LouisanaJeeper said:
I know there dealer cost is around $19 for this particular vehicle. $20 is a good deal, $19.5k or so being optimal.
I know true original dealer cost is around like $19K for this one (w/holdbacks/etc) but I'm not sure how much it costs to get it from another dealer?
It all depends. They have no problem working out anything. They will paint it purple and yellow and tie a ribbon on it if that 's what it take to sell the car. I wouldn't worry about "cost to get it". That's where you start to get too clever for your own good. What if "someone" drives the car over to the "new" dealer? Do you really want those miles on it? (I wonder if this thing really will do 160?). Maybe they will "transport" it over just for you. Maybe.
I have some thoughts for this thread, if you will allow me.
I used to sell Hondas. Don't want to discourage you or tell you what to do, but selling cars was a tough business, especially during certain times of the year. It's not a public service, many have families to feed and NO they might not give you the car at what you think is fair. Believe it or not, there was a time we put additional dealer profit on the stickers of Honda's when the market was hot. Salesman were making $60-150K a year. Took orders and waited for it to come in. Supply and Demand, baby. Supply and Demand.
You say "I know" dealer cost is around $19K. Do you? Dealer cost or wash out? With or without factory programs? The salesman usually don't know...unless they have sold a long time and then they pretty well know where the good deal line. Best they don't know. The sales manager can help you make money keeping you in the dark somewhat.
I sold many a car at mini- commision. Didn't mind my $60. Put beans on the table. Gave me another unit sold towards bonus, etc. What used to bug me was when someone didn't know they had a good deal. I don't mind wasting my life for $6 per hour on one customer all day if it's slow, but on a busy Saturday it really gets old. Unless the dealership shows you "the book"...you'll never really know what they can or will sell a car for.
Like stated above, there are lots of factors at work. I've always got great deals because I'm up front, don't get mad, know the "real" ball park figures. Seems to me you were being offered the car at about 80% MSRP. Is that a good deal?
I buy in late Dec or Jan at the end the week/month. I like a week/month that had lots of lousy weather, especially the weekend I'm looking. I've planned my buy months before. I try and find "the board" if possible to see how sales are going that day. I go in very late in the afternoon. I don't trade or finance or lease. I want to know two things...."What do you want for that car?" and how bad do these guys want to sell a car today? I treat them with respect, I don't assume they are crooks, or cheats or double talkers until they prove otherwise...then I walk. I already know all about the car I want that can be known with certainty... list, "invoice", what they ask for last years same model "in the paper at close out", color, options, extras, etc. I don't bull s... or jerk them around pretending to know things I don't. I'm realistic on the price of a "hot" product as opposed to the "bean can". I find an experienced salesman but know the guy who asks the questions is in control of the deal. I always let them know that IF I like the deal I WILL BUY TODAY...and I MEAN IT. I never use the net. I always let them know I am in no hurry to buy a car, and I mean it. I don't waste their time or mine. When they have me convinced its bottom line time or walk I say, "OK, I'll buy now IF you'll give me these assesories at cost and install them free." That usually works, but I always KNOW there comes a point you are not going to get it any lower and you better be ready to buy. I don't make or take it personal. They are "not" my buddies and I don't want to be theirs. We are horse trading, you see. Yes, yes.
I never lie. That way I never have to remember what I said. AND, IF I left a FEW dollars on the table then so what. You can spend weeks trying to keep that last $100 dollars and end up being sorry you tried. You'll be the guy some dealer got rid of "That Car" on. The roll back, the one that dropped off the ramp, the one they had to "fix", the one they buffed out because it got scratched. Yes, yes. We can go that much. One final thought, THE VAST MAJORITY OF CROOKS I saw in the car business where people trying to trade in their piece of cr#p and lying about it all the way. I NEVER worked in a place that "cheated" little old ladies or anyone else. You make a deal or you don't.
I hope this gives you another perspective on car buying. I wish you good luck in getting that car you want at a price you feel good about. If your really stuck and don't feel really good about the deal, don't buy. Try another dealership and get a fresh start. And if that doesn't work, try someone else. And if that doesn't work try something else.
I like new cars, but your BEST deal is buy a GREAT "used" car from a private seller. They usually give them away at $XYZ over trade in or loan value because they don't trust car dealers.
What do I know? What do I care? It's your money.
SO, you're back where you started. How do you know if your getting a good deal? :nixweiss . You tell me.:usa