nxt over show car glaze
- Thread starter dtsang
- Start date
I don't know if you will see any results of the scg over a synthetic polymer or not. Your best bet is to contact meguiars to see if its possible. I do know you can apply scg over carnuba wax and then wax over that. One thing to keep in mind with scg is that you want to apply it and let it dry completely, and should let it sit overnight before applying any wax to let the polish do its job.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Sveta
New member
AdamJoe said:
How does letting "scg" sit overnight help "scg" do
its job?
The SCG needs to "soak" in to the paint to be most effective. If you use scg, you will notice that once you buff it off, it will have a tendancy to keep smearing. Ive noticed that letting it sit for a longer period of time after buffing the initial polish off, it will create a deeper gloss before you apply wax.
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
AdamJoe said:
Hi AdamJoe,
Actually, you can, and should remove any Meguiar's polish, (cleaner/polish like number #83 DACP, or pure polish like #7 Show Car Glaze), immediately after applying.
If you do a good job of working the product in, then the soaking aspect has already taken place.
The only time I personally apply #7 and let it soak, or penetrate for and longer time is when working on antique, neglected single stage paints.
Hope this helps...
Mike
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
AdamJoe said:Ahh, What do you know! It's not like you work for Meguiar's... wait a minute...Nevermind
I'm supposed to buff out a 1969 Mustang this week with fairly oxidized, single stage acrylic enamel. Before I buff it out, I will wash it and then apply a coating of the #7 Show Car Glaze to condition the paint before working on it.
It's just an extra step I like to take for older paints.
Mike
Spilchy
New member
Interesting Mike. You "condition" before you take an abrasive to it.
Wouldn't you use the buffer first to remove the beat paint, THEN lay down the #7 to moisturize and condition the fresh, exposed paint.
Kind of reminds me of priming a wall, then sanding it!
How exactly will this help? I don't doubt your technique. I'm very curious as to this intial step.
What will be your routine? Fine Cut Cleaner? DACP? Let me guess... stay tuned and ye shall be rewarded! Right?
Wouldn't you use the buffer first to remove the beat paint, THEN lay down the #7 to moisturize and condition the fresh, exposed paint.
Kind of reminds me of priming a wall, then sanding it!
How exactly will this help? I don't doubt your technique. I'm very curious as to this intial step.
What will be your routine? Fine Cut Cleaner? DACP? Let me guess... stay tuned and ye shall be rewarded! Right?
Mike Phillips said:
Mike,
Why is there smearing of scg on the paint after you buff it off? It seems like it doesnt want to wipe off unless you let it dry for some time before waxing. Am I correct then when assuming that you can wax right after removing scg and not be reducing the effect of scg?
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Spilchy said:Interesting Mike. You "condition" before you take an abrasive to it.
Wouldn't you use the buffer first to remove the beat paint, THEN lay down the #7 to moisturize and condition the fresh, exposed paint.
Kind of reminds me of priming a wall, then sanding it!
How exactly will this help? I don't doubt your technique. I'm very curious as to this intial step.
What will be your routine? Fine Cut Cleaner? DACP? Let me guess... stay tuned and ye shall be rewarded! Right?
As paint gets older, it becomes more porous, new paint is very impermeable, with normal wear and tear, paint becomes more permeable, that is instead of a solid, dense impregnable film, you end up with a less dense, more scared film.
(In the old days, they called paints... film formers because they were used to form a protective film over a surface that by itself would not hold up to exposure to the environment well, i.e. materials like wood and steel)
Anyway, so many times I have met people that when confronted with an older paint job that has oxidized, dull and dried-out and there knee-jerk reaction is to compound it.
>Time for a little story,<
A few years ago, I met a young man that recently purchased a Porsche 914 through a divorce settlement. The couple that owned this Porsche had everything mechanical rebuilt and the exterior repainted a light metallic blue. Then, because of the divorce, the car sat outside, uncovered and unprotected for at least 2 years in Southern Oregon. It was exposed to extreme weather conditions of rain, snow, direct sun light and both high and low humidity. The finish, being a single stage metallic, oxidized to the point of looking a milky light blue. You could not tell, that originally, it was a metallic paint job.
The young man who purchased the car, excited to spruce it up, took the car around to all of the better detail shops and body shops asking if the neglected finish could be restored.
This young man, (his name was Chris), told me that everyone he showed the car to, told him it was beyond repair and that he would have to have the car repainted. One person, a painter at a body shop, demonstrated to him that the paint was too far gone by applying a rubbing compound to a spot in the center of the rear deck lid. He rubbed the compound into the finish until he exposed the primer. At that point he stopped, to let Chris observe and to prove his point that the finish was beyond help.
Chris showed me the spot and told me the story behind his quest to restore the finish. I inspected the finish and asked him if I could have the car for a day. Chris said “Yes�.
First, I washed the car thoroughly to remove all loose surface dirt. Next, I rubbed the entire finish down with #7 Show Car Glaze to condition and moisturize the old weathered and neglected finish.
The oxidized metallic blue paint absorbed the conditioning oils used in the #7 Show Car Glaze, but it did little to improve the finish. I knew it wouldn’t, that wasn’t the purpose or the goal for the application.
I worked the #7 into the finish thoroughly, using a piece of terry cloth towel and a lot of elbow grease.
The next day, I machine cleaned the finish using Meguiar’s #2 Fine Cut Cleaner after that, I machine polished the finish with #9 Swirl Remover. After that, I reapplied a second coat of the #7 Show Car Glaze, (a product that has been around since the early 1930’s), and then after removing, topped with a coating of the #16 Professional Paste Wax.
Later, when Chris came home, I returned the car to him. He was ecstatic to see the results. The finish was clear, the metal flakes jumped out of the finish in the sun. Except for one spot on the deck lid which was a dark, almost black, gray, the rest of the finish looked brand new. Some would say… better than new.
Even though I never met the gentleman who rubbed through the delicate, dried-out metallic finish using an old fashioned compound, I have met many people like him. There answer to the problem is to abrade the finish, when what the finish really needs is the human element of care. This is an extra step that takes a little extra time.
>End of story<
Paints are made from resins, resins benefit from using the right products. When I restore a neglected finish, I first condition the paint before I work on it. Conditioning the paint makes the paint more workable and thus increases my chances for success, (versus exposing the primer).
When I buff out the Mustang, I will adopt the car as my own. Then, I will proceed to do what’s best for the finish, not my schedule. I will wash with a car wash solution formulated for cleaning paints, not dishes. I will first apply #7 Show Car Glaze to condition the paint and hopefully better prepare it for the products and procedures I am about to use on it.
That’s my approach for older, antique single stage finishes… it’s been working for me since I began detailing cars.
That's why I use #7 first. Does anyone have a proven technique for restoring older finishes with a different product? I'm open to new ideas.
Mike
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
AdamJoe said:
Because it a very oily product, thus the smearing, have you tried a premium microfiber?
I like to let it skin a little, is that what you mean?
That's the idea, apply the #7 Show Car Glaze, remove, then apply your choice of wax. If you are going to apply a wax over the #7 Show Car Glaze, then I wouldn't worry too much about removing each and every little smear, just get most of it off and then apply your wax.
If you find #7 difficult to work with, try the #81 Hand Polish.
Hope this helps...
Mike
Spilchy
New member
A HA! Now I understand. Nice story too :xyxthumbs
breakneckvtec
New member
Does SCG or 81 Hand polish offer minor swirl hiding ability? And I didnt quite catch whether or not you can apply NXT right over these or not. Thanks.
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
breakneckvtec said:
Yes, and yes...
Mike