Not agressive enough!

V

vroddad

New member
Ok, I'm getting a little fed up. I've gone from "by hand" to a PC; from Meg. #9 to FI2 to FCRC; from griot's orange to CMA yellow and nothing is strong enough to take out anything more than swirls!



I just did my friend's black protege ES 2.0 last night. A PC on 6 w/ 3M FCRC on a CMA yellow pad for 10 minutes did not even touch any of the tiny scratches on his car (abused)!



How does one even seriously combat anything worse than a swirl? (I removed all his swirls; now his scratches are lonely :rolleyes: )



Rotory?

Woolpad?

TW Compound?

Wet sanding?
 
Most of those particular swirl removing products you mentioned are light abrasives, meaning they really won't touch heavy swirling/scratching or a badly neglected or damaged finish. I'd suggest you try a Fine Cut Compound again with a cutting pad. Compounds range from light to heavy, and I guarantee that one within that range will restore the finish you describe. I've had good sucess with 3M FCC by hand, even though it's a major PITA! With a buffer, it'd be much quicker and easier, unfortunately I didn't have my buffer at the time. Both Meguiar's and 3M make a range of compounds to restore anything from light damage to heavy severe damage. So, I'd recommend you start with the least aggressive compound first with a cutting pad or polishing pad and if that's not working, try the next aggressive. Meguiar's #9 and 3M light swirl removers have, IMO, big limitations on significant swirl or scratch removal. That's why there are even more aggressive products to meet the needs of bigger resto jobs... I'm surprised the FCC didn't do the trick, but you could always try something heavier. The Meguiar's Heavy Cut Compound is nothing short of liquid sandpaper! It's very gritty to the touch and will quickly level any surface. But, such a product can also cause more harm than good if used improperly. Also, be sure to clean everything up with a few coats of swirl remover afterwards.



Keep in mind too that if the scratches are too deep, you really can't do much for them. The best you can hope for would be a decent reduction in their appearance. If your fingernail catches in some of the scratches, they are probably beyond normal repair with any kind of polish, without the use of heavier buffers or complete repairs.





HTH!





:)
 
For major jobs you will likely need a rotary buffer, random orbitals don't build up enough heat to tackle serious surface defects. First the finish would need to be "leveled". This would involve using a compound and cutting pad, either wool blend clearcoat cutting pad or a foam cutter. Then the surface will need to be polished, using a series machine polishes and foam polishing pads. Then in some cases, mostly dark color cars, a finer polish used with a foam polishing pad and a random orbital buffer might be needed as well. As you can see, this can be a very long process.



Rotary's are not for beginners, if you don't have experience using one I would not try this process on your own.
 
I just think I need some stronger product and a woolpad. Any suggestions on a stronger product? (Maybe Meg. Medium Cut)



I might also try some TW rubbing comp. by hand?
 
A great product would be 3m perfect III compound. This should work fine for what you need it for. It can be used with a pc but works best with a rotary. If you never used a rotary before i suggest you stay with the pc when using this product. Not sure what else you are trying to get off the paint, but before you use the 3m, you may want to try clay magic. This is not a compound but a paint cleaner. It will remove over spray, heavy bird stains, water stains, tar, etc...

NYD
 
Compounds range from light to heavy, and I guarantee that one within that range will restore the finish you describe
Click to expand...



I have a situation similar to the thread author...The M3's finish is in really excellent shape...Very shiny, smooth, and very well kept. But...on the hood, there are a few random clear coat layer scratches.



We know that swirls are NOT just the light circular scratches in the clear, but have become synonomous with any clear coat layer scratches, also known as micro-marring....The few I have are NOT deep enough to get a finger nail caught in. Therefore, theoretically, they should be removable with the right pad, product, and applicator. Right?



In yesterday's heat, I tried some 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound, and, aside from rounding some edges, the scratches are still visible in a certain kind of indoor lighting...In the sunlight, you cant see any of them.



My next step is to get out my PC, apply the same 3m FCRC to a polishing pad, and try again. If that doesnt work, I'll apply the same product but to a Cutting pad with the PC. If that doesnt work, I'll whip out my rotary, and repeat the above.



One of these is BOUND to get these out, wouldnt you say?



But, until the weather cools off, Im going to let it be...You need to attack these things with energy and enthusiasm....And, in this weather, the best intentions quickly turn to mush, and you find yourself looking for shortcuts, which is not a good idea in this type of endeavor...So, Im taking the stand that discretion is the better part of valor, and wait for more conducive weather before attacking this.



Any other suggestions?
 
I'm in your situation except I don't have a rotary ready. I'm thinking of something stronger than 3M FCRC... perhaps something that removes marks but leaves a haze (that needs something finer to remove).
 
I'm in your situation except I don't have a rotary ready. I'm thinking of something stronger than 3M FCRC... perhaps something that removes marks but leaves a haze (that needs something finer to remove).
Click to expand...



I thought the FCRC was going to be this product...but apparently, the reason it doesnt haze or scratch much is because of its relative mild strength. I think Meguiars Fine cut cleaner may be a bit more aggressive...Also, try applying with wool, or a foam cutting pad next...I once used the meguiars FCC with a cutting foam pad, and a rotary, and it definitely left some swirls, while getting out the damage it was intended for, but required some SMR to take care of its own hazing....I think this might be what your after...



BTW, if price has kept you away from rotaries, since I wont be using mine often, I got a 2 speed Wen unit for like 50 bucks...its speeds are 1100 and 1300 rpms which is ideal for this applcation...Harbor fReight had a sale not long ago for an even better unit; a variable speed unit by Chicago, I believe, for only like 40 bucks or something like that. I think this is idea for those cases where the PC just wont cut it...But first, go to the cutting pad, or the wool pad...Most of the time, they will do the job for you , and you wont need the rotary.
 
Use caution with the more aggressive products.

More aggressive = more abrasive

More abrasive = more paint is being removed

More paint removed can = no more clear coat

Keep in mind that you are removing paint when you use the more aggressive products. It is sometimes a very fine line between shiny paint and no paint.

Now how would I know that?



Charles:D
 
I think I'll try a wool pad with the PC first... my dad does have a right angle grinder that I may be able to make a rotary out of.
 
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