NXT Paste

Well, it looks like it needs to be replaced lol, it's pretty hard though

If it's really hard it'll be a PIA to work with, but should still be OK functionally-speaking.

My little sample tin (that got me started on my whole FK1000P kick) was hard as a rock, had to moisten my applicator with FK425 just to use it and it was still challenging. Still worked perfectly fine, so well that I bought some even though I didn't know if that "hard" stuff was normal or not. To look at it in the tin, and during the whole application process...well, I sure didn't expect it to be OK, but I'm *so* glad I tried it anyhow.

So yours might be fine, if you're willing to wrestle with getting it on the car.
 
Oh I've used it a lot, in the past, I just started going with coatings, but I don't like how cautious I have to be about what kind of water might be hitting my paint, so I may go back to standard waxes/sealants purely out of less tendency to spot.
 
Now that I don't have much time I'm mostly using fk1000p as well. It and OCW are all that get any action.
 
As far as the topic, I would say to go with the ultimate paste wax instead of nxt. Now, I have heard good reviews on it, but those reviews were/are often times by those who don't have a lot of other product experience, or they are just those who buy a cheap polisher, slap the nxt and then say it's the best thing in the world. I know that sounds harsh, but I'm just saying you get what you pay for in almost everything....almost being the key word here.
 
As far as the topic, I would say to go with the ultimate paste wax instead of nxt. Now, I have heard good reviews on it, but those reviews were/are often times by those who don't have a lot of other product experience, or they are just those who buy a cheap polisher, slap the nxt and then say it's the best thing in the world. I know that sounds harsh, but I'm just saying you get what you pay for in almost everything....almost being the key word here.

I asked this very question about which is "better", NXT2.0 or Ultimate Wax in a recent past thread. Most would favor the newer Ultimate Wax foe ease of application and removal and its seemingly superior hydrophobic (water bedding) ability. Some think NXT has a little more "pop" (reflectivity?) on dark colors, In reality, neither is a true wax but a synthetic wax hybrid sealant (sounds oxymoronic to me).

I bought Collinite 915 after trying both 885 Fleetwax (476S marine twin equivalent) and 845 Insulator wax. It's a great wax for dark colored vehicles, especially black, if you like that glossy, deep reflective look. My wife's black 2006 Ford FreeStyle looks great for it's age and condition as a daily driver. I had the privilege of doing a friend's black Mercedes 550SL coupe and he said it looked the best its ever looked and turns heads. (it's the car, not the color, though)
Collinite 915 has the best of both worlds: longevity with great reflectivity and it's relatively inexpensive compared to "boutique" carnauba waxes, which I do not have simply because of the initial purchase price. Doesn't mean I wouldn't want to HAVE them (Pinnacle Souveran or Chemical Guy's 50/50 being examples), I just cannot afford them. Even spending $35.00 on 915 for 12 ounces for a can of wax is insane to the average car owner, until they see it on a properly prepared (IE compounded and polished) vehicle. Then you get the question, "What do you use to make your car shine so much?" Many do not realize the 3-6 hours of work claying and buffing/polishing with a DA that goes into prepping the paint (clear coat, actually) before a wax goes on.
 
I asked this very question about which is "better", NXT2.0 or Ultimate Wax in a recent past thread. Most would favor the newer Ultimate Wax foe ease of application and removal and its seemingly superior hydrophobic (water bedding) ability. Some think NXT has a little more "pop" (reflectivity?) on dark colors, In reality, neither is a true wax but a synthetic wax hybrid sealant (sounds oxymoronic to me).

I bought Collinite 915 after trying both 885 Fleetwax (476S marine twin equivalent) and 845 Insulator wax. It's a great wax for dark colored vehicles, especially black, if you like that glossy, deep reflective look. My wife's black 2006 Ford FreeStyle looks great for it's age and condition as a daily driver. I had the privilege of doing a friend's black Mercedes 550SL coupe and he said it looked the best its ever looked and turns heads. (it's the car, not the color, though)
Collinite 915 has the best of both worlds: longevity with great reflectivity and it's relatively inexpensive compared to "boutique" carnauba waxes, which I do not have simply because of the initial purchase price. Doesn't mean I wouldn't want to HAVE them (Pinnacle Souveran or Chemical Guy's 50/50 being examples), I just cannot afford them. Even spending $35.00 on 915 for 12 ounces for a can of wax is insane to the average car owner, until they see it on a properly prepared (IE compounded and polished) vehicle. Then you get the question, "What do you use to make your car shine so much?" Many do not realize the 3-6 hours of work claying and buffing/polishing with a DA that goes into prepping the paint (clear coat, actually) before a wax goes on.

On an average car with even light issues, I'm 10 to 15 hours on it. I've had jobs that took 25 or more hours. I don't believe that one has to spend hundreds of dollars on a wax don't get me wrong, and there was a show a few years ago where they used some of the 1k per can waxes all the way down to 915, even most pros could not tell the difference on 4 identical cars with identically prepped paint, so really for me it's about longevity, mar resistance, spot and other element resistance, slickness, etc, because it's just a fact that most will not be able to tell a difference.

I am not a fan or "liquid waxes" mainly because more stuff is added to soften the so called wax. I just feel (maybe wrongly) that a paste is in a more pure form.
 
... there was a show a few years ago where they used some of the 1k per can waxes all the way down to 915, even most pros could not tell the difference on 4 identical cars with identically prepped ...

[INSERT my oft-told story about an "expert" thinking 476S was DodoJuice because "nothing else looks like that.." ]
 
That's where I found it after reading (many years ago) about Collinite waxes on this forum. The 885 Fleetwax is the same as 476S Double detergent-proof wax, but in a 12 ounce can instead of the 8 ounce can of 476S.
While it seems packaged and marketed for fiberglass boats, it works extremely well on clear coat paints and lasts a good 9 months to a year. Cost is about $25.00 to $30.00 for a can that you can get at least 20-30 applications, depending vehicle size.
I like it's carnauba look and longevity, and I find it's a wax-on-wipe-off immediately application. Some let it haze of about 5 minutes. I find that if it sets(sits?) too long it becomes more difficult to remove. Plus you don't need to layer it; one application is good, BUT you can layer it if you feel so inclined.

One wax/sealant that ought to be considered for your collection is Finish-Kare's FK1000P wax; sometimes referred to as Hi-Temp Paste Wax. I cannot vouch personally for this wax, but highly-acclaimed and respected Autopian Accumulator uses and recommends this very affordable and durable wax with coating-like characteristics, including impervious to bug splatter and bird bombs and is almost self-cleaning when it rains. It's one wax on my "gotta-try-it" list.

Is FK1000P a good wax to use on top of Collinite 845? White Camry and Starfire pearl Lexus

I have Collinite 845 and Meg Ultimate Paste Wax - G18211.

Newbie here and still gathering information before my next detailing.

In the past, I would apply meg wax paste after a car wash and declare it as done which isn't exactly the right way to detail a car.



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Is FK1000P a good wax to use on top of Collinite 845? White Camry and Starfire pearl Lexus

I have Collinite 845 and Meg Ultimate Paste Wax - G18211.

Newbie here and still gathering information before my next detailing.

In the past, I would apply meg wax paste after a car wash and declare it as done which isn't exactly the right way to detail a car.



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Many seem to like FK1000 instead of Collinite 845. Both are technically sealants, so you wouldn't top one with the other. Top a sealant with just a showier type wax- if you're going to top. Topping a sealant with wax is purely a finesse thing. Not necessary if you don't want, but it's nice.
 
Many seem to like FK1000 instead of Collinite 845. Both are technically sealants, so you wouldn't top one with the other. Top a sealant with just a showier type wax- if you're going to top. Topping a sealant with wax is purely a finesse thing. Not necessary if you don't want, but it's nice.

will I gain any benefits from apply Blackfire wet ice over fire on top collinite 845?
 
If using FK1000P I see *zero* benefit from having another LSP as a "base" layer, and it just might (dunno for sure..) mess with the FK1000P's bonding/durability.

I think 845 is decent enough (preferred their pre-VOC formula though), but I'd only use it as a base for one of their other waxes and, eh...I'd only combine LSPs if I had a very good, and specific reason to do so.

IMO it's best to just find what you like and apply it as often as necessary.

Silento- IMO the FK1000P would simply be the *best* LSP for those colors...looks, protection, durability, whatever the goal it'd be perfect IMO. Only LSP I'd buy if I had those two cars. But honestly, I'd use up what you have now before spending money on anything else, and a bottle of 845 oughta last years (let alone the UPW that you also have).
 
i do not have UPW - Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer Free Bonus!

but I do have the items in the picture below,

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Silento- What you have now could probably keep a few vehicles well-detailed for a decade or so IMO :D

Heh heh, for once I'm not telling somebody to "buy [whatever]".
 
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