace.
It just so happens this board comprises the other .5% of the population.
Abrasives aren't bad in and of themselves. As I said earlier, their size(s), composition and method of use are what matters,
DETAILKING
New member
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by forrest [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Abrasives aren't bad in and of themselves. As I said earlier, their size(s), composition and method of use are what matters, [/b]</blockquote>
I agree, it was far from a scientific test and that is why I ask people to draw their own conclusions. Again the purpose of the test was to determine the relative "harshness" of products across the board, not to say that any product that contains abrasives is necessarily BAD. In particular to show products that claim no abrasives yield similar results to products that we know do contain them.
All those products have their uses. On new paint that has been properly prepped, I just prefer to stick with abrasive free systems. I don't see any reason to use abrasives on good paint other than removing swirls. And by doing this you create finer scratches and swirls. You go finer and finer till they are not visible with the naked eye. But how fine are the abrasives in each of these products? Who knows..... So other than that, I just don't see the purpose, but this is my detailing philosophy. On my friends 5 yr old civic on the other hand, that probably has never been waxed, that I detailed 3 months ago, well, I grabbed the nu finish first!
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by forrest [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Abrasives aren't bad in and of themselves. As I said earlier, their size(s), composition and method of use are what matters, [/b]</blockquote>
I agree, it was far from a scientific test and that is why I ask people to draw their own conclusions. Again the purpose of the test was to determine the relative "harshness" of products across the board, not to say that any product that contains abrasives is necessarily BAD. In particular to show products that claim no abrasives yield similar results to products that we know do contain them.
All those products have their uses. On new paint that has been properly prepped, I just prefer to stick with abrasive free systems. I don't see any reason to use abrasives on good paint other than removing swirls. And by doing this you create finer scratches and swirls. You go finer and finer till they are not visible with the naked eye. But how fine are the abrasives in each of these products? Who knows..... So other than that, I just don't see the purpose, but this is my detailing philosophy. On my friends 5 yr old civic on the other hand, that probably has never been waxed, that I detailed 3 months ago, well, I grabbed the nu finish first!
forrest@mothers
Serious no BS kinda guy
It depends on what your needs are.
A real problem for me is the use of the word abrasive. I know the point has been beaten to death, but, depending on many factors, better choices might be polish or compound. Unfortunatly, there's no hard and fast rule when to use what in the consumer world. Size does matter. and, so does the composition and shape of the particulate.
Add to that, in the consumer world polish refers to the middle step (which is more accurately a glaze), and the problem continues.
There's just no good answer or solution.
A real problem for me is the use of the word abrasive. I know the point has been beaten to death, but, depending on many factors, better choices might be polish or compound. Unfortunatly, there's no hard and fast rule when to use what in the consumer world. Size does matter. and, so does the composition and shape of the particulate.
Add to that, in the consumer world polish refers to the middle step (which is more accurately a glaze), and the problem continues.
There's just no good answer or solution.
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DETAILKING [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
I agree, it was far from a scientific test and that is why I ask people to draw their own conclusions. Again the purpose of the test was to determine the relative "harshness" of products across the board, not to say that any product that contains abrasives is necessarily BAD. In particular to show products that claim no abrasives yield similar results to products that we know do contain them.
All those products have their uses. On new paint that has been properly prepped, I just prefer to stick with abrasive free systems. I don't see any reason to use abrasives on good paint other than removing swirls. And by doing this you create finer scratches and swirls. You go finer and finer till they are not visible with the naked eye. But how fine are the abrasives in each of these products? Who knows..... So other than that, I just don't see the purpose, but this is my detailing philosophy. On my friends 5 yr old civic on the other hand, that probably has never been waxed, that I detailed 3 months ago, well, I grabbed the nu finish first! [/b]</blockquote>very well put, making me think about using a less harsh system on my new car
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DETAILKING [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
I agree, it was far from a scientific test and that is why I ask people to draw their own conclusions. Again the purpose of the test was to determine the relative "harshness" of products across the board, not to say that any product that contains abrasives is necessarily BAD. In particular to show products that claim no abrasives yield similar results to products that we know do contain them.
All those products have their uses. On new paint that has been properly prepped, I just prefer to stick with abrasive free systems. I don't see any reason to use abrasives on good paint other than removing swirls. And by doing this you create finer scratches and swirls. You go finer and finer till they are not visible with the naked eye. But how fine are the abrasives in each of these products? Who knows..... So other than that, I just don't see the purpose, but this is my detailing philosophy. On my friends 5 yr old civic on the other hand, that probably has never been waxed, that I detailed 3 months ago, well, I grabbed the nu finish first! [/b]</blockquote>very well put, making me think about using a less harsh system on my new car
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Take any oxidized non-clear, like an older car, say built in the late 60s, early 70's, or one that has a cheap refinish and the vehicle is exhibiting fading, a dullness to the paint, etc.
Mix some water and rubbing alcohol, 50/50 and a clean white terry towel, spray the solution on the paint, rub with the towel firmly on the surface specified, and look at the white towel,(of course not on a white vehicle) and look!
The towel will have the color on it!
Course, most "instant detailers" etc are not much more than alcohol and water, so are those damaging, because the "removed" "paint"? Are they "abrasive" as Detail King is always worrying about? Is the rubbing alcohol a damaging solvent?
Is the towel too abrasive?
None of these is a factor, just that the portion of the paint, the color you see on the towel is the result of the top portion of the paint's resin system is broken.
Sorry, but some way or another, in order to restore the gloss factor, you have to get the "dead", as so many like to refer to it, off the top of the good part of the non-clear paint.
Abrasives, as Forrest has attempted to state, and I agree with, are not a big issue, the solvents, if you know them and/or trust the manufacturer is not an issue. They are there for a purpose, and any chemical supplier/mamufacturer who has been around for more than a few years knows this.
Just that the "New Kids on the Block" are always attempting to create "converts" to their "better, don't trust the old folks" supposed chemistry.
Well, what do you think?
Ketch
Mix some water and rubbing alcohol, 50/50 and a clean white terry towel, spray the solution on the paint, rub with the towel firmly on the surface specified, and look at the white towel,(of course not on a white vehicle) and look!
The towel will have the color on it!
Course, most "instant detailers" etc are not much more than alcohol and water, so are those damaging, because the "removed" "paint"? Are they "abrasive" as Detail King is always worrying about? Is the rubbing alcohol a damaging solvent?
Is the towel too abrasive?
None of these is a factor, just that the portion of the paint, the color you see on the towel is the result of the top portion of the paint's resin system is broken.
Sorry, but some way or another, in order to restore the gloss factor, you have to get the "dead", as so many like to refer to it, off the top of the good part of the non-clear paint.
Abrasives, as Forrest has attempted to state, and I agree with, are not a big issue, the solvents, if you know them and/or trust the manufacturer is not an issue. They are there for a purpose, and any chemical supplier/mamufacturer who has been around for more than a few years knows this.
Just that the "New Kids on the Block" are always attempting to create "converts" to their "better, don't trust the old folks" supposed chemistry.
Well, what do you think?
Ketch
What I wonder about is swirl inducing abrasives...can a chemical induce swirls if put on with the softest known substance to man?
OT: Ron K
Your post made me think of an earlier post of yours about Liquid Ebony. I heard someone somewhere else raving about it.
Getting ready for New Orleans I hope...Train that liver!
OT: Ron K
Your post made me think of an earlier post of yours about Liquid Ebony. I heard someone somewhere else raving about it.
Getting ready for New Orleans I hope...Train that liver!
imported_RIC
New member
"Take any oxidized non-clear, like an older car, say built in the late 60s, early 70's, or one that has a cheap refinish and the vehicle is exhibiting fading, a dullness to the paint, etc."
"Mix some water and rubbing alcohol, 50/50 and a clean white terry towel, spray the solution on the paint, rub with the towel firmly on the surface specified, and look at the white towel,(of course not on a white vehicle) and look!
The towel will have the color on it!"
I don't see the point. There is no need to even use alcohol and water with a cotton towel: Just rub your hand over it and paint will come off on a paint condition described as above.
If your clearcoat layer or top level of paint is dull or oxidized it makes good sense to use products with abrasives/high solvents to remove this layer.
But if the top layer is already in good shape why use products that unnecessarily strip off any of the paint? Over time the small amount of paint removed adds up. The abrasives/solvents have no way of distinguishing between oxidized paint and non-oxidized paint.
Also, regular use of products with abrasives/high solvents will not allow layering of the product the way products without abrasives will.
"Just that the "New Kids on the Block" are always attempting to create "converts" to their "better, don't trust the old folks" supposed chemistry."
It is not an issue of chemistry--I don't think anyone is arguing about the way to remove oxidation. The new philosophy is why use a product that can remove it if the painted surface it is being applied to has no visible oxidation?
"Mix some water and rubbing alcohol, 50/50 and a clean white terry towel, spray the solution on the paint, rub with the towel firmly on the surface specified, and look at the white towel,(of course not on a white vehicle) and look!
The towel will have the color on it!"
I don't see the point. There is no need to even use alcohol and water with a cotton towel: Just rub your hand over it and paint will come off on a paint condition described as above.
If your clearcoat layer or top level of paint is dull or oxidized it makes good sense to use products with abrasives/high solvents to remove this layer.
But if the top layer is already in good shape why use products that unnecessarily strip off any of the paint? Over time the small amount of paint removed adds up. The abrasives/solvents have no way of distinguishing between oxidized paint and non-oxidized paint.
Also, regular use of products with abrasives/high solvents will not allow layering of the product the way products without abrasives will.
"Just that the "New Kids on the Block" are always attempting to create "converts" to their "better, don't trust the old folks" supposed chemistry."
It is not an issue of chemistry--I don't think anyone is arguing about the way to remove oxidation. The new philosophy is why use a product that can remove it if the painted surface it is being applied to has no visible oxidation?
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Yeah, if not oxidized, why get agressive with a product, but then using Dawn dishwashing detergent to strip a surface?
That is agressive to the plastizer content of a clear or a non-clear, so what why the solvents, because they do clean , but unless a clorinated solvent, will not damage the resins system!
Affect layering?? How ever told you that who could back it up with anything other than some " I heard from" sort of thing?
Layering is NOT going to be affected by the solvents, since they are in 99% of any of the products being discussed and they do evaporate!
So, what is it you are going for here, I really am confused on what the issue is?
Ketch
That is agressive to the plastizer content of a clear or a non-clear, so what why the solvents, because they do clean , but unless a clorinated solvent, will not damage the resins system!
Affect layering?? How ever told you that who could back it up with anything other than some " I heard from" sort of thing?
Layering is NOT going to be affected by the solvents, since they are in 99% of any of the products being discussed and they do evaporate!
So, what is it you are going for here, I really am confused on what the issue is?
Ketch
ISLANDSBEST
New member
Personalization, she ess a fore-beed-den thing heeere. Facts, not people.
imported_RIC
New member
"Layering is NOT going to be affected by the solvents, since they are in 99% of any of the products being discussed and they do evaporate!"
If the solvents or the abrasives are strong enough to remove oxidized paint then they will surely be strong enough to remove the previous layer of polish/wax.
"Yeah, if not oxidized, why get agressive with a product, but then using Dawn dishwashing detergent to strip a surface?"
Dawn is something not to be used on a regular basis. I don't believe anyone here preaches using it often. I recommend using it one time to remove the previous wax coating if going to the Zaino system.
I am sure that many of the environmental contaminants that a car is exposed to are much more harmful to the paint than a single Dawn wash.
If the solvents or the abrasives are strong enough to remove oxidized paint then they will surely be strong enough to remove the previous layer of polish/wax.
"Yeah, if not oxidized, why get agressive with a product, but then using Dawn dishwashing detergent to strip a surface?"
Dawn is something not to be used on a regular basis. I don't believe anyone here preaches using it often. I recommend using it one time to remove the previous wax coating if going to the Zaino system.
I am sure that many of the environmental contaminants that a car is exposed to are much more harmful to the paint than a single Dawn wash.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Good, little, by little, you are starting to see the light.
Ketch
:bounce
Ketch
:bounce
DETAILKING
New member
They have been around for ages and are based on first generation polymer technology. Don't get me wrong, there are still some good products out there that provide excellent results for the right application, but they have not evolved to today's automotive paint/clearcoat systems, which have changed a lot over the years. With these products the abrasives are often used (other than possibly marring your paint and adding additional cleaning) to tweak the usability and extend the durability of the formula. It gives the protectant or sealant a BITE on to the paint system. Kind of short cut way of bonding in chemistry terms. Remember, most of these systems were the first generation of polymers.
I have to agree with RIC. Of course a 1970's car is going to have oxidation on it that needs to be stripped with an abrasive product. I am talking about newer cars. Today's clear coats are thin and soft, and if the paint is in good condition, again, I see no reason to use an abrasive product on it........OR.....a hi solvent abrasive system on it that was probably designed years ago to be compatible with paint systems of that time period.
These products still have an active role in detailing and have their uses, but I wouldn't make a practice of using them often on newer paint on a regular basis.
GM seems to agree........This is right out of their owners manual.......
".....You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your
dealer. (See "Appearance Care
and Materials" in the Index.) Your vehicle has or may have a
"basecoat/clearcoat" paint finish. The
clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are
non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.
I have to agree with RIC. Of course a 1970's car is going to have oxidation on it that needs to be stripped with an abrasive product. I am talking about newer cars. Today's clear coats are thin and soft, and if the paint is in good condition, again, I see no reason to use an abrasive product on it........OR.....a hi solvent abrasive system on it that was probably designed years ago to be compatible with paint systems of that time period.
These products still have an active role in detailing and have their uses, but I wouldn't make a practice of using them often on newer paint on a regular basis.
GM seems to agree........This is right out of their owners manual.......
".....You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your
dealer. (See "Appearance Care
and Materials" in the Index.) Your vehicle has or may have a
"basecoat/clearcoat" paint finish. The
clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are
non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
What is good and what is bad, many times is in the eye of the beholder.
I am, as I type, waiting for the prints of the pictures of the many private label products we supply GM, Ford, DCX, Nissan etc for the NADA show.
All are engineering tested and approved, and ALL the paint products that clean, polish and protect contain hydrocarbon solvents and various abrasives, dependant on what the function of the product is intended to do.
Ketch
I am, as I type, waiting for the prints of the pictures of the many private label products we supply GM, Ford, DCX, Nissan etc for the NADA show.
All are engineering tested and approved, and ALL the paint products that clean, polish and protect contain hydrocarbon solvents and various abrasives, dependant on what the function of the product is intended to do.
Ketch
CosminTX
ProReflection
this review is for application and water test next day.
the aplication is easy , if you are familiar with opti-seal than this should be easy for you.
the prep is where you have to take your time.
the car was polished before coating. is a daily driver , 50k miles/2 years so don`t judge me by my car.
back to opti-coat , the seringe i got has 40cc , and i think i can cover between 16-20 cars , 1 application each.
overall the paint feel very smooth , looks pretty sharp not sure if has wax or seal effect. probably more into the seal look.
after polish steps the car was wipe down with alchool , and foam-gun with dawn.
once dry i apply opti-coat with foam pad.
the vid is from next day and as you can see the paint is left almost dry.
i am very happy with this product and look fw to see the durability.
the aplication is easy , if you are familiar with opti-seal than this should be easy for you.
the prep is where you have to take your time.
the car was polished before coating. is a daily driver , 50k miles/2 years so don`t judge me by my car.
back to opti-coat , the seringe i got has 40cc , and i think i can cover between 16-20 cars , 1 application each.
overall the paint feel very smooth , looks pretty sharp not sure if has wax or seal effect. probably more into the seal look.
after polish steps the car was wipe down with alchool , and foam-gun with dawn.
once dry i apply opti-coat with foam pad.
the vid is from next day and as you can see the paint is left almost dry.
i am very happy with this product and look fw to see the durability.