Here's my tutorial on PC use to prevent such hazing (I've had it happen to me too, so don't feel bad.) that I've discovered to work about 99.99% of the time.
Firstly, be sure to only work one half of the hood at a time, this concentrates the abrasives and heat more and tends to correct more defects, better.
1) Work in a side-to-side pattern, on one whole half of the hood (from the front all the way to the back)
2) Work in a front-to-back battern, on one whole half of the hood (from the edge all the way to the halfway point.)
3) Work in a diagonal pattern, on one whole half of hood. Be sure to cover everything.
4) Work in a front-to-bakc pattern, on one whole half of the hood (from the edge all the way to the halfway point.)
Work this 4-step cycle over again until all product is broken down. Always end with #4, so your final pass is front-to-back. I believe this to minimize the appearance of defects. I also like to think that it helps the aerodynamics of the vehicle to some part (I know it doesnt really, but its just wishful thinking on my part).
When buffing the residue and dust off the surface, go 90-degrees perpendicular to your final pass with the PC. This will pull more of the residue off than going in other directions will.
Repeat on the other half of your hood, and you're done!
As for your existing problem, try this 4-step process with some mild paint cleaner, such as PPCL. Work it at ~speed 4, and see if the hazing is gone. If so, continue by applying a different glaze such as Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze, topping it with a wax.
I usually do a PPCL and re-glaze with #7 anyways after an SMRing, because I find that by removing the SMR fillers and adding #7, the surface becomes much more reflective. Also you might want to work-in the wax topper you are using a little bit with this same procedure to make sure the wax isnt whats hazing on you.
Hope this helps!
Pic:
But thats just my autopian overkill kicking in.