Oh my god!

R

RAG

New member
Just shoot me before I agree to do another overspray removal job like this one...actually it was okay, I just under bid the job is all.



Massive amounts of overspray everywhere...on every panel, in every crack. I had help on this one and we probably spent 6 hours claying. Still not done - have to go back tomorrow for a couple finishing touches.



As you can see, it was hammered with scratches and swirls...so the 3-step buff job was much needed, I just with I didn't have to clay till my arm fell off.



On the first two pictures you can see a distinct line where I polished and did not polish - the owner actually asked to see a sample first; I actually only did a two-step buff here. 3rd pic shows the overspray. Last shows the finished result in direct light.
 

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OMG! That is night and day difference.



You are right, we shouldn't shoot you for doing it, you should just not shoot yourself in the foot with quote.
 
Although I don't like the idea for taking care of a regular car, I think that might be an instance where you'd be justified in using one of wolfgang those PC clay pads.
 
qadsan said:
Which clay did you use?
Click to expand...



Some old opti-clay and yellow elastic-type clay from Excel Detail - I find I can apply pressure and not get deep marring with these clays.
 
JoshVette said:
Wow, very nice job.



Just curious what your exact process was, and what compound and polish did you use??



Rotary or PC?? I assume rotary.
Click to expand...





Rotary with orange LCVC pad and HTEC+OP and lots of pressure for first step. PO106FF via Green AB pad (aka P2) via rotary for the 2nd step, and my buddy finished the last step with same pad and product via PC with light pressure (almost no micromarring). Will finish with UPP today.
 
Instead of claying for 6 hours on your next overspray job, try wiping the paint with some reducer. Proceed with CAUTION on the C-pillars if the car was refinished there, you will open up the blend easily. This process should take about as long as a quick detailing job.



Use it on the glass also. If you plan on polishing the plastic lenses on the lights, do them to. I'd keep it away from plastic trim, it will suck the life out of it.



(If it's bodyshop overspray or latex paint, reducer will work, other types of paint will not be affected)
 
Man, the guy didn't even tip me and he clearly knew the "project" ran more than 4 hours over budget. That aint cool, but it's life in the detailing world I guess. Live and learn.



I'm going to think real hard before I accept another overspray removal job...cause I aint exactly hurting for work, so I mine as well be picky about my jobs. Typically, problem jobs are one-time customers...not people who will continue to come beck every 6 months for a buff job :(
 
jsatek said:
Instead of claying for 6 hours on your next overspray job, try wiping the paint with some reducer. Proceed with CAUTION on the C-pillars if the car was refinished there, you will open up the blend easily. This process should take about as long as a quick detailing job.



Use it on the glass also. If you plan on polishing the plastic lenses on the lights, do them to. I'd keep it away from plastic trim, it will suck the life out of it.



(If it's bodyshop overspray or latex paint, reducer will work, other types of paint will not be affected)
Click to expand...





I'm not sure what exactly you are referring two, but I did try some solvent I have which has worked to some extent in the past, but it didn't touch this stuff. It was narly.
 
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