Nu Finish?

pman626 said:
...my car was covered in dirt and dust again, stuck on pretty good. The vac blower couldn't get it off.



I read in a few places that nufinish doesn't attract dust. Is this true ?



Although i do find that some products attract dust more than others, the difference is very minor. Variables such as how you remove the product, how low is the humidity (dry air), etc play a larger role in dust attraction in the short term. After wax/sealant removal, i like to lightly go over the paint surface again with another mf towel that i have lightly spritzed with QD. The intention is not to apply QD or further remove LSP, but to eliminate or reduce static.



Back to the Nu Finish topic, the stuff works great on clear-coated wheels. IME, it greatly reduces brake dust from sticking.
 
I think attract dust isn't exactly the right term. Some LSPs accumulate dust more than others, but nothing but gravity and static are to blame. The more oily the LSP, the most dust accumulates, but as MCA stated, the difference is very minor in the end. I've done side by side comparisons, and even in strong pollen season, it's splitting hairs.
 
MCA said:
Back to the Nu Finish topic, the stuff works great on clear-coated wheels. IME, it greatly reduces brake dust from sticking.



that's what caught my attention.



if it could reduce brake dust, that suggests that regular dust would not stick as badly to the paint either ?





I ought to try to run a damp towel over the car after waxing. maybe that would help with the static.
 
Just tried my new bottle again, confirmed I get haziness and what appears to be light marring. At this point, this stuff is off my list for a decent OTC sealant. I don't see any reason to buy it when you can get DG105 or DG501 for a few dollars more.
 
i applied the paste version this past week, and it is somewhat tricky to apply. In hot weather, you can't wait for it to dry to a haze, otherwise it cakes up and it takes more work to buff out, and you may risk scratching your paint that way, though I didn't have scratching issues. Also, you may even get nufinish caked onto your microfiber towel, and that might cause marring. You always have to keep the applicator damp and apply only a superthin layer.



I have a dark charcoal metallic paint, and the only method that worked was to wipe on and wipe off within seconds.

With this method, I get no marring, hazing, or anything.



What may look like marring is most likely just dried nufinish that you didn't buff out in time. I've seen it leave streaks, that's why I use the quick wipe on/off method. To remove streaks, you just wipe on a tiny bit of nufinish and wipe off immediately.





Water beads pretty good. In comparison, the Meguiars gold class wax I put on just a couple weeks ago is already pretty much gone. It just doesn't last with my car parked outside 24/7.

I did the left side of the trunk lid with meguiars, and the right side with nufinish. you can really see how the nufinish repels the water.



the shine is good enough. I can't really tell the difference between meguiars otc carnuaba and the nufinish on my trunk.

If it still beads water next month, it will have saved me a lot of tiring waxing work.

On a dark car, nufinish is less forgiving than wax. But it's a trade-off I'm willing to make if it actually lasts half a year.
 
Dan said:
I don't see any reason to buy it when you can get DG105 or DG501 for a few dollars more.



Agreed. No reason to use it when there are so many outstanding products for similar $$$.
 
pman626 said:
What may look like marring is most likely just dried nufinish that you didn't buff out in time. I've seen it leave streaks, that's why I use the quick wipe on/off method. To remove streaks, you just wipe on a tiny bit of nufinish and wipe off immediately.



I'm pretty sure what I saw was marring. I had perfectly polished the surface with Optimum Polish, it looked great. Then I had genuine micromarring after applying the nufinish. I probably wouldn't have noticed if the paint wasn't well polished, but the fact is, it hazed up the finish.
 
A friend of mine just bough a beater car, a black 1992 Lincoln Town Car, that was in need of a little clean up. He washed and waxed it with NuFinish, and it came out very good. Nice gloss , and made it look like a different car.
 
Dan said:
I'm pretty sure what I saw was marring. I had perfectly polished the surface with Optimum Polish, it looked great. Then I had genuine micromarring after applying the nufinish. I probably wouldn't have noticed if the paint wasn't well polished, but the fact is, it hazed up the finish.





maybe you just got a bad bottle. who knows.



I'm not a nufinish fanboy, but I'm pretty sure my can of paste isn't a bottle of rocks, and there definitely wasn't any hazing for me at least.





The only other sealant I have is Klasse aio.

I would try duragloss 101 if it were sold locally, but at $19 for 16oz, it's way more expensive than this cheap nufinish.
 
pman626 said:
maybe you just got a bad bottle. who knows.



I'm not a nufinish fanboy, but I'm pretty sure my can of paste isn't a bottle of rocks, and there definitely wasn't any hazing for me at least.





The only other sealant I have is Klasse aio.

I would try duragloss 101 if it were sold locally, but at $19 for 16oz, it's way more expensive than this cheap nufinish.



Yeah, my paste seems fine, and the last bottle that was the 25% more free were fine. This last bottle from Walmart was just like the stuff from 5-10 years ago, even though the bottle looked brand new.



The thing with DG101 is it goes at least twice as far as the same amount of NuFinish. I use a lot more NuFinish to do a car than any other sealant, I'd say about 1oz for a whole car where others I can get by with 1/4-1/2oz. DG501 is really what you should try if you are thinking about an AIO.
 
pman626 said:
I would try duragloss 101 if it were sold locally, but at $19 for 16oz, it's way more expensive than this cheap nufinish.



Usually Carquest stocks DG products and NAPAs will order it for you with next day delivery to the store. Their website list others that stock DG products or if you order direct it is a fixed $4.95 shipping no matter how much you order. As Dan mentioned if you want a AIO then try DG 501 if just a sealant (with light cleaning ability) 105 is their best performer durability wise. 105 topped with Aquawax has a great look.



Duragloss
 
Bunky said:
Nu Finish is a good way to spend as little as possible. For a few dollars more, you can get something that probably smells a lot better, easier to apply, does not stain trim, and probably less concerned about lasting a year.



Does Duragloss 101 or 105 not stain trim? What other really good AIOs are there that don't need to be topped and don't stain trim?
 
None of the Duragloss liquids stain regular trim. The king of AIOs is ZAIO, there is nothing that beats it in durability, it will outlast just about any other sealant. Its also a great cleaner and polish. True AIO by all counts, not some fancy Sealant with a cleaner to ensure bonding.
 
Dan said:
None of the Duragloss liquids stain regular trim. The king of AIOs is ZAIO, there is nothing that beats it in durability, it will outlast just about any other sealant. Its also a great cleaner and polish. True AIO by all counts, not some fancy Sealant with a cleaner to ensure bonding.
to make quick jobs you can use a non-staining AIO without taping off trim. Just run the pad to the edge and don't worry about it?
 
lawrencea said:
A friend of mine just bough a beater car, a black 1992 Lincoln Town Car, that was in need of a little clean up. He washed and waxed it with NuFinish, and it came out very good. Nice gloss , and made it look like a different car.

Exactly, not everyone is looking for absolute perfection of the finish.

They just wish to remove minor flaws, put on some protection that lasts more than a couple of months and make the vehicle have a nice shine from a few feet away.

Not everyone is totally anal about their vehicle's finish.

A little quick trick for the trim staining issue is to wipe on some tire or interior dressing on the trim before applying the Nu-Finish and have a bottle of rubbing alcohol handy, so as one observes they got some of the Nu Finish product on that trim, wipe it off with the alcohol before it cures out.

Grumpy
 
dfoxengr said:
to make quick jobs you can use a non-staining AIO without taping off trim. Just run the pad to the edge and don't worry about it?



Yeah, but be a little careful which AIO you use for that. I like KAIO on the black plastic parts of the A8's sideview mirrors, but using ZAIO on the same surfaces hazed it up something awful (HUGE PIA to fix!)...the seemingly mild abrasives in the ZAIO simply hazed the plastic up like I never expected (glad I did a test-spot, that was bad enough).
 
dfoxengr said:
But KAIO still needs to be topped is what most people say.



Eh, I myself would top *any* AIO, but that's just me. I took Dan's advice and tried ZAIO untopped...worked a lot better than I'd expected, but I'm still happier with a FK1000P topper.



With KAIO on a "lots of trim" vehicle, I'd just do a quickie topper with Collinite 845. It'd pretty much be a case of "how fast can you move around the car?" If I really need to, I can do an 845 topper on most any vehicle in a few minutes. 845 over KAIO is pretty much foolproof, even easier than 845 on bare paint.
 
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