No beading during wash? Is this normal?

wannafbody said:
Some soaps have ingredients that cause a sheeting action to reduce waterspotting.
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Yeah, the Armor All wash seemed to do that in a pretty big way. Not sure I'd *want* that on my paint, being a beading-guy (yeah, I know..).
 
Hey Accum. Didn't you used to use Meg's 62 wash for a while. When it comes to Goldclass which we will rank as 1 for being the bare minimum in the Accumulator acceptable scale and Griot's Grarage Wash being a 10 for being Accumulator's two thumbs up, where would #62 fall in this ranking.
 
Bert said:
Hey Accum. Didn't you used to use Meg's 62 wash for a while. When it comes to Goldclass which we will rank as 1 for being the bare minimum in the Accumulator acceptable scale and Griot's Grarage Wash being a 10 for being Accumulator's two thumbs up, where would #62 fall in this ranking.
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Right about the #62, good memory!



On that scale I'd put the #62 around 5-7. But note that is is based on my recollection from *YEARS* ago and I haven't used my #62 for anything but wheels/wells for ages. I don't think I've ever even used it with the foamgun!



I'd *GUESS* (and believe me, that's all this is..) that for the money Optimum, and probably DuraGloss too, would be better choices. #62 caught my fancy because it was almost as good as Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo but was a *WHOLE LOT* gentler on my LSP..plus I could get gallons of #62 fairly cheap at the time.



Note that I'm kinda backing off my previously all-positive take on the #62...but it's sure not bad stuff by a long shot.
 
Another Duragloss fan here as well. I bought 3 bottles of the stuff and us it over all others. It's not very expensive and does a great job...
 
GS4_Fiend said:
KSG is claims it's detergent proof... I don't think it could be stripped that easily with just regular washes..
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Right, but it does last longer when washed with certain shampoos (e.g., Griot's) than it does when washed with others (e.g., BlackFire). Heh heh Collinite 476S claims to be "detergent proof" too, and eh, it's all a matter of degree.
 
i guess i am now experiencing the same thing. my truck was waxed with collinite 845 about 4-5 weeks ago and it's been washed....um.... 3-4 times in that period

and after the wash, the roof and hood have no beading and no real sheeting either.

I use the Meg's GC wash/shampoo.
 
sulla said:
How about the meguiars hyperwash...Is this a good shampoo ? I got a good offer for a gallon...
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Let me first qualify that I have never used it but, it has received some fairly positive feedback on this board.
 
evojoey said:
Anyone care to give an opinion on Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss....
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CGCWG cleans REALLY well and leave a nice gloss on the paint but I don't know how gentle it is on LSP's. I would need to use it some more to say with confidence. I know it was designed to remove LSP's at high concentrations (2 ounces per gallon I believe) and they CG says at the wash ratio (1/2 ounce pre gallon I believe) it is gentle on LSP's but I don't know.
 
Gav, Megs GC has conditioners in it. They probably leave some type of film behind. Clean it with a QD and see if the beading returns.
 
i will give it a shot...when i foam my camaro, rinse and dry with a leaf blower i go over the car with QD...but the camaro has a coat of wolfgang sealant.
 
gav'spurplez said:
i guess i am now experiencing the same thing. my truck was waxed with collinite 845 about 4-5 weeks ago and it's been washed....um.... 3-4 times in that period

and after the wash, the roof and hood have no beading and no real sheeting either.

I use the Meg's GC wash/shampoo.
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I've noticed that exact thing with 845 with all different brands of washes. Odd, because I'd been a long-time user of 845

with no problems. All the sudden, I start to notice during washes that the hood and roof of my truck are flat

while the sides are still beading like crazy.

My guess was that direct heat, from both the Sun and the engine, was quickly breaking down the protection.

That combined with heavier accumulation of road contaminants and random debris that settles on the vertical surfaces

was causing premature failure. But, then, that should be true of any wax or sealant.

I've since switched to 476s and have gotten better wear.....plus, the look of 476s on my white truck is truly incredible.

REALLY impressed with it.
 
I haven't tried 476 on black yet, but my bet is that it would still look great.

For $11 a tin, maybe give it a shot.

Or let us know how the layering works with the 845.



....always interested in learning something.
 
Some sorta-random thoughts follow:



- Sometimes certain conditions make Collinite die off really fast for some reason, never did figure it out

- I find that layering/doing multiple applicaions of 845 makes for greatly improved durability

- I really like doing a 845/476S/845 "sandwich" and then just refreshing the 845 now and then

- 476S looks fine on anything as long as you aren't after "Autopian"-type effects that nobody else will notice anyhow
 
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