Opinions on best filler for black...

B

Bill87GN

New member
I have a few spots that I can not get out for the life of me. The clear coat seems far to tough for anything short of a rotary or wetsanding. At any rate, I'm looking for opinions on what you would think was the best filler. I've read a lot about VM on black and that it works awesome...I have also read a lot about NXT and it's ability to mask some imperfections. Just looking for opinions on what you have used to do what I am trying to accomplish. I think a glaze would be the best because of it's final "look." Anything that I use is going to get topped with S100

TIA
 
I'd say VM followed by S100, as many times as you have patience for. I know a lot of people believe layering is impossible, but I remember the depth I had with 4x S100 on mine, and I didn't get it with 1x S100, thats for sure. I'd say make sure to get atleast 3 coats down. I did them over NXT, and I liked it at the time, but I think VM will give a nicer, wetter look, wheras NXT will give a clearer shine.
 
Out of curiosity, what process have you used to try to get these stubborn spots out?



I really don't like relying on a glaze to mask a problem area since it will always come back to haunt you, but if I were forced to choose a product for this purpose, I would choose 3M SMR for dark colors.
 
Thanks for the input guys



Jason, current process was as follows. It seems my clearcoat is extremely hard

Started with SSR2 and a Sonus green pad, speed 5 and up to 6. Multiple passes moving very slow, not much difference. Stepped up to DACP and a green pad. Same process not much happening. DACP and an orange pad and we started getting somewhere. Multiple passes on the bad areas still didn't remove them. Figured this is something I may need a rotary for, so dicided that was as good as it's getting right now. Followed that process with SSR2 and a green and SSR1 and a green. Looking for a glaze now to cover any of those spots that really weren't coming out.
 
Bill87GN said:
Jason, current process was as follows. It seems my clearcoat is extremely hard

Started with SSR2 and a Sonus green pad, speed 5 and up to 6. Multiple passes moving very slow, not much difference. Stepped up to DACP and a green pad. Same process not much happening. DACP and an orange pad and we started getting somewhere. Multiple passes on the bad areas still didn't remove them. Figured this is something I may need a rotary for, so dicided that was as good as it's getting right now. Followed that process with SSR2 and a green and SSR1 and a green. Looking for a glaze now to cover any of those spots that really weren't coming out.
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I might be in a minority when I say this, but I find DACP to be highly overrated and not very abrasive at all. Don't get me wrong, it's a *decent* product but *to me* it's not all that much stronger than #80 which is supposed to be a lot more mild.



My suggestion would have been to either try 3M PI III RC or SSR 3 before moving down to SSR's 2 and 1. As you can see, I like 3M products. They are available locally and do a magnificent job. The SSR's are supposed to be very good too, but you didn't use a strong enough product.



Oh yeah, I also highly dislike glazes. I use them as a last resort, and I don't think you are at that stage yet.
 
I'm with Jason. With a revised polishing approach I think there's good room for improvment. Give it a shot :up
 
JDookie said:
I might be in a minority when I say this, but I find DACP to be highly overrated and not very abrasive at all. Don't get me wrong, it's a *decent* product but *to me* it's not all that much stronger than #80 which is supposed to be a lot more mild.
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Just depends on how hard the paint is and what you are trying to remove. #83 has done about 90% of the cars I've detailed or helped detail using a PC, some cars have hard paint and for that I have use my rotary buffer for which #83 just falls apart to quickly and then bring out the Malco polishes. I don't believe #83 is necessarily more abrasive than #80, just doesn't break down as quickly so you can polish longer with the same amount of product if that makes sense to you.



But I'm all for filling swirls rather than removing them, you don't want to over buff a car and a good filling wax is great for in-between buffing.
 
Thought about Z5?

Hardly the cheap option but just wanted to mention something that may not have occurred to you already.

A few layers does a pretty good job of hiding swirls.
 
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