Only option to repaint?

C

Chris G

New member
Well I asked the local detailer when I dropped it off for a detailing package if they sold buffer pads or any other detailing products (having a real hard time finding anything like that locally, and I work 12 hours a day and live in an area where they can't leave packages at the door for some reason) and the detailing manager was standing next to the car when I asked, he asked why, I showed him some of the scratches, most noticeable on the hood and he said that I can't fix that with a buffer by only glancing at it, and never even touched the scratches. He said I could hide them with wet sanding, but my only real option was to have the car repainted.



I believed him until I picked up the car the other day and noticed these guys haven't a clue what they are talking about (posted a thread in the car detailing section explaining my terrible experience with these people).



So my question is, from a photo of the scratches, can you guys tell me if it's too far gone or not? I honestly can't feel anything with my finger nail, and I had 4 friends also test with their finger nail and they as well can't feel anything.





(Click on photo for enlarged version)



Appreciate any insight, as I want to buy a buffer and some products and fix this car up, I'm in love with it but I bought it used and these scratches were already on it.
 
I agree. With some sanding those would likely turn body colored, and would only be visible under direct light. The deeper one toward the bottom right of the pic looks like it may require a little touch up but even without the touch up a wetsand/compound would reduce them quite a bit, imo.
 
If those scratches are all the way into the primer, not even wetsanding will help. Might look better but probably best to do a test section before doing the whole area.
 
If anyone that's local to the SE part of Michigan reads this and has the ability to gauge the scratches to recommend if I should try anything or not, feel free to let me know. I can pay you for your time. I have no idea how to tell if it's to the primer or not, I can't feel a change in the surface, but honestly I'm probably the last person to ask as I have next to zero experience in this kind of stuff.



Thanks for the input everyone.
 
ChrisG said:
He said I could hide them with wet sanding, but my only real option was to have the car repainted.



I believed him until I picked up the car the other day and noticed these guys haven't a clue what they are talking about
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"hide them with wet sanding" is basically word salad and indicates that the speaker either doesn't know what he's talking about or is trying to BS you.



You can at least make that marring a whole lot better even if you can't remove it completely.
 
ok so some of them I can feel with my finger nail now if I really focus, I guess this isn't something I should jump into doing as practice on the new car, maybe find an old beat up car and scratch it and try to repair it and leave this to the professionals. I'm afraid of messing it up and making it worse since I don't actually know how bad the damage is and what needs to be done.
 
Chris G said:
If anyone that's local to the SE part of Michigan reads this and has the ability to gauge the scratches to recommend if I should try anything or not, feel free to let me know. I can pay you for your time. I have no idea how to tell if it's to the primer or not, I can't feel a change in the surface, but honestly I'm probably the last person to ask as I have next to zero experience in this kind of stuff.



Thanks for the input everyone.
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Marc and Jacob are in Michigan....not sure how close this is to you but they would be your best bet and can monitor with their PTG that they are only removing safe amounts of clear coat.



Auto Lavish



Marc Harris and Jacob Bunyan

Rochester, MI

Phone: 248-514-5676

Email: [email protected]

Website: http://www.autolavish.com





I'd have to agree with the others that they can be improved significantly, but some look too deep and many of them are on a body line too.







Rasky
 
RaskyR1 said:
Marc and Jacob are in Michigan....not sure how close this is to you but they would be your best bet and can monitor with their PTG that they are only removing safe amounts of clear coat.



Auto Lavish



Marc Harris and Jacob Bunyan

Rochester, MI

Phone: 248-514-5676

Email: [email protected]

Website: http://www.autolavish.com





I'd have to agree with the others that they can be improved significantly, but some look too deep and many of them are on a body line too.







Rasky
Click to expand...



Agreed. If Marc and Jacob aren't available and it's not too far of a trip, I'm in Lansing and can also help you out.
 
Judging from the photo the white ones towards the right-center are going to be the only ones that are too deep. All the other ones will become unnoticeable or removed.



P.s. Those bodyshop guys are complete idiots. Touch-up paint would be a much easier option for the deeper scratches.
 
Would you guys say from the photo that I'd be able to try and do this myself by using a buffer with some sort of compound, or should I just take it to someone who knows what they're doing?
 
The answer is: NO



Chris G said:
Would you guys say from the photo that I'd be able to try and do this myself by using a buffer with some sort of compound, or should I just take it to someone who knows what they're doing?
Click to expand...
 
Chris G said:
Would you guys say from the photo that I'd be able to try and do this myself by using a buffer with some sort of compound, or should I just take it to someone who knows what they're doing?
Click to expand...



-AND-



tdekany said:
The answer is: NO
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I can go both ways on this....it's safest to let somebody with experience do the work and to learn before trying something on a vehcile you value.



BUT, OTOH, plenty of people try it and do just fine the very first time. There are innumerable variables here....so :nixweiss



Guess it's best to listen to tdekany and err on the side of caution :think:
 
Alrighty then, figured I'd ask so I knew if I could at least try to doctor it up a to not be as noticeable until I was able to get it into someone, guess it won't kill me to leave it be till then. Thanks Autopia.
 
Chris G said:
Alrighty then, figured I'd ask so I knew if I could at least try to doctor it up a to not be as noticeable until I was able to get it into someone, guess it won't kill me to leave it be till then. Thanks Autopia.
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OR...get some good microfiber towels and some foam "wax applicator pads" and try a DIY using known-quantity (or rather "known-quality") OTC products like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and/or Ultimate Polish, doing the work by hand. Top with their NXT synthetic wax. Oughta do the "not as noticeable"-level fix with minimal chance of anything going wrong if you follow the directions.
 
Thanks for the tip Accumulator, I've always respected your posts, for some reason I'd always scan for a post from you or Scottwax before I had registered here and became more active, can't say why but my subconscious picked you two (have become more aware of how many people on here are incredibly knowledgeable and grow to love this forum more with each thread I read)... I'll give your 'not as noticeable' fix method a whirly whirl and post back the results.



Edit*



I've seen all three items you listed coincidentally, however the only NXT wax I've seen (different locations) doesn't actually say synthetic, is there one that is specifically synthetic or is the nxt just synthetic? Thanks to everyone who's bothered posting a helpful idea, you all rock :rockon:.
 
Chris G said:
I've seen all three items you listed coincidentally, however the only NXT wax I've seen (different locations) doesn't actually say synthetic, is there one that is specifically synthetic or is the nxt just synthetic?
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The NXT is just synthetic. I was merely trying to point out that NXT isn't a "conventional wax" in the "all carnauba" sense.
 
I noticed what seems to be some paint transfer on the back of the driver mirror (which is painted the same as the car, dark ink metallic (very dark blue) and some paint transfer on the bumper as well, only seems to have the white paint transfer though, doesn't seem to be scratched or dented, can I use the prescribed method on these spots as well, or is removing paint on top of the clear coat a whole nother ball park?
 
Chris G- Paint transfers sometimes come off very easily; I'd try clay first. IF that doesn't work you could gradually go up the scale from paint cleaners (e.g., Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step #1 Cleaner or maybe their Color-X) to a mild polish, to finally a compound like the Ultimate Compound. That's the "try the least aggressive method first" approach that everybody advocates.



Or you could just try the clay and if that doesn't work go straight to trying the Ultimate Compound.



But I would try the clay first.
 
Accumulator said:
Chris G- Paint transfers sometimes come off very easily; I'd try clay first. IF that doesn't work you could gradually go up the scale from paint cleaners (e.g., Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step #1 Cleaner or maybe their Color-X) to a mild polish, to finally a compound like the Ultimate Compound. That's the "try the least aggressive method first" approach that everybody advocates.



Or you could just try the clay and if that doesn't work go straight to trying the Ultimate Compound.



But I would try the clay first.
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I think I'll try the clay first. I dismissed the use of clay because that 'nightmare detailing' service I had claimed to of clayed the entire exterior, being that they messed everything else up, might as well act as if they did nothing.. I'll have to research how claying works, as I've never done it before and have questions as to if it's reusable or not, I've heard you roll it over into itself once it discolors a bit. Thanks for the advice, going to do both of these tonight or tomorrow (depending on spare time) and post back results. Thanks again.
 
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